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Northern Sector

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 10

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Highball bouldering

Access issues inherited from Pozieres State Forest

State Forest

Approach

Located right beside Donnelly's Castle. 2km along Donnelly's Castle Rd turn left onto forestry roads. There's a space for a car to park off the road at the crossroads at the northern edge of the sector. All tracks are regularly used by farm vehicles. PLEASE DON'T PARK ON THE ROAD.

Routes

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Grade Route

Highball Face

FA: 2017

Fantastic highball arete. Start on the steep right side, moving around to the left side at the first jug.

FA: 2017

The slab between the two boulders has numerous variations. The best is to start in the center and tend right to the arete.

FA: 2017

FA: 2017

Great techy climbing straight up the face to top out at the highest point of the arete. Start to the right of, and don't use, the big foot flake

FA: Tim Nicholson, 2020

Good high crimps from standing, up and over. If you need a warm up.

FA: Tim Nicholson, 2020

On the left wall in the corridor between the big boulders. Delightful highballing on the juggy granite patina. A nice warmup and also the descent route for the big slab on the other side.

On the right wall of the corridor 3m left of First Crack. Hardish start then great climbing up the series of long sidepulls

FA: 2017

FA: 2017

Use the flake at the bottom to start. Follow the crack to the top

FA: 2017

FA: 2017

Proud Arete. Use the flake to start at the bottom of the arete. Move quickly to the left side using pocket.

FA: 2017

Quality crimp testpiece up the middle of the short orange wall. Take your pick from the multitude of crimps and gastons. They're all bad.

FA: Tim Nicholson, 2020

Start on the right hand sloper at face height. Big move left to a jug, then up on great holds. The easiest descent off this boulder is by climbing down the wattles left of Vlad.

FA: Tim Nicholson, 2020

Stand start on good crimps at head height. Blast straight up the vertical seams. Descent as per Vlad the Impala.

FA: Tim Nicholson, 2020

Engaging moves up the slightly friable slab using the big undercling, while it's still there.

FA: Tim Nicholson, 2020

FA: 2017

The large Boulder has a number of top rope routes

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Activity

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