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Routes in The Lighthouse

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 105 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Superliner Area
19 Superliner

The first arête right of the lighthouse fence. Excellent protection. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and abseil down the arete to Ring bolt belay. Climb up passing 10 Ring bolts , a couple of cams and a thread (120cm sling handy).

There is a lower start only 5m lower for this bring x5 carrots

FA: 2003

Mixed trad 35m, 7
15 Two Ounces
Trad 30m
19 Anchovy Express

Up groove passing carrots.

Nice wall take lots of small cams and wires.

Double carrot belay

Start: On halfway ledge as for Two Ounces

FA: G. James & P. Bridges, 1998

Mixed trad 30m, 7
20 Guiding Light

Many cams!

Up white corner grove to block, step right. Continue crack to the right end of a big roof. Step right and up to break, up then left to big orange headwall.

Start: Same as for banksia and coleridge.

FA: Ian Brown & Tom Williams, 1988

Trad 40m
16 Coleridge

Start: Start on same ledge.

FA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1988

Trad 40m
17 Sunset Strip

The broken twin cracks 2m left of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Step left and up the cracks with good protection.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun

Trad 20m
16 Hollywood Boulevard

There is a west facing orange wall about 10m right of Coleridge. Hollywood Boulevard is the corner crack at the left side of this wall. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Up the corner cracks.

FA: 2002

Trad 20m
20 Battle Cruiser

A nice clean crack with excellent easy to place protection. The next corner crack right of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge (as per Hollywood Boulevard). Walk around the corner (stay on the abseil rope) and set up a belay. Up the corner crack.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

Trad 15m
18 whale watching cruise

The wide crack just right of battle cruiser. A #5 or #6 wouldn't be missed for the top half

FA: Mark Feeney, 10 Jul

Trad 14m
20 Seahawk (Top Pitch only)

The top pitch of Seahawk from DBB. Carefully up the brittle undercut start then march up and slightly right through band after band of different rock types. This pitch is quite overhung but juggy most of the way.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013

Sport 35m, 13
23 All Guns Blazing (Top pitch only)

Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013

Sport 36m, 13
21 Destroyer

Atmospheric. The next crack left of Voyager. Rap down Voyager and set up a belay on the step about 1m below the main ledge, use the rap rope to backup the belay. Traverse left along the break and up the crack. Good protection once you are in the crack.

FA: 2003

Trad 15m
22 Captagon

A long pumper on pockets. A touch overhung. It's the ringbolted route squeezed between Destroyer and Voyager, but starting much lower on tiny 'ledge' with ring bolts.

Set by Neil Monteith, 26 Oct 2014

FA: Monty Curtis & ben lane, 19 Mar 2016

Sport 28m, 11
16 Voyager

On February 10th 1964 the navy destroyer Voyager was sunk off Jervis Bay when it collided with the aircraft carrier Melbourne. 82 men died in the incident. Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Left of the embayment there are a couple of cracks in the cliff top. The Right crack is Voyager and the Left crack is Destroyer. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and Abseil down the line to a good ledge in an embayment. Up the left corner crack.

FA: Robert Dun / James Hardy

Trad 15m
19 James Hardy 1000

Put up the weekend of the Bathurst car races, and named accordingly to annoy James. Abseil down and set up a belay in Voyager. Step right and head up the right corner crack. The crack is fused at the top.

FA: 2002

Trad 15m
Centurion Area
18 Typhoon

Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Typhoon is the crack in the right corner of the embayment. Abseil down the middle of the embayment until you get to a small ledge with a 2 carrot bolt belay. The belay is at the base of a seam in the slabby wall. Start up the slabby wall past 2 carrot bolts trending right. Then up the right corner crack.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun, 2003

Trad 15m
21 Rapt in Rubber

Exposed - Traverse left near arete past bolt, up past more.

Start: Same belay as 'Centurion'

FA: Greg James & Steve Burns, 2000

Mixed trad 15m, 3
16 Centurion

Left hand edge of ledge, up corner. Don't get drawn into the overhang. Instead, stay on the left face to place pro before the crux move.

Start: Same start as RIR

FA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1989

Trad 10m
25 Plunging Testicles

Named after the huge Testicle shaped boulder that Greg and Steve trundled off the ledge on the first ascent.

Up wall past bolts and small cam placements on sharp holds.

Start: 'Centurion' ledge

FA: Greg James, Steve Burns & Escaba, 2000

Mixed trad 10m, 2
15 Impact Zone

Up the corner crack.

Same belay as WCF.

Trad 10m
15 Women and Children First

Start on the Centurian Ledge as per Impact Zone. Step right onto a horizontal crack over the awesome exposure above the rocks below. One solid move then up the easy ramp to a two carrot belay at the top.

FA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1989

Trad 12m
24 Delusions of Grandeur

Overhung and very very exposed - even for Point Perp standards. This is a mixed route - only 3 bolts in the lower half - the rest is cams in horizontals - try not to pump off placing them! Rap in down the finish corner of Women and Children first - clipping into gear/bolts on the way down to stay connected to the rock to ridiculous hanging belay on lip of roof. Climb up and right through short chossy section to rooflet, over this (reachy) then straight up face and steepness above. Cams from finger to wide fist size required.

FA: Neil Monteith, May 2013

Mixed trad 20m, 3
22 Titan I Am

The Point's first route bolted with titanium. Rap from carrots to reach semi-hanging belay with foot ledge (double rings). Long, pumpy and well-protected climbing with 10 bolts and one or two obvious medium cam placements, or run it out (safe).

FA: Lee Cujes & Sam Cujes, 1 Apr 2013

Mixed trad 25m, 10
17 Oarsome

Traverse left off ledge to hanging crack, great gear.

Trad 20m
21 Australia's Hardest Climb

Great steep climbing with some tough to read moves. Rap in to find two hard-to-see carrots placed directly into a horizontal ledge. Slabby start on polished rock (cams in horizontals) to high BR when the rock steepens. Continue up overhung face above past FH and a a couple more BRs.

Mixed trad 15m, 4
20 Whale order bride

Rap to same belay carrots as AHC.

Start same as AHC with gear, then rings on headwall.

FA: Will Watkins & Nick le Frenchie, 26 Oct 2012

Mixed trad 15m, 4
18 Wolf

Steep wall 2m left of arete with not a lot of pro.

Start: Left side of arete, exposed stance.

FA: Roy Fryer, Owen McMahon & Cerin McMillan., 2000

Trad 15m
Red Riding Hood Area
17 Little Red Riding Hood Direct

A much longer and better version of the original - starting from double bolt belay on small ledge on right side of arete, below the Levee Breaks terrace. Left and up quartz infused face (lots of FHs) to eventually join into original route at 15m at crack section (medium cams). Finish up original arete past bolt and cams.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2013

Mixed trad 30m, 8
17 Little Red Riding Hood

Traverse out left and up, aiming for the nose. Up this to the top. There are a few bolt hangers past the nose to get you past the fairly blank section on the arete. Double carrot belay on top.

Start: Rap into the embankment just to the right of the lowest point in the lighthouse fence.

FA: Steve Burns, Greg James & Bede Harrington, 2000

Mixed trad 25m, 1
20 Greg's Crack

The major crack line between When the Levee Breaks and Red Riding Hood. Start as for Red Riding Hood. Follow the hairline crack up the wall until the ledge. Climb the short pedestal and move right into the crack. Up the crack passing two bolts (on the right of the crack).

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig

Mixed trad 20m, 2
19 Czech Mate
Trad 20m
19 When the Levee Breaks

Start just right of LRRH. Up the line with four FHs and pockets for cams or just run it out.

FA: Greg James, 2000

Mixed trad 20m, 4
23 Big Bad Wolf

Starts under the line of rings 3m left of "When the Levee Breaks". Hard crux and will be desperate if you are a little short.

FA: Will Watkins, 26 Oct 2012

Sport 20m
15 Spiders And Space Cadets

The corner between Proudly Penguin and When the Levee Breaks. Bridge up the corner and chimney with good protection. Take a sling for the big thread near the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta / Jane Montgomery

Trad 20m
21 R Proudly Penguin

Start: 2m right of corner. Up wall to flake then bolt to top. Watch the runouts!

FA: Neil Plant & Robyn Cleland, 2000

Mixed trad 20m, 1
21 Destructive Wombats

Start: 4m right of corner. Straight up the wall past many cam placements and a BOMBER sling at half height!

Mixed trad 20m, 2
21 Struggle Streets

Thin flake with 3 FHs right of Destructive Wombats.

Trad 25m
18 Trade Wind

The broken crack line left of Fat Man's Misery and R of Destructive Wombats. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun

Trad 15m
16 Fat Man's Misery

The wide crack / chimney left of the Krill a Whale buttress. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta

Trad 15m
18 Krill-A-Whale

Start down to the left of the arete.

Mixed trad 30m, 2
18 Hooray for Hippies

Best to rap off carrots for Sieze The Day access, and stop on good size ledge (enough for 3) belay off two rings, start looks intimidating but its fairly easy crux at mid height and the very top

FA: Rick, Paul, Gilles, Big G & Jonesy, 21 Oct 2012

Sport 28m
15 The Poseidon Adventure

The wide crack / chimney right of the Krill-a-Whale buttress. Rap down the line to a 2 carrot bolt belay at a small ledge halfway down the left wall. Up the line passing two carrot bolts on the wide part at the top.

FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun

Trad 15m
23 Sieze The Day

Rap off carrots, clipping some bolts on way down otherwise your stranded in space. Belay off double rings at small stance..Climbs switches on at halfway mark, if you don't like mono's you won't like this

FA: Rick Phillips & Paul Devine, 21 Oct 2012

Sport 28m
22 The Brown Streak

FA: Greg James

Trad
21 Schrapnel In My Backyard

Line of ringbolts left of the Mister Bean arete. Abseil down to small ledge with 2 glue-in carrot bolts as belay. Up past 4 rings and a mid-sized cam.

FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits & Chris Trengove, 2007

Mixed trad 15m, 4
Liquid Insanity Area
24 Mister Bean

Clip first bolt of FL, then make way to arete passing another bolt. Follow arete passing 8 more bolts with one hidden around the left. Apparently grade 26 if you don't use the holds on the left of arete (but given one of the bolts is around there... .

FA: Greg James, 1992

Sport 30m, 10
23 Fuzzy Logic

Climb off the block staying out of the corner passing a few FHs and many medium cams. Is slightly run out at the top, but is easier and you can put in some big cams if you really want.

Start: Rap in to an exposed triangular block with 2 FH for belay.

FA: Greg James, 1992

Trad 25m
17 Neptune

All bolts have been removed from this route including belay bolts. Rebolt to come.

FA: Werner Steyer / Robert Dun / Kate Wright, 2004

Trad 15m
22 Grandmas ta Flash

Ring bolts a couple of metres right of Neptune.

FFA: Mike

Sport 15m
23 Unorthodox Liasons

Climb direct up the wall to the left of the arete past 5 ring bolts. Challenging moves low down leads to pleasant upper section.

FA: Will Watkins & Rick fatty fillips, 10 Nov 2012

Sport 15m, 5
24 Liquid Insanity Direct Finish

Start: As for 'Liquid Insanity' but dont traverse back right, continue up arete.

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992

Mixed trad 35m, 5
23 Liquid Insanity

Up corner, then left passing bolts to arete, up arete with cams. Near top, traverse back right and up final bolt line.

Start: Start as for 'Liquid Daze'

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992

Mixed trad 35m, 4
23 Liquid Daze

Up small corner (bolt) to wall, then tending right slightly past more bolts.

Named in honour of the second who had a hangover and had recently been listening to a Philip Glass song "Liquid Days"

FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992

Mixed trad 30m, 4
22 Fight or Flight

Line of carrot bolts to the right of Liquid Daze. Great moves on great rock. Starts off the vegitated block ledge.

FA: R.Dunn & Matt Scoles, 2006

Sport 15m
19 Melody Lines
Trad 15m
15 Test

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1998

Trad 15m
16 Whistle
Trad 15m
16 Grey

FA: Phil Georgeff, 1988

Trad 15m
22 Just Technical
Sport 15m
22 We Are Amphibious

Ring-bolted arete with awesome pockets.

FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Trengove, 2007

Sport 10m
Rex Hunt's Area
21 Rex Hunt's Love Child

A super classic - and probably the best route around this grade on the sea cliffs. Do it!

Start: Abseil in from carrot and cams for backup. Start on the left hand side of the wall below the rings. Take some trad gear as well to supplement the bolts if you are not confident at the grade. That said, hanging around to place gear might mean you miss the tick! Falls are safe from the crux.

Warning: As of 4/1/18, the fixed hanger at the anchor is loose and needs replacing.

FA: Paul Greenland, 1992

Sport 30m, 10
22 Northern Exposure

Start: 2m right of RHLC. Straight up the wall - small to medium cams help in the middle.

FA: Tony Burnell, 1992

Mixed trad 30m, 6
20 Bad Luck Streak

Start: At the thin crack. Climb the thin crack until it ends at half height, step left to continue crack and up into the jams to top.

FA: Joe Lynch Mike Law-Smith Phil Georgeff, 1988

Trad 30m
18 Moving Targets
Trad 30m
26 Eviction Order

Low in the grade. Great climbing past 3 fixed brackets to a hard techy finnish on edges and monos.

Mixed trad 15m, 3
22 Sticky Date Pudding
Trad 15m
19 Froffwidth
Trad 15m
23 Two Minute Hate

Short punchy face. This is NOT a three star route. Maybe one star.

Sport 12m, 5
26 Kalani

Rap in off ring and carrot. Down to double ring belay. Moderate move past 1st ring and punchy crux near top. Enjoy

FA: Tim Booth, 20 May 2018

Sport 13m, 8
19 Real Men Have Man Boobs

FFA: R Sonnerdale

Trad 15m
27 Rani

Abseil off double rings to ledge. Double ring belay. Pre clip 1st ring as little spicy move down low. Cruise to mid height for punchy crux then go for ze sumeet

FA: Tim Booth, 11 Jun 2018

Sport 10m, 8
24 Wifey's cookin one

Rap in off double rings to double rings at ledge. Up then punchy second half with a big chuck to a pocket to finish

FA: Tim Booth, 12 Nov 2017

Sport 10m, 8
24 American Bikini Jam
Trad 12m
(New route directly up arete)

Not in current guidebook but it was there last time I was. --Lee.

Unknown 12m
19 Natural Selection
Trad 20m
Peristalsis Area
18 Rubble Without a Cause

This is the corner below where the lighthouse enclosure fence meets the cliff top.

Trad 40m
(Ivan's Project)

Bolted seam.

SportProject
(Zac's Project)

2m R.

SportProject
28 High Society

Impressive steep arete, overhung on both sides. Bolts still good as at 2020. Fantastic easier climbing to a stout final section.

FA: Zac Vertress, 2006

Sport 25m
25 Sex, Bolts and Ice Cream
Trad 40m
26 Bung Eye

The bolts left of Bondage and Discipline.

FA: Zac Vertrees, 2006

Mixed trad 20m, 1
22 Bondage and Discipline

FA: Greg James & Mark Davies

Mixed trad 40m, 3
16 Peristalsis
Trad 40m
22 Mind the Gap

Great position and cool climbing.

Mixed trad 40m, 3
25 The Whip

Start as for 'Mind the Gap'. After placing cam in big pocket, traverse right past one ring bolt to the arete (cams in pocket and in flakes- make sure you have a #2 C3 to protect final crux). Enjoy the view then punch up the arete. Great exposure!

FA: George Broadfoot, 22 Apr 2013

Mixed trad 25m, 3
Lighthouse Lower Whalesong Buttress
17 Lithgow Girls
Trad 45m
20 Repulse

The face left of Whalesong with squillions of carrots - that are very hard to spot from below. Start on the left side of blunt arete at the foot of the buttress. Although generally the rock is excellent on this route, there are many large detached flakes that should have been removed with a hammer by the first ascent team. Be warned - get your belayer to wear a helmet. Don't believe the print guide topo - there is NO lower-off anchor at the top of this climb - just two carrots. You will need to finish up Superliner to get off.

FA: Robert Dunn & Werner Steyer, 2004

Sport 30m, 12
19 Whalesong
Trad 50m
16 Staircase to Dracophyllum
Trad 53m
Lighthouse Lower Mariner Buttress
18 Ancient Mariner
Trad 45m
18 Albatross
Trad 50m
20 Silent Sea
Trad 50m
18 Upon a Painted Ocean
Trad 55m
17 Gaia
Trad 55m
Lighthouse Lower Atmosfear Wall
16 Storm-blast

Juggy right facing open-book corner bordering the left side of the Atmosfear Wall. This route seeps for much of the year - with drainage coming down from the pools below the lighthouse

Trad 45m
25 Seahawk
1 25 37m
2 25 12m
3 20 35m

Big, steep and on excellent rock for most of the way. The lower pitches start at sea level and feature amazing orange smooth rock. The upper easy pitch is a great single pitch in its own right with a variety of rock types (from smooth, to pocketed to slightly chossy). You can link pitch 1 & 2 together for one massive 50m pitch (as was done on the first ascent).

  1. 37m (25) Start up All Guns Blazing for four bolts then take the left line up the steep imposing wall. Crank endlessly to tiny ledge and double ring belay. You can link this with next pitch if you have the guns and draws.

  2. 12m (25) Bouldery moves up and right on delicious smooth rock to more major ledge.

  3. 35m (20) Carefully up the brittle undercut start then march up and slightly right through band after band of different rock types. This pitch is quite overhung but juggy most of the way.

FA: Matt Brooks (p 1, 2) & Neil Monteith (p3), 4 May 2013

Sport 84m, 3, 14
24 All Guns Blazing
1 23 36m
2 24 14m
3 23 36m

Multipitch sport route straight up the guts of the biggest and steepest section of Point Perp. Very sustained climbing on immaculate rock. The first pitch especially is an absolute stunner. It's 90m direct to sea level via free hanging abseil - a 100m rope, or two 50m tied together makes rap access easy (knot change required if using two 50m). Otherwise - fix a 50m rap rope and clip into bolts on the way down to the belay ledge at end of pitch 1. Then use a 70m rope doubled to make it to sea level. Don't attempt the lower pitches if the surf is up!

  1. 36m (23) Unrelenting pumper. Starts from sea level at left end of massive steep wall - starting off rock platform. Easy start up jugs to meet right end of rooflet at 10m. Now plow direct up the overhung wall above on mostly big jugs. They won't feel like jugs by the time you finish though! Finish with a spicy runout to small ledge on the left (bring a single bolt plate for this belay). Alternativly continue into 2nd pitch (50m pitch!) 10+ bolts in this pitch.

  2. 14m (24) A bouldery little number. Out right from the ledge and over tricky bulge (random FHs) and rightwards on great glossy rock to next ledge and bolt belay. 4 bolts.

  3. 36m (23) Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts.

Set by Neil Monteith

FA: Neil Monteith (p1, 3) & Matt Brooks (p2), 25 Apr 2013

Sport 86m, 3
20 Wedding Party

Easier variant to Seahawk's second pitch. From belay ledge climb right clipping first two bolts of Seahawk, then keep traversin right and up white polished wall past two expansion bolts to ledge. Climbed on Neil's wedding day!

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono 'Bestman' Schmidt, 31 Aug 2013

Sport 15m, 4
24 Atmosfear

Continous steep climbing on mostly big holds. Currently the right most line of bolts on the lower wall. Easy start up jugs then the angle starts to steepen and the holds get smaller. Keep fighting through a pumpy section to jugs. Finish up superb polished rock heading slightly left to double rings on ledge below top pitch of All Guns Blazing.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 4 May 2013

Sport 50m, 18
22 Mixmaster

This ones for you Damo! A long steep pitch of mixed climbing following a weakness and corner system up high. Bring a full rack (doubles of hand to fist size cams and some wires). The first 15m is all trad then once the angle steepens it's spaced ringbolts and trad to the top. Belay off FH and ringbolt with long slings.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 9 Jun 2013

Mixed trad 55m, 8

Showing 1 - 100 out of 105 routes.