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Description

Further down the ridge are two much larder outcrops bordering 'The Courtyard' which is below the huge balanced boulder. The northern-most outcrop is surrounded by a large block with a prominent square, orange face visible from the Orroral Ridge.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © ANU Moutaineering Club (Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route

The following routes are accessed from "The Courtyard". duck through the arch under the hanging boulder, and push through the scrub to a large gently sloping rock platform.

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1
24 The Taming of the Shrew Mixed 30m, 2

Start below the white arete at the bottom left hand corner of The Courtyard, just right of the big off-width (20 metres left of 'Black Thursday'.

  1. 12 metres (24) - Up the white slab and arete past two bolts. Belay below the overlap.

  2. 18 metres (19) - Move right around the overlap then back left and up to the crack. Follow this to the top, moving right when it thins out.

FA: Mike Peck, Simon Carter (alt.) & John Churchill, 1988

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2
17 ★ Black Thursday Trad 15m

The leftwards sweeping diagonal line on The Courtyard's left wall. Excellent varied climbing with laybacks, underclings, jamming and face moves.

FA: John Finnigan, Admando Corvini & Will Steffen, 1983

3
17 While my Kleenex Gently Waits Trad 8m

A very short finger crack directly below The Courtyard. Start one metre left of a large detached flake.

Best access from Taming

FA: Craig Kentwell & Adam Blizzard, 1987

4
18 Warning Trad 10m

Start five metres right. Climb easily up the large flake, then delicately up the incipient crack to finish.

FA: Adam Blizzard & Craig Kentwell, 1987

The other routes are scattered around the outcrop. The map is the easiest way to find them.

5
14 Handjob Trad 10m

A wanky little route up the obscure, leaning corner on the southern side.

FA: Matthew Jones & John Churchill, 1987

6
18 Smee's Knees Trad 12m

In a gully below the huge balanced boulder, next to a big dead tree. Easily up to a ledge and eagle's nest, then up the short bulging fist crack.

FA: Ken Luck & Matthew Jones, 1987

7
14 Diehard Trad 12m

Up the chimney on the easy side of the big block, then pull up on the boulder on the left.

FA: John Finnigan, Will Steffen & Peter Cocker, 1983

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8
23 Wart Face Sport 15m, 4

Start on the east (valley) side of the main tor. Up the wall past four bolts to the wart (knob). Continue up the slab to the rap chain and bolts.

FA: Mike Peck, 1989

9
21 Mushroom Effect Mixed 25m, 4

Bolts just kept appearing. Start below the white slab about four metres left of 'Steffen's Lesson'. Climb the slab past three bolts to a break. Move right a metre to a bolt then make a long reach for the next break. Move left and up the short slab to the top.

FA: Mike Peck & Craig Kentwell, 1987

10
16 Steffen's Lesson Trad 20m

The thinning dirty groove in the white slab well below and right of the big tor, with one hardish move to finish (the grade has been debated).

FA: John Finnigan, Will Steffen & Admando Corvini, 1983

11
17 Rope Boy's Revenge Trad 9m

Start about 15 metres right of the top of 'Mushroom Effect'. Use any available vegetation to get to a horizontal break at three metres, then up the left fist crack.

FA: Craig Kentwell, 1987

12
24 Crater Face Sport 15m, 4

The black pocketed wall on the north side of the main tor. Climb the wall past four bolts moving right and up a slab to finish. Rap chain and bolts at the top of the boulder.

FA: Tony Barten & Andrew Bull, 1989

13
19 Smee Goes to Hospital Trad 5m

The left hand of two cracks opposite 'Crater Face' with an undercut start.

FA: Ken Luck & Adam Blizzard, 1988

Activity

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