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Matricide

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 14

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Eastern Area

The Eastern Area is all state forest. It is the site of a commercial pine plantation managed by ACT Parks and Conservation Services. The area is occasionally closed during logging operations. Dates for logging operations are usually posted on the Parks and Conservation web site.

Approach

~50m up the closed road you'll see Matricide on your left

Ethic inherited from Eastern Area

Trad climbing, top roping and high-ball bouldering.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Continue down the road from Blackwater about 300m. Park where a steep closed road with ski jumps joins from the right (uphill). Walk up the steep road for ~40m (4th ski jump), and head left into the pines. The boulder is only 15m from the steep road but completely obscured by trees.

From ACT Granite: Continuing from the knoll, the track veers right and plunges downhill for a short distance. When it levels out, at the intersection with the original ridge track, a collection of large boulders can be seen on the uphill side (nope, hidden by trees now).

The largest boulder has two impressive cracks in it. The wider, right hand one is Matricide. Approach the boulder from the downhill side to avoid a barricade of logs. Burly, overhung fist-corner crack with an off-width start. Takes blue and grey cams most of the way. Gear belay on top, then scramble off the back.

FA: Rob Topfer & Lucas Trihey, 1981

The first crack you'll see when approaching from the downhill side. The best line at Pierce's Creek, classy climbing. The first 6m is easy but involves a pair of huge hollow flakes with questionable pro (be gentle). The business is the thin hand crack above on sound rock. Take plenty of red cams, and a few other assorted things. Blue and grey cams are best for the belay, but other options are available.

FFA: Peter Fisk & John Carlson, 1980

FA: Rob Topfer, Mike Peck & John Carlson, 1980

Textbook handcrack. 180 degrees around the boulder from Tarred and Feathered.

FA: James lister, Apr 2020

The crack flake 10m right of Split definitive.

From the fire trail junction below matricide, proceed south around the right hand corner for around 100m to where you see a closed fire trail. Walk up this for 40m then 10m to your left is the back of the thin ‘n’ crispy boulder.

FA: Cads, 17 May

On the back side of the Stone Age boulder.

FA: Cads, 17 May

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