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FA: V Wills

The first climb right of the descent gully, facing cliff

Up a right facing series of corners and large ledges. Not a good beginners lead due to ledge fall potential.

Up corner and ledge just right of Formality, then straight up wall to HWL. This is incorrectly shown as MM in the local guide.

Up slab into corner just left of prow of storm front. Into groove and top out via flake to HWL

Up prow passing bolt ( currently missing hanger) to HWL

Easy blocks to base of hanging chimney. Hard moves to get into groove, then up to HWL

FA: John Wilde

Start as for WWJ in alcove and up to roof. At roof bridge and step left onto prow and hanging V groove

A direct start is possible, but the line starts in alcove as for WTTCI, but at the roof go right and then carefully up groove

Starts on the next buttress R of WWJ direct. Up face and arête, stepping left into alcove and up into small scoop. Technical face moves get you to the top though little gear after half waf.

Traverse in from the right as for Dopey Mick but head to shallow corner, up to ledges and then scoops to slopey top out. The route directly below the rap anchors so easy to top rope. A very large block came out in storms 2016, making this route a bit more sustained, and perhaps destroying the direct start option.

Traverse under small roof to shallow V groove. Place some runners in the horizontal then up and slightly right into groove and follow this to ledge. Step left to belay off DBB

Same start as for Dopey Mick but go straight up through overlaps to roof and then on to top. Good wire in shallow crack just over roof protects crux. Stay to the right of Dopey Mick up the blunt arete with good pods for gear. Can belay off DBB to left.

FA: V Wills & J Hollott, Nov 2011

Follow corner to small roof then go left following obvious flake, up past horizontal (#3 or4 cam), step slightly left and follow seam to top. Good pro. Trad anchor needed for belay.


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