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Description

This sector is the one above the very nice looking rock pool. Rock here is pretty soild, has some very small crimpers to pull on. Most of the climbs here are sport.

Approach

The track brings you to sunny side. Turn right ( looking at ocean) and follow the coast for 200 m to this inlet. Gets shade until 2 pm as although it's on the coast it faces SW.

Routes

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Grade Route

The left hand crack on the left hand buttress. Yet to be gentrified with bolts.

Originally done on trad, this route now has 3 bolts to DBB. Left hand bolted route at crag, an overhanging finger crack with surrounding holds, up centre of buttress. Crack technique not essential.

FA: jason Piper

The right hand crack of buttress, some stacked blocks. Sports bolt holes but no bolts as yet.

Start at diagonal ramp 1 m L of stemming corner. Reachy start to a jug then up ledges to DBB

Up corner to ledge then up face to shared anchors with route to right

Up corner with finger crack to ledge then step right onto face and up thin seam, reaching left at top to shared anchors

The left most sport route. Thin moves to pocket then finish on the shared anchor with Tsunami Warning and Traversity. If you are short you will have trouble clipping second bolt so have someone place a long draw, or stick clip, or if you come off you will hit ground.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2006

Classic up the middle of the wall directly below anchors. Thin sustained climbing. Easily to diagonal then up through shallow scoops on right, then trend left to pocket.

FA: Tim Haasnoot

Starting just on the waters edge. Thin moves to 3rd bolt then finish left as for Traversity.

FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2006

Start at edge of pool, up and right to cross Traversity and straight up wall

Set by JP

Start just to the left of the pool under the start of Long Reach, but go right and up via tricky moves to cross Traversity and finish up crack

Another retro bolted trad route, start at the base of longreach, traverse right just above the water then up the thin seam and crack wall. Now has fixed hangers the whole way.

FA: Jason Piper, 2005

Start as for traversity but after clipping second bolt go up crack past 3 bolts. Walk back to shared anchors to the right

Start on the seaward side of rock pool on a pedestal and traverse left on rising diagonal to finish on Tsunami warnings anchors

From the start of Traversity head left just above the water

Start as for Traversity but go up arête

From pedestal above rock pool go straight up layback flake then continue up to DBB

Activity

Check out what is happening in Plant 3, The Rock Pool.