Site navigation

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Summary

Apart from the classic line of 'Soolaimon' most of the climbs here follow "fissures of varying sizes, cracks, vicious off-widths and deep chimneys", to quote the previous guide.

©

Description

Trojan Wall is the largest area on the Ridge. Comprising of a 60+ meter main wall, and a number of smaller walls and boulders

©

Approach

Trojan Wall is a further 5-10 minutes walk along from 'Mushroom Rock' i.e. about 20 minutes walk from the 'Tower Rocks' carpark.

The faint track is on the left as you skirt a bouldery knoll, and is marked by a small cairn opposite a 2.5m high burnt out stump.

Walk down the shallow gully,following the faint path and tending right passing under the cliffs. The climbs at the far end can be reached by scrambling down from 'Sentinel Rocks'.

©

History

View historical timeline

After an obscure, precocious effort by Gordon Brysland in 1982, the area was left in peace until just before the first edition of this guide when a flurry of good face routes were added. The whole cliff is fairly shady and is best climbed on during the summer months. The climbs are described from right to left starting in the approach gully.

©

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

The miniscule, clean crack facing 'Trojan Wall', on the knoll 20 metres before the descent gully. Similar to 'California Dreaming'.

FA: Phil Georgeff & Mike Law-Smith, 1987

A short slab, brushed into submission and now reclaimed by moss, on a boulder in the descent gully to 'Trojan Wall'. Two bolts, bolt belay.

FA: Alan Caldwell, Elle Locarini & Simon Carter, 1990

Start right of 'Aswan' below a prominent curving overlap crack.

  1. 8 metres - Climb the crack to a ledge.

  2. 16 metres - Continue up the crack.

FA: Peter Cocker & Olaf Moon, 1975

The obvious chimney above the descent track, about 50 metres from the bottom (start marked).

  1. 20 metres - Climb the chimney until able to move into a crack on the left. Up to a grassy ledge.

  2. 15 metres - Back to the chimney to finish.

FA: Mike Stone & Olaf Moon, 1975

Scramble up to a wide, mossy chimney above and right from 'Snow Queen'.

  1. 20 metres - Up the sloping chimney into a cave.

  2. 20 metres - From within the extensive cave system, scramble out through a roof hole using a vertical flake, or more easily to the right.

  3. 20 metres - Cross the small courtyard and finish up a corner chimney.

FA: A. Sternbeck, P.Mcrae (alt.), John Armstrong (#1 & 2), 1973

The wall with one high bolt, hidden on the eastern side of the boulder which forms the right wall of the final 'Hector's Staircase' chimney.

FA: Gordon Brysland & John Smart, 1982

The obvious off-width splitting the wall just left of the start of 'Hector's Staircase'.

FA: John Smart, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 1975

The chimney five metres right of the main wall. Up over chockstones, eventually traversing out under boulders to a good ledge.

FA: Mike Law & Lincoln Hall, 1974

Bolted by Mike Peck back in the day, and awaiting new generation strong-man. Climbs the pillar 2m right of Soolaiman, past 6 or so bolts.

The hardest route around for a while and the most impressive line on the ridge. Freed by Henry Barber on his whirlwind Australian visit. The right-hand of the three lines on the main wall, finishing through the large overhang.

  1. 30 metres - climb the corner and crack to a semi-hanging double bolt belay beneath the roof (worth doing in its own right as a grade 20 - rap off).

  2. 20 metres - Crux. Try and souvenir a fixed nut from the old trad rap station. Out through the roof and up to a tree belay.

  3. 20 metres - Finish up a chimney on the left.

FA: Norm Booth, Ray Lassman & Lincoln Hall (alt.), 1974

FFA: Henry Barber, 1975

Good climbing on the wall left of Soolaimon. From the big boulder leaning against the central off-width, climb up and right under three bolts then up the scoop past another bolt Single bolt belay under the roof, or traverse right to the double bolt belay on Soolaimon.

FA: Mike Peck, Sue Rauchfuss & John Churchill, 1988

The central off-width.

  1. 35m (23).

  2. 15m (15) (loose block at top of pitch 2).

FFA: B. Aikman & G. Butler (Alt), Mar 2014

Hideous, don't say you weren't warned. Start in the cave, graunching up the chock filled chimney to a leftwards weakness. Follow this to under an overlap and step left around an arete to a ledge.

FA: Lincoln Hall

The left-hand of the main wide lines. Start in a cave at the foot of a chimney.

  1. 25 metres - Climb the chimney, with an awkward start, to a large ledge.

  2. 25 metres - On up the chimney.

FA: John Smart, Ian Thomas & Norm Booth, 1975

Start at the fallen block eight metres left and downhill from 'Rats, Bats and Witches' Hats'. Climb the thin arete past three bolts to the top. Belay under the block

FA: Andrew Bull, Craig Kenywell, Tony Barten & Mike Peck, 1989

The following climbs are accessed by following the path from Crunchy Granola and scrambling upwards to the 'Back Wall'.

The crack system around the corner 25 metres down from 'Beauborg', with a tricky start. Belay under the roof and scramble off left.

FA: Adam Blizzard & Tallis Didcott, 1988

Excellent climbing up the steep black wall and scoop right of 'Worm's Tunnel', scary with three poorly positioned bolts. Take some pieces for a belay; to get off follow the corridor back to exit via 'Worm's Tunnel'.

FA: Adam Blizzard & Neil Montgomery, 1988

Another 'must' for troglodytes, but also quite a fun route. Start (marked) some 10 metres up the very deep chimney at the right end of the 'Back Wall', where it turns sharply right. Climb the two cracks in the corner and onto the large chockstone. Straight up, passing the chockstones on their left, to exit through the hidden 'Worm's Tunnel'.

FA: Charles Massey & Keith Bell, 1975

Doppler shifts when you come screaming off. Start at the thin crack in the wall five metres right of 'The Morrigan'. Climb the crack and chimney until able to pull up left onto a good ledge. Follow the steep slab past three bolts (crux after the second) to a good ledge under the overhang. Scrabble through the cave to finish.

FA: Neil Montgomery & Adam Blizzard, 1989

Start at the crack five metres left of the chimney leading to 'Worm's Tunnel'.

  1. 35 metres - Up the crack to a hanging belay where it becomes blind.

  2. 15 metres - Continue up until it peters out, then right to below the overhang and into a chimney.

  3. 15 metres - Climb the chimney and through the overhang.

FA: Peter Cocker & John Finnigan (Alt.), 1974

"Recommended for those who enjoy a good thrutch". Need we say more? Start left of 'The Morrigan'.

  1. 10 metres - Up the crack, past the tree on its left.

  2. 25 metres - Climb the tapering chimney to a ledge.

FA: Tony Wood & Ian Taylor (alt.), 1973

Start in a corner 70 metres left of 'Worm's Tunnel'.

  1. 10 metres - A hard first move, then scramble up the chimney to beneath the chockstone.

  2. 20 metres - Up the chimney to belay in the corner.

  3. 20 metres - Follow the crack traversing left across the slab.

  4. 15 metres - Climb up the textured slab and into the cave above. The easiest exit is left, towards the valley

FA: Peter Cocker, A. Steinbeck (alt) & Paul McRae, 1973

Start from the first belay on Labyrinth.

  1. 14 metres - walk in at the base of the chimney on the e right, and up this past several chockstones

  2. 6 metres - Up the short chimney to finish.

FA: Peter Cocker, John Finnigan & Richard Curtis (solo), 1975

Wanders into the cliff. Start 20 meters left of Labyrinth in a small recess.

  1. 25 metres - Climb a slanting crack for five metres, then move right (past a shrub) along a ledge to a corner (on Labyrinth).

  2. 8 metres - Climb the corner to the shrub, then up any of the cracks to the ledge above.

  3. 30 metres (unroped) - First scramble through to a flat floored chimney, then head left through the squeeze for about 30m past several corners.

  4. a) 15 meters - When you see a chockstone at 4 meters, chimney up and over it, then up the lake/slab directly in front of you.

    b) 12 metres - Continue out the final squeeze and double back at a slightly higher level and head up the flake/slab above the chimney

FA: Mike Todd, Peter Cocker & Tony Wood (var.), 1974

Disjointed. Start as for 'Split the Difference'.

  1. 10 metres - Up the slanting crack to a good stance.

  2. 8 metres - Up the crack and rightwards up to a ledge near third stance on Labyrinth

  3. 7 metres - Reach up and traverse the leftwards slanting flake to the rock pile labyrinth emerges from

  4. 10 metres - walk a few meters and climb the easy chimney between a few of those boulders. Walk back 10 meters to a cleft on the right.

  5. 10 meters - Ascend the pinnacle using the crack on the right to a slab.

FA: Ian Taylor, Chris Larque & Tony Wood (var.), 1974

Adds a great left leaning hand crack, and a bombay chimney to the best pitches of Dipthong. (or it could be the original if you take the route description with a lot of salt) Start 3 meters left of Dipthong at a slanted crack or chimeny

  1. 10m, climb the dirty crack on the right or the chimney to a stance on a dirt ledge

  2. 15m, climb the left leaning hand crack out to the arete before pulling back right and into the Bombay chimney to emerge on the ledge below Diphong's third pitch.

  3. Finish up the fun pitches of Diphong

Set by Dane Evans

Good climbing; well to the left of Split the Difference is an obvious jam crack with a desperate roof start.

  1. 18 metres - Crux. Climb the crack until it peters out at a ledge.

  2. 17 metres - Move right and climb the bomb-bay chimney and cracks to the top.

FA: Peter Mills & Lincoln Hall, 1976

Cleaning up the remnants. Actually it offers some good, varied climbing. start just left and up from 'Paper Tiger' at a thin crack. Climb the crack and slab on its left, traverse right and layback up the steepening crack. Hand traverse left to belay atop the 'Nursery Chimney' pinnacle.

FA: John Churchill & Mike Peck, 1988

Start as for Emu Parade on edge of large undercut overlap. A tricky start gains the slab. Head up the easy unprotected slab for 10m and arrange protection in the roof flake with a long runner. Head up a few metres and follow the right edge of the unprotected arête to the horizontal break at 30m. A 0.5 and 1 cam do the trick here. Traverse right a few metres and use 3 cam for pro around the corner. Jam your way up the undercut slab.

FA: Dave Cameron & Hatice Sitki, 2004

The chimney in the right-hand wall of the recess left of 'Paper Tiger'.

FA: Lincoln Hall & R. Pickering, 1973

At the left-hand end of the line of slabby boulders below the 'Back Wall'. The bent, easy angled chimney.

FA: Lincoln Hall & R. Pickering (solo), 1973

The chimney at the back of the cave above 'Nursery Chimney'. Climb straight up, with a rather extreme bridging start, to finish through the slot.

The gulley just right of the Erstwhile Emus cave provides the easiest scramble up to 'Sentinel Rocks' from here.

FA: John Churchill & Ken Luck, 1989

A model route? About 15 metres right of Erstwhile Emus, a groove runs up a boulder. Layback up the groove and climb the slab above past two bolts.

FA: Mike Peck & John Churchill, 1988

Activity

Check out what is happening in Trojan Wall.