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Prufrock

13

Seasonality

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Summary

Prufrock is a scattered cliff on the east side of the Dundas Gap road on the hill opposite that of the towers. The climbing is short but rock quality is good typical of the Grampians.

Description

Nothing to write home about but you can easily have a fun afternoon climbing with a great outlook over the Grampians and western plains.

Access issues

12/01/2017 - 1st 200m of access track in from Dundas Gap Rd has been cut away due to flooding and is only just passable with care in 2WD. Once past this point the rest is OK.

Approach

Head South on Dundas Gap Rd Turn left into Dundas Scenic Reserve and follow track until vague pull out on the left. Walk directly up hill to the scattered cliff.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The crack 1m right of the huge chockstone that leans between a pinnacle and the wall. This is the first wall you will see on approach.

FA: George Carlyle & Martin Lama, 1992

From the top of the chockstone climb the thin weakness directly above.

FFA: Jamie Armitage & Elise Armitage, 2003

Climb the face left of the chockstone veering right along the seam at the top. The bottom half is very contrived but the top makes it worthwhile.

FFA: Martin Lama, 1992

On the orange east facing wall. Start below the steep left facing corner on the right side of the face. Up through the corner and face above.

FA: Martin Lama, 1992

Start 1.5m left of PP. Up ramp to break, right around the bulge and up.

FA: Martin Lama & George Carlyle, 1992

Short steep L face of the alcove you pass on your descent from the other climbs in this area.

FA: Martin Lama, 1992

3.5M right of Hoodwink. Boulder straight up to a high wire in the vertical seam, move right and follow the obvious line to the top.

FA: Jamie Armitage, 24 Apr 2020

Climb is situated approximately 40 East of whispers of mortality wall, following the base of the crag. Right leading diagonal on deceptively slopey holds.

FA: Jamie Armitage, 2003

From the start of Hoodwink climb directly up the bulging wall.

FA: Jamie Armitage, 2003

The obvious corner slab then L through the roof cap.

FA: George Carlyle & Martin Lama, 1992

In to the scoop then up. The description in the SW guide talks about going right but the obvious line is pretty much straight up. The old tree has come down.

FA: Martin Lama, 1992

Up the face bast a BR to the flake and traverse 3m right and up.

A good line, up hanging Arete. A few PP wires were used on the FA - might need a bolt or two.

FA: Goshen Watts, 2007

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