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Back Country

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 47
26

Seasonality

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Description

The long length of cliffline situated between the Castle and Porange Wall.

Access issues inherited from Cania Gorge

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Approach

Walk in as per the Castle and keep following the cliff right until it is possible to cross the gully. Once you hit the cliff line on the other side keep walking right.

Ethic inherited from Cania Gorge

Trad climbers have been active at Cania since the 70's. Rob Staszewski claims to have climbed ~100 routes and Brisbane Rockies are rumoured to have have established a similar number. No doubt others have been busy there too. (Of course, all are encouraged to post their routes here.) It's likely that some routes currently being claimed have been climbed before. Please keep this in mind when bolting. There are plenty of unprotected walls ripe for bolting but please leave naturally protected lines to those able to climb them in trad style. That way everybody gets to live their dream and we hopefully avoid conflict with the old guard. - JL

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: zac & Josiah Hess, 14 May 2017

FFA: zac, James Dobson & Josiah Hess, 1 Apr 2017

Short like James' temper but pleasant like his charm. This delightful hand crack stays shady in the morning making for a perfect warm up to start the day.

FFA: James Dobson, Josiah Hess & zac, 1 Apr 2017

The first line on this face. Climb up through the jungle of vines then into easy chimney. Trad belay in cave.

FFA: zac & Josiah Hess, 13 May 2017

FFA: Josiah Hess & zac, 13 May 2017

FFA: zac & James dobson, 30 Apr 2017

Start behind the big tree. Up the twin cracks and into the chimney at the top. Climb to the back of the chimney and exit through the hole at back of cave.

FFA: zac & Josiah Hess, 13 May 2017

FFA: James dobson & zac, 30 Apr 2017

Wander up the face between the two trees, to the right of the wide start of "You Bumble That". Good pro down the bottom and up the top, but quite scarce in the middle.

FA: Brendan Coulter & Rachael Brock, Jun 2020

FFA: zac & James Dobson, 30 Apr 2017

The next four climbs start on a ledge 8m from ground level. Scramble up easy slab and tree to access.

FFA: James dobson & zac, 30 Apr 2017

FFA: zac & James dobson, 30 Apr 2017

FFA: James Dobson & zac, 30 Apr 2017

Offwidth corner starting from a ledge 10m from the base of the cliff. Graded 19, but Tony would say it's a 20.

FFA: Josiah Hess, James Dobson & zac, 1 Apr 2017

Back down to ground level and further along the base of the cliff.

The crack and juggy face just to the right of the Lizard Ledge.

FA: Josiah Hess & Brendan Coulter, Jun 2020

Starts from the ledge and climbs up the finger crack with plenty of face holds.

FA: Brendan Coulter & Josiah Hess, Jun 2020

Up face and arete. Starts from the ledge.

FA: Josiah Hess & Brendan Coulter, Jun 2020

FA: Michael Houghton & Dani Hess, Jun 2020

Up the orange face passing a cool little cave. Traverse right along ledge and continue up left trending crack.

FFA: James Dobson, Josiah Hess & zac, 1 Apr 2017

Keep walking along the cliff face, through a large tunnel, and across the ledge until you come to the obvious squeeze chimney Cerberus.

P1)18 P2)16

FFA: zac & James Dobson, 30 Apr 2017

The devil will meet you here! Climb the offwidth to the left of AOD to cave. Go right and up flake then continue straight up the wide crack to trad belay in cave.

FFA: zac & Josiah Hess, 14 May 2017

Avoids all the offwidths. Climbs the handcrack to cave and then up the flake. Instead of continuing up the wide crack above, hand traverse left then up thin corner crack. Continue up the widening crack with plenty of face holds to trad belay in cave.

FA: zac, Josiah Hess & James Dobson, 2 Apr 2017

Start as per Antivenom and continue straight up the crack and face passing 4 bolts.

Set by Josiah Hess

This unrelenting offwidth is sure to get your blood pumping. Take lots of big gear!

FFA: Josiah Hess, James Dobson & zac, 2 Apr 2017

The pleasant crack and chimney in the corner.

FFA: James Dobson, zac & Josiah Hess, 2 Apr 2017

Up the face to the right of Cranky Boys Corner passing one bolt and a tree on the way up.

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