Routes in Eastern Area

Located 50m west of the Blackwater car park on the road Start on the right of the arete, and work your way into the scoop for a easy top out. Climb down tree at back of boulder

The gently overhanging finger and hand crack on the uphill side of the split boulder.

The gently overhanging off-width on the down hill side of the split boulder.

Not bad and a good top rope if you're just done Mercenary Swine or Ronin. The dished face 6 metres around to the left of Mercenary Swine. Start off lower left end of huge detached flake and follow edges and flakes up and a bit right to finish straight up steep slab a few metres left of Mercenary Swine.

The centre line on the pyramid shaped boulder 20m W of MS.

The arete L of S. Protected by RPs.

The flake crack 50m W of the summit boulder.

Off-width 150m NE of summit boulder

Looking back to the main track from the knoll, a group of small boulders could once be seen in a gully. This is the short line. (This climb has not been located in recent years).

Might be slightly sandbagged. Up using the rail for left hand and top out. NOTE: Descent off this boulder is by down-climbing or jumping.

Sit start using the undercling, careful not to lever off the flake, and huck to the top.

Not your usual boulder problem. A V0 chimney. Up and over. If you head right to the back it's shorter. If you want to add a bit of spice, top out on the big mushroom on top with a heel hook so you feel really insecure. Just don't fall off from there because you'd probably kill yourself impaled on a tree. Also, I take no responsibility for any stupid decisions you make.

3 metres left of RF. Stand start off right hand side pull in horizontal. Up and over.

On the platform below BOTBS. Sit start below large pocket then up and over.

Hand crack in cave below EO.

Could go as a boulder problem, assuming someone is willing to down-climb it. Up the wide to start then thinning off-width. Possibly too big for most gear.

Sit start at low jug on the lower right hand side of the boulder. Follow the jugs around left until the tree is in the way the up and over the top.

Sit start the same as the low. Make one move left then dead point to the top of the boulder, then traverse left using the jugs as foot holds until you can top out the same as the low.

200m back up the road from Blackwater car park on the valley side a small cluster of boulders with perfect jams - sit start for full tick

Climb the block in the corner, then handcrack. Has probably been done before...

Stand start on side pulls and follow the holds up. The awkward sit start is the same grade.

Sit start with feet on the partially detached flake and matching the side pull. Up the line of least resistance.

Sit start on slopers. Pull on and readjust to better holds then dead point for the good pinch sloper jug. -35.3687551, 148.9290742

Sit start on the lower 2 crack edges right of deadpoint, climb to the scoop and top out.

Pad stack to start on the crimp on the right side of the face around the corner from Tesalate. Climb up through edges and gastons.

Sit start in the corner on the back side of the boulder. Climb strait up.

Up through the crack-line statically.

A short, but deceptively hard dyno. Might be easier once it cleans up a bit; hard bit is getting enough friction off smears to dyno.

Sit Start as for Dyno-might, traverse right along crack and finish up Sit-starty.

Up from crimps to a campus move on compression holds - or use the tips crack. Balance up and mantle the top. Pretty finger-size dependent as to the grade.

Sit Start on the back of the boulder on 2 flat ledges. Tricky first move into a whale of a mantle

Sit Start 4m left of Trickery, Punchy first move and mantle

A 15 (?) metre traverse of the whole boulder, smearing all the way. Will need some cleaning up post-fires.

Stand start and along underclings all the way around the boulder to topout on the far right on easy ground. Looks to have been significantly damaged by the fires, possibly harder.

Sit start on the incut/s and up and over the slabby section to topout (if you're brave) or drop off. Seems harder than 7 since the fires.

Sit start at the corner of the boulder as for 'Madame Lash' and head up and left to join the underclings. It's unclear whether an intermediate hold has been damaged by the fires but seems difficult to get to the underclings.

Sit start on leftmost crimp as for Sabotage, climb right into Madam Lash.

Sit start and traverse right through a line of very small crimps, topping out for Brass Monkey. If you stay off the higher crimps, add a grade.

CMCC

A pure slab problem after a rockover onto the one rail/set of holds the problem has. Then it's desperately trying to levitate upwards.

A problem marred by a tree right in the way. Sit start.

May be called 'Rino'? A problem reminiscent of 'Spruce Moose', climbing your way up a prow. Currently needs gardening as there's a tree in the way.

Unknown at this stage but it looks like the problem traverses across the top of the boulder. You will want some spotters and there's currently some blackberry in the way.

This problem was destroyed by the Canberra fires of 2003.

A nice little crack line, with a bit of an arete to rest against if you get freaked out. The crack itself provides bomber laybacking with amazing friction and some reasonable incuts inside the crack to give extra confidence.

Seems to go up the arete next to the #7 crack. Pretty easy for the grade.

Up a virtual curved chimney. Very easy terrain.

Slab problem. Head a bit further out right (i.e. don't use the arete) and it's more like V2 and genuine slabbing.

The grade depends on which way you come at this. You'll know which one's the harder way when you look at it!

A bit of a puzzler, good holds to start then blanks out, but is apparently still kosher after the fires. Might need a dyno to go.

Much admired face with seam/groove left of Never Again. For full value clip the first bolt then boulder from ground level avoiding the block on left. Two bolts and gear or slings for the belay. Scramble off the back.

The obvious crack line with a wide finish.

Flaring crack into a seam and then several hook moves to gain the horizontal crack and stepping right and up using the horizontal crack.

In the atrium behind the main climbs. Consider pre-placing your first piece of pro.

The offwidth in the atrium area

The slab and minor offwidth crack at top.

A highball, very height dependent. Sit start. Sink a jam (if you can) up high and use a small notch for your left hand to campus up and get your feet set. That's the hard move, the rest is grade 14. For shorties, it's going to be more difficult but there's a reasonable number of holds. You can get off the back of the boulder, if you're careful. Obviously, don't use the tree... (it actually is quite tempting when you're trying to get the side-smear!)

Start with left hand in a quarter pad notch and right hand in the crack, and crank on up laybacking to get your feet started.

Sit start in the left corner

Sit start in left corner as for squirm, but hand traverse across crack, finishing up the right corner

50m south of the kazbah is a boulder with a thin finger crack

No info exists, though there are a few ascents logged, but all pre '10. The guide they claim to come from doesn't exist either. There are ascents logged, so I'm reluctant to merge. Although the evidence mounts that these were 'some passing cockroaches attempt at glory' - See old/new (who knows?) routing thread on Chocky '13

Left side of the large face at the top of the crag, one of the first boulders if approaching from the top. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTyUKfN2aVE

Try not to have a great fall. Stand start on the right side of the face and take the line of least resistance up.

Start as for Walking on eggshells and climb right to top as for Humpty Dumpty.

The largest boulder has two impressive cracks in it. The wider, right hand one is Matricide. Approach the boulder from the downhill side to avoid a barricade of logs. Burly, overhung fist-corner crack with an off-width start. Takes blue and grey cams most of the way. Gear belay on top, then scramble off the back.

The first crack you'll see when approaching from the downhill side. The best line at Pierce's Creek, classy climbing. The first 6m is easy but involves a pair of huge hollow flakes with questionable pro (be gentle). The business is the thin hand crack above on sound rock. Take plenty of red cams, and a few other assorted things. Blue and grey cams are best for the belay, but other options are available.

Textbook handcrack. 180 degrees around the boulder from Tarred and Feathered.

The crack flake 10m right of Split definitive.

100mt uphill from the Matricide boulder - a split boulder with nice jams

On the back side of the Stone Age boulder.

From the fire trail junction below matricide, proceed south around the right hand corner for around 100m to where you see a closed fire trail. Walk up this for 40m then 10m to your left is the back of the thin ‘n’ crispy boulder. Great wires and cams, with cams for the belay and a careful scramble off the back.

Starts in the overhang with several rising cracks on the left. A bouldery move to gain the main face, then easier ground but spaced protection to the top.

The obvious chimney facing the road.

Finger crack at back of chimney. The easiest way on and off Scone Rock.

The top rope slab left of Baker's Dozen.

On the right-hand boulder is this climb, the left leaning hand crack with a wide finish. Previously world famous as the name of the ACT's Pritkin Climbing Rag. The hand crack with the wide finish.

Drop the rope, grab a pad and start it from a sit.

The thin, right leaning finger crack on the boulder on the left of GOMS. Originally 23 but easier since the demise of a large flake has opened up the crack.

Offwidth on short wall left of GTCISP.

The flake crack in the eastern gully below bakers dozen

Soft and Flakey, the flared crack faceing the road.

The offwidth crack

Great variety - Up slab to finger locks and jugs, before an offwidth finish

Up the left curving crack. V0, maybe 15? Onsite solo FA

Around to the right of BK1. Layback or offwidth start and then up. Walk off. V0 / maybe 14? Onsite solo FA