Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
19 Beckoning Horizon
1 19
2 14
3 12
4 13
5 15
6 11

Starts at the left-hand end of the overlap that forms the roof to the right of Badile.

  1. 15m Gain the overlap and traverse right on underclings and jams, hanging stance at base of corner

  2. 20m Climb corner system to belay

  3. 50m Climb diagonally right following flake then climb straight up and over small overlap to small ledge

  4. 50m Traverse 5 m right and climb steep black slabs to the huge scimitar shaped fissure and climb this to its right hand end

  5. 50m Climb the right hand of the two corner systems and finish over the overhang.

  6. Scramble to top. Can finish as Badile up unprotected ramp to summit ridge.

FA: M. Moore & M. Haffner, 1991

Trad 190m, 6 Peak Charles
14 Office Workers Rule the World

Climb starts from the sloping edge above and to the left of the start of Badile.

  1. 50m Traverse right for a couple of moves onto the buttress. Climb straight up to the ledge.

  2. 40m (14 - crux). Climb face right of corner to meet at its top. Traverse left along horizontal break until it is easy to move up to the right leaning overlap. Up this to belay after 15m.

  3. 35m (13) Up the overlap for 5 metres and then step left to the wall. Climb up to thin vegetated crack that widens and is followed to blocks. A nice pitch.

  4. 25m Continue up crack.

  5. Easy climbing right of Last Tango in Widgiemooltha.

FA: S. Harris & B. Dowrick, 1994

Trad 150m, 5 Peak Charles
18 Juluka
1 15 30m
2 18 30m
3 15 50m

Situated just to the right of the cave-like gully that separates the Central Gully from the Northern Buttress. There are some huge overlaps and cracks here, but unfortunately the overall angle is very low. This climb takes the left hand overlap where the rock is steepest. Start in the gully immediately below the waterfall (2nd abseil pitch for rappel descent route).

  1. 30m (15) Climb the diagonal crack and slabs to belay on a small ledge beside and left of the huge overhang.

  2. 30m (18) Move up and traverse towards the right under the next overhang in a superb position. Move around corner to gain crack and slabs which leads to a belay ledge beneath a shallow corner.

  3. 50m (15) Climb the corner and slabs which eventually leads to the summit terraces.

FA: M. Moore & M. Haffner, 1990

Trad 110m, 3 Peak Charles
19 Spartacus
1 19 35m
2 17 10m

The very obvious right-facing test piece corner on the right side of Spartacus Flake. A classic climb. It loses stars and you lose bits of flesh if you attempt to offwidth the top rather than climb the face.

  1. 35m (19R) The climb heads up the corner and moves onto face to avoid the off-width crack. The face climbing is a bit run out and exciting. Back into corner and to vegetated ledge and trad belay. The retrofitted double rings are misplaced (too close to sharp edge) and unusable if you value your rope.

  2. 10m (17) An unpleasant thrutch through vegetation and up another manky corner to the top of flake and loweroffs: choose between the old slings and more badly placed (high drag) retro ring bolts. Good grief.

FA: P. McKenzie & R. Master

Trad 45m, 2 Peak Charles
11 Badile

A favourite classic. At the foot of the face is a distinct long overlap across a black slab (Beckoning Horizon), start to the left.

  1. 40m The layback crack leads to a platform and wall. Up wall two metres to wide ramp to right. From ramp, move onto crack leading to centre of face. At top of crack put in protection and traverse right across face to platform and belay.

  2. 30m Above belay, up crack to small roof. Follow crack to thread belay and platform.

  3. 35m Follow large flakes till they run out and traverse left around corner into long open corner. Up to platform scoops, poor belay.

  4. 20m Walk right along easy line of weakness to large gangway across face, belay at left end (peg).

  5. 35m Move left and take wall direct to corner of great overhang and belay at top of rock pile.

  6. 40m Climb wall a metre or two from the corner until under the headwall.

  7. 30m Up crack, not chimney, above belay to easy ground. Straight up left to belay at foot of water crack.

  8. 40m Straight up water cracks.

  9. 15m Up steep ramp through headwall onto summit ridge.

FA: M. Adams & B. Adams, 1987

Trad 290m, 9 Peak Charles
18 Quoll Spotting

Lovely face climbing just left of The Antechinus. Start up the first two bolts of The Antechinus then make a glamorous traverse left on ideal jugs. Grab the quoll by the tail and make a final step up and left with finesse. Cruise up the upper face on crimps, incut flakes and foot jugs. Trends right after the last bolt and shares the lower off on The Antechinus.

FA: Neil Gledhill & Kate Swain, 16 Apr 2022

Sport 30m, 10 Peak Charles
13 Last Tango in Widgiemooltha

Start in the gully right of Juluka below Guano Roof.

  1. 42m Up to belay at base of guano-covered corner below Guano Roof.

  2. 35m Descend slightly and traverse right to arete. Climb up to right to belay in large cave.

  3. 40m Traverse right under overhang and follow corner to gully. Move right to arete and up belay flake on right.

  4. 40m Up a slab to top.

FA: R. Rathbone & M. Smith

Trad 160m, 4 Peak Charles
19 The Antechinus

A fine route. Enjoyable and memorable face climbing on "gold class" rock. 3 pitches.

  1. 30m (19), 10 bolts. Starts approx 15m right of Spartacus (10m past LCIHS) at the prominent orange streak which is clearly visible from camp. Boulder passed the first bolt and immerse yourself in a glorious maze of yellow slopers and crimps. Emerge onto the black wall above and enjoy the romp to the belay on incut jugs and pockets. A splendid pitch of rock climbing. Has rings at 30m so you can lower/rap making for an outstanding 1-pitch route. Watch you rope length on the way down.

  2. 30m (12) Trad, finger sized wires and cams. From the belay gain the thin crack and climb up past a ledge to another easy crack. Up this and run it out as the angle eases to the base of a large flake, slightly right. Trad belay at base of flake.

  3. 30m, (10) Trad to DBB. Can be linked with P2. Up the wall left of the shallow gulley and huge flake. Continue up on slabs using bomber, but spaced wires and finger sized cams. DBB up high on the "prow" of the slab.

FA: Neil Gledhill & Katherine Swain, 15 Apr 2021

Mixed trad 90m, 3, 10 Peak Charles
26 Golden Shower

Climb straight up slab to first First bolt and then stay right of bolts until delicate traverse at 6th bolt that leads to a powerful finish. Ends on a victory jug at the first Anchors. The extension is an open project. It gets the name from a stream of water that came down on Henry at subset when the wall is in golden light.

FA: Henry McNamee, 16 Apr 2022

Sport 20m, 8 Peak Charles
24 Mr Pharmacist

Mick describes this as one of his best routes ever. Located 10 metres to the right of Santa Claus this line heads directly up the centre of the wall. Several pieces of pro are required, the remainder being painstakingly bolted over several weekends. A must do.

FFA: Mike Haffner, 1997

Mixed trad 40m, 9 Peak Charles