Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
28/29 | |||||
Peristalsis Area | |||||
28/29 | ★★★ Peasants Direct
Abseil down to double bolt belay. Pre or stick clip 1st bolt. Follow the arete the whole way up FA: Tim Booth, 1 Jan 2021 | 25m, 12 | |||
28 | |||||
Peristalsis Area | |||||
28 | ★★★ Mako's Legacy
Rap of double rings at top. Recommend pre clipping 1st bolt. Start at ledge and up steep over hang. Up and up to crux on small pockets and moving right across the shield to arete. Good no hands rest and spicy slab finisher! Epic climbing and lasting memory for the faithful hound FA: Tim Booth, 28 Nov 2022 | 25m, 12 | |||
28 | ★★★ High Society
Impressive steep arete, overhung on both sides. Bolts still good as at 2020. Fantastic easier climbing to a stout final section. FA: Zac Vertress, 2006 | 25m | |||
27/28 | |||||
Peristalsis Area | |||||
27/28 | ★★★ Lawson, git the Dawg
FA: Tim Booth | 10 | |||
27 | |||||
Rex Hunt's Area | |||||
27 | ★★ Rani
Abseil off double rings to ledge. Double ring belay. Pre clip 1st ring as little spicy move down low. Cruise to mid height for punchy crux then go for ze sumeet FA: Tim Booth, 11 Jun 2018 | 10m, 8 | |||
26 | |||||
Peristalsis Area | |||||
26 | Bung Eye
The bolts left of Bondage and Discipline. FA: Zac Vertrees, 2006 | 20m, 1 | |||
Rex Hunt's Area | |||||
26 | ★ Kalani
Rap in off ring and carrot. Down to double ring belay. Moderate move past 1st ring and punchy crux near top. Enjoy FA: Tim Booth, 20 May 2018 | 13m, 8 | |||
26 | ★★ Eviction Order
Low in the grade. Great climbing past 3 fixed brackets to a hard techy finnish on edges and monos. | 15m, 3 | |||
25 | |||||
Lighthouse Lower Atmosfear Wall | |||||
25 | ★★★ Seahawk
Big, steep and on excellent rock for most of the way. The lower pitches start at sea level and feature amazing orange smooth rock. The upper easy pitch is a great single pitch in its own right with a variety of rock types (from smooth, to pocketed to slightly chossy). You can link pitch 1 & 2 together for one massive 50m pitch (as was done on the first ascent).
FA: Matt Brooks (p 1, 2) & Neil Monteith (p3), 2013 | 84m, 3, 14 | |||
Peristalsis Area | |||||
25 | ★★★ The Whip
Start as for 'Mind the Gap'. After placing cam in big pocket, traverse right past one ring bolt to the arete (cams in pocket and in flakes- make sure you have a #2 C3 to protect final crux). Enjoy the view then punch up the arete. Great exposure! FA: George Broadfoot, 2013 | 25m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★ Phat Dad's 40th
Abseil off Mako's Legacys rings. Recommend pre placing yellow camalot in pocket through crux and extending quick draw. Hanging belay off cams Follow crack up as for trad dadz, rest before blasting over overlap through crux and keep ya shit together for the spicy run out to top on the slab | 25m | |||
25 | Sex, Bolts and Ice Cream
| 40m | |||
25 | Zaks piker
FFA: Tim Booth | ||||
Centurion Area | |||||
25 | ★★ Plunging Testicles
Named after the huge Testicle shaped boulder that Greg and Steve trundled off the ledge on the first ascent. Up wall past bolts and small cam placements on sharp holds. Start: 'Centurion' ledge FA: Greg James, Steve Burns & Escaba, 2000 | 10m, 2 | |||
24 | |||||
Lighthouse Lower Atmosfear Wall | |||||
24 | ★★★ Atmosfear
Continous steep climbing on mostly big holds. Currently the right most line of bolts on the lower wall. Easy start up jugs then the angle starts to steepen and the holds get smaller. Keep fighting through a pumpy section to jugs. Finish up superb polished rock heading slightly left to double rings on ledge below top pitch of All Guns Blazing. FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013 | 50m, 18 | |||
24 | ★★ All Guns Blazing
Multipitch sport route straight up the guts of the biggest and steepest section of Point Perp. Very sustained climbing on immaculate rock. The first pitch especially is an absolute stunner. It's 90m direct to sea level via free hanging abseil - a 100m rope, or two 50m tied together makes rap access easy (knot change required if using two 50m). Otherwise - fix a 50m rap rope and clip into bolts on the way down to the belay ledge at end of pitch 1. Then use a 70m rope doubled to make it to sea level. Don't attempt the lower pitches if the surf is up!
Set: Neil Monteith FA: Neil Monteith (p1, 3) & Matt Brooks (p2), 2013 | 86m, 3 | |||
Peristalsis Area | |||||
24 | Ivan's Milat
Bolted seam. | ||||
Rex Hunt's Area | |||||
24 | American Bikini Jam
| 12m | |||
24 | ★★ Wifey's cookin one
Rap in off double rings to double rings at ledge. Up then punchy second half with a big chuck to a pocket to finish FA: Tim Booth, 12 Nov 2017 | 10m, 8 | |||
Liquid Insanity Area | |||||
24 | ★★★ Liquid Insanity Direct Finish
Start: As for 'Liquid Insanity' but dont traverse back right, continue up arete. FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992 | 35m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★★ Mister Bean
Clip first bolt of FL, then make way to arete passing another bolt. Follow arete passing 8 more bolts with one hidden around the left. Apparently grade 26 if you don't use the holds on the left of arete (but given one of the bolts is around there... . FA: Greg James, 1992 | 30m, 10 | |||
Centurion Area | |||||
24 | ★★ Delusions of Grandeur
Overhung and very very exposed - even for Point Perp standards. This is a mixed route - only 3 bolts in the lower half - the rest is cams in horizontals - try not to pump off placing them! Rap in down the finish corner of Women and Children first - clipping into gear/bolts on the way down to stay connected to the rock to ridiculous hanging belay on lip of roof. Climb up and right through short chossy section to rooflet, over this (reachy) then straight up face and steepness above. Cams from finger to wide fist size required. FA: Neil Monteith, 2013 | 20m, 3 | |||
23 | |||||
Rex Hunt's Area | |||||
23 | ★★ Two Minute Hate
Short punchy face. This is NOT a three star route. Maybe one star. | 12m, 5 | |||
Liquid Insanity Area | |||||
23 | ★★★ Liquid Daze
Up small corner (bolt) to wall, then tending right slightly past more bolts. Named in honour of the second who had a hangover and had recently been listening to a Philip Glass song "Liquid Days" FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992 | 30m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★★ Liquid Insanity
Up corner, then left passing bolts to arete, up arete with cams. Near top, traverse back right and up final bolt line. Start: Start as for 'Liquid Daze' FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig, 1992 | 35m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Unorthodox Liasons
Climb direct up the wall to the left of the arete past 5 ring bolts. Challenging moves low down leads to pleasant upper section. FA: Will Watkins & Rick fatty fillips, 2012 | 15m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Fuzzy Logic
Climb off the block staying out of the corner passing a few FHs and many medium cams. Is slightly run out at the top, but is easier and you can put in some big cams if you really want. Start: Rap in to an exposed triangular block with 2 FH for belay. FA: Greg James, 1992 | 25m | |||
Red Riding Hood Area | |||||
23 | ★ Sieze The Day
Rap off carrots, clipping some bolts on way down otherwise your stranded in space. Belay off double rings at small stance..Climbs switches on at halfway mark, if you don't like mono's you won't like this FA: Rick Phillips & Paul Devine, 2012 | 28m | |||
23 | ★ Big Bad Wolf
Starts under the line of rings, 3m left of "When the Levee Breaks". The crux is just above the halfway ledge, and it will be desperate if you are a little short. And considering that you'll land on the ledge, this isn't the place for soft catches. FA: Will Watkins, 2012 | 20m | |||
Superliner Area | |||||
23 | ★★ All Guns Blazing (Top pitch only)
Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts. FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013 | 36m, 13 | |||
22 | |||||
Lighthouse Lower Atmosfear Wall | |||||
22 | ★★★ Mixmaster
This ones for you Damo! A long steep pitch of mixed climbing following a weakness and corner system up high. Bring a full rack (doubles of hand to fist size cams and some wires). The first 15m is all trad then once the angle steepens it's spaced ringbolts and trad to the top. Belay off FH and ringbolt with long slings. FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013 | 55m, 8 | |||
Peristalsis Area | |||||
22 | ★★ Mind the Gap
Great position and cool climbing. | 40m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Bondage and Discipline
FA: Greg James & Mark Davies | 40m, 3 | |||
Rex Hunt's Area | |||||
22 | ★ Sticky Date Pudding
| 15m | |||
22 | ★★★ Northern Exposure
Start: 2m right of RHLC. Straight up the wall - small to medium cams help in the middle. FA: Tony Burnell, 1992 | 30m, 6 | |||
Liquid Insanity Area | |||||
22 | ★★ We Are Amphibious
Ring-bolted arete with awesome pockets. FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Trengove, 2007 | 10m | |||
22 | ★★ Just Technical
| 15m | |||
22 | ★★ Fight or Flight
Line of carrot bolts to the right of Liquid Daze. Great moves on great rock. Starts off the vegitated block ledge. FA: R.Dunn & Matt Scoles, 2006 | 15m | |||
22 | ★ Grandmas ta Flash
Ring bolts a couple of metres right of Neptune. FFA: Mike Garben | 15m | |||
Red Riding Hood Area | |||||
22 | The Brown Streak
FA: Greg James | ||||
Centurion Area | |||||
22 | ★★ Titan I Am
The Point's first route bolted with titanium. Rap from carrots to reach semi-hanging belay with foot ledge (double rings). Long, pumpy and well-protected climbing with 10 bolts and one or two obvious medium cam placements, or run it out (safe). FA: Lee Cujes & Sam Cujes, 2013 | 25m, 10 | |||
Superliner Area | |||||
22 | ★★ Captagon
A long pumper on pockets. A touch overhung. It's the ringbolted route squeezed between Destroyer and Voyager, but starting much lower on tiny 'ledge' with ring bolts. Set: Neil Monteith, 26 Oct 2014 FA: Heath Black & ben lane, 19 Mar 2016 | 28m, 11 | |||
21 | |||||
Peristalsis Area | |||||
21 | ★★★ Trad Dadz
Abseil off the back of buttress on makos legacy anchors. Hanging belay on cams left of Bung Eye. Unreal positioning. Follow finger crack up then dog leg left and over bulge into wide crack. Follow this to top (Same exit as SBA ice cream.) FA: Tim Booth & Andrew Glover, Jan 2023 | 25m | |||
Rex Hunt's Area | |||||
21 | ★★★ Rex Hunt's Love Child
A super classic - and probably the best route around this grade on the sea cliffs. Do it! Start: Abseil in from carrot and cams for backup. Start on the left hand side of the wall below the rings. Take some trad gear as well to supplement the bolts if you are not confident at the grade. That said, hanging around to place gear might mean you miss the tick! Falls are safe from the crux. Warning: As of 4/1/18, the fixed hanger at the anchor is loose and needs replacing. FA: Paul Greenland, 1992 | 30m, 10 | |||
Red Riding Hood Area | |||||
21 | ★ Schrapnel In My Backyard
Line of ringbolts left of the Mister Bean arete. Abseil down to small ledge with 2 glue-in carrot bolts as belay. Up past 4 rings and a mid-sized cam. FA: Lee Cujes, Erik Smits & Chris Trengove, 2007 | 15m, 4 | |||
21 | ★ Struggle Streets
Thin flake with 3 FHs right of Destructive Wombats. | 25m | |||
21 | ★★ Destructive Wombats
Start: 4m right of corner. Straight up the wall past many cam placements and a BOMBER sling at half height! | 20m, 2 | |||
Centurion Area | |||||
21 | ★★ Australia's Hardest Climb
Great steep climbing with some tough to read moves. Rap in to find two hard-to-see carrots placed directly into a horizontal ledge. Slabby start on polished rock (cams in horizontals) to high BR when the rock steepens. Continue up overhung face above past FH and a a couple more BRs. | 15m, 4 | |||
21 | ★ Rapt in Rubber
Exposed - Traverse left near arete past bolt, up past more. Start: Same belay as 'Centurion' FA: Greg James & Steve Burns, 2000 | 15m, 3 | |||
Superliner Area | |||||
21 | ★ Destroyer
Atmospheric. The next crack left of Voyager. Rap down Voyager and set up a belay on the step about 1m below the main ledge, use the rap rope to backup the belay. Traverse left along the break and up the crack. Good protection once you are in the crack. FA: 2003 | 15m | |||
21 R | |||||
Red Riding Hood Area | |||||
21 R | ★★ Proudly Penguin
Start: 2m right of corner. Up wall to flake then bolt to top. Watch the runouts! FA: Neil Plant & Robyn Cleland, 2000 | 20m, 1 | |||
20 | |||||
Lighthouse Lower Bayside Lower East | |||||
20 | Greenpeace
| 50m | |||
Lighthouse Lower Atmosfear Wall | |||||
20 | ★★ Wedding Party
Easier variant to Seahawk's second pitch. From belay ledge climb right clipping first two bolts of Seahawk, then keep traversin right and up white polished wall past two expansion bolts to ledge. Climbed on Neil's wedding day! FA: Neil Monteith & Jono 'Bestman' Schmidt, 2013 | 15m, 4 | |||
Lighthouse Lower Mariner Buttress | |||||
20 | ★★ Silent Sea
| 50m | |||
Lighthouse Lower Whalesong Buttress | |||||
20 | ★ Repulse
The face left of Whalesong with squillions of carrots - that are very hard to spot from below. Start on the left side of blunt arete at the foot of the buttress. Although generally the rock is excellent on this route, there are many large detached flakes that should have been removed with a hammer by the first ascent team. Be warned - get your belayer to wear a helmet. Don't believe the print guide topo - there is NO lower-off anchor at the top of this climb - just two carrots. You will need to finish up Superliner to get off. FA: Robert Dunn & Werner Steyer, 2004 | 30m, 12 | |||
Rex Hunt's Area | |||||
20 | ★★★ Bad Luck Streak
Start: At the thin crack. Climb the thin crack until it ends at half height, step left to continue crack and up into the jams to top. FA: Joe Lynch Mike Law-Smith Phil Georgeff, 1988 | 30m | |||
Red Riding Hood Area | |||||
20 | ★★ Greg's Crack
The major crack line between When the Levee Breaks and Red Riding Hood. Start as for Red Riding Hood. Follow the hairline crack up the wall until the ledge. Climb the short pedestal and move right into the crack. Up the crack passing two bolts (on the right of the crack). FA: Greg James & Adrian Kladnig | 20m, 2 | |||
Centurion Area | |||||
20 | ★ Whale order bride
Rap to same belay carrots as AHC. Start same as AHC with gear, then rings on headwall. FA: Will Watkins & Nick le Frenchie, 2012 | 15m, 4 | |||
Superliner Area | |||||
20 | ★★ Seahawk (Top Pitch only)
The top pitch of Seahawk from DBB. Carefully up the brittle undercut start then march up and slightly right through band after band of different rock types. This pitch is quite overhung but juggy most of the way. FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013 | 35m, 13 | |||
20 | ★ Battle Cruiser
A nice clean crack with excellent easy to place protection. The next corner crack right of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge (as per Hollywood Boulevard). Walk around the corner (stay on the abseil rope) and set up a belay. Up the corner crack. FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta | 15m | |||
20 | Guiding Light
Many cams! Up white corner grove to block, step right. Continue crack to the right end of a big roof. Step right and up to break, up then left to big orange headwall. Start: Same as for banksia and coleridge. FA: Ian Brown & Tom Williams, 1988 | 40m | |||
19 | |||||
Lighthouse Lower Whalesong Buttress | |||||
19 | Whalesong
| 50m | |||
Rex Hunt's Area | |||||
19 | Natural Selection
| 20m | |||
19 | ★★ Real Men Have Man Boobs
FFA: R Sonnerdale | 15m | |||
19 | ★★ Froffwidth
| 15m | |||
Liquid Insanity Area | |||||
19 | Melody Lines
| 15m | |||
Red Riding Hood Area | |||||
19 | ★★ When the Levee Breaks RHV
An alternate start to WTLB that takes in good placements for natural pro before rejoining the original line at the 3rd FH. | 20m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★ When the Levee Breaks
Start just right of LRRH. Up the line with four FHs and pockets for cams or just run it out. FA: Greg James, 2000 | 20m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Czech Mate
| 20m | |||
Superliner Area | |||||
19 | ★ James Hardy 1000
Put up the weekend of the Bathurst car races, and named accordingly to annoy James. Abseil down and set up a belay in Voyager. Step right and head up the right corner crack. The crack is fused at the top. FA: 2002 | 15m | |||
19 | ★★ Anchovy Express
Up groove passing carrots. Nice wall take lots of small cams and wires. Double carrot belay Start: On halfway ledge as for Two Ounces FA: G. James & P. Bridges, 1998 | 30m, 7 | |||
19 | ★★ Superliner
The first arête right of the lighthouse fence. Excellent protection. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and abseil down the arete to Ring bolt belay. Climb up passing 10 Ring bolts , a couple of cams and a thread (120cm sling handy). There is a lower start only 5m lower for this bring x5 carrots FA: 2003 | 35m, 7 | |||
18 | |||||
Lighthouse Lower Bayside Lower East | |||||
18 | ★★ She Sells Sea Shells
A fun multipitch up excellent orange marbled rock. The easiest sport route on the lower cliffs, and conveniently right below the left end of Windjammer Wall. As with any route on the lower cliffs, good conditions are key to enjoyment. Keep an eye out for a breezy, low humidity day and the rock will be glorious. In other conditions it can be damp and slippery! As of June 2013 the final pitch has been partially de-bolted, so you will need to use trad gear on this pitch or finish up one of the plethora of classics on Windjammer Wall. First, get to the base of Windjammer Wall anyway you can (rapping down Man Overboard is probably the best). Walk to the far left end of the crag to where the vegetated ledge ends and a very narrow rock ledge begins (5m left of the base of the route Midnight Lightning and below the route Beside the Seaside). Edge cautiously along ledge for a few metres to find double rap rings below the route Beside the Seaside (p.66 in Climb Point Perp print guide). Rap 45m from these bolts to medium sized rock ledge about 10m above the ocean. There is a single RB to belay from. You will need two 50m ropes. You CANNOT use the anchors at the end of pitch 1 as a midway rap point as they are too diagonal and overhung to reach. The start of this route is actually shared with the start of the 2nd pitch of the old climb Hooray and Up She Rises (p.128 of the Climb Point Perp print guide.)
FFA: Rick Phillips, 2013 | 75m, 3, 10 | |||
18 | Return of the Whale
| 50m | |||
Lighthouse Lower Mariner Buttress | |||||
18 | Upon a Painted Ocean
| 55m | |||
18 | Albatross
| 50m | |||
18 | ★★★ Ancient Mariner
| 45m | |||
Peristalsis Area | |||||
18 | Rubble Without a Cause
This is the corner below where the lighthouse enclosure fence meets the cliff top. | 40m | |||
Rex Hunt's Area | |||||
18 | ★★ Moving Targets
| 30m | |||
Red Riding Hood Area | |||||
18 | ★★ Hooray for Hippies
Best to rap off carrots for Sieze The Day access, and stop on good size ledge (enough for 3) belay off two rings, start looks intimidating but its fairly easy crux at mid height and the very top FA: Rick, Paul, Gilles, Big G & Jonesy, 2012 | 28m | |||
18 | ★★ Krill-A-Whale
Start down to the left of the arete. | 30m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Trade Wind
The broken crack line left of Fat Man's Misery and R of Destructive Wombats. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch. FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun | 15m | |||
Centurion Area | |||||
18 | ★ Wolf
Steep wall 2m left of arete with not a lot of pro. Start: Left side of arete, exposed stance. FA: Roy Fryer, Owen McMahon & Cerin McMillan., 2000 | 15m | |||
18 | Typhoon
Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Typhoon is the crack in the right corner of the embayment. Abseil down the middle of the embayment until you get to a small ledge with a 2 carrot bolt belay. The belay is at the base of a seam in the slabby wall. Start up the slabby wall past 2 carrot bolts trending right. Then up the right corner crack. FA: Ivan Valenta & Robert Dun, 2003 | 15m | |||
Superliner Area | |||||
18 | whale watching cruise
The wide crack just right of battle cruiser. A #5 or #6 wouldn't be missed for the top half FA: Mark Feeney, 10 Jul 2020 | 14m | |||
17 | |||||
Lighthouse Lower Mariner Buttress | |||||
17 | Gaia
| 55m | |||
Lighthouse Lower Whalesong Buttress | |||||
17 | Lithgow Girls
| 45m | |||
Liquid Insanity Area | |||||
17 | ★★ Neptune
Appears to have been rebolted. Wide corner crack with carrots as well as some gear & thread opportunities. FA: Werner Steyer / Robert Dun / Kate Wright, 2004 | 15m, 4 | |||
Red Riding Hood Area | |||||
17 | ★★★ Little Red Riding Hood
Traverse out left and up, aiming for the nose. Up this to the top. There is a bolt hanger to get you past the fairly blank section on the arete. Double carrot belay on top. Start: Rap into the embankment just to the right of the lowest point in the lighthouse fence. FA: Steve Burns, Greg James & Bede Harrington, 2000 | 25m, 1 | |||
17 | ★★★ Little Red Riding Hood Direct
A much longer and better version of the original - starting from double bolt belay on small ledge on right side of arete, below the Levee Breaks terrace. Left and up quartz infused face (lots of FHs) to eventually join into original route at 15m at crack section (medium cams). Finish up original arete past bolt and cams. FA: Rick Phillips, 2013 | 30m, 8 | |||
Centurion Area | |||||
17 | ★★ Oarsome
Traverse left off ledge to hanging crack, great gear. | 20m | |||
Superliner Area | |||||
17 | ★★ Sunset Strip
The broken twin cracks 2m left of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Step left and up the cracks with good protection. FA: Ivan Valenta / Robert Dun | 20m | |||
16 | |||||
Lighthouse Lower Bayside Lower East | |||||
16 | Hooray and Up She Rises
| 80m | |||
Lighthouse Lower Atmosfear Wall | |||||
16 | Storm-blast
Juggy right facing open-book corner bordering the left side of the Atmosfear Wall. This route seeps for much of the year - with drainage coming down from the pools below the lighthouse | 45m | |||
Lighthouse Lower Whalesong Buttress | |||||
16 | Staircase to Dracophyllum
| 53m | |||
Peristalsis Area | |||||
16 | ★★ Peristalsis
| 40m | |||
Liquid Insanity Area | |||||
16 | ★ Grey
FA: Phil Georgeff, 1988 | 15m | |||
16 | ★ Whistle
| 15m | |||
Red Riding Hood Area | |||||
16 | ★★ Fat Man's Misery
The wide crack / chimney left of the Krill a Whale buttress. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch. FA: Robert Dun / Ivan Valenta | 15m | |||
Centurion Area | |||||
16 | ★★ Centurion
Left hand edge of ledge, up corner. Don't get drawn into the overhang. Instead, stay on the left face to place pro before the crux move. Start: Same start as RIR FA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1989 | 10m |