Wild Side

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 20mins
  • Photos: 19
  • Ascents: 43




Currently in development.
The location will be published here once the routes are established. Until then please be respectful by staying away and letting the developers do their work safely.


Aug 2019: QPWS lost control of a nearby burn off and the entire area has been completely wiped out. Recovery will take quite some time.


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Grade Route

The cliff face on the walk in to the crag from the northern end as you come around the corner.

Located between the Cornerstone Wall and Dry Waterfall Sector and set back on an upper tier, it's hard to fully appreciate the beautiful concave profile until you're on the wall. Colourful orange, black and grey rock with endless pockets in a sweeping curve up the wall.

Starting from the end of Dry Waterfall sector until the sharp corner at the beginning of Slipstream sector.

Thought provoking/stemming start on dihedral followed by nice moves onto the face then up through to jugs to finish. Great fun and a nice warm up route for the crag.

Set by Ben Barnes

FA: Ben Barnes, Finchy & Joni, 3 Jun

This sector starts from 'Endless Dream' and covers ~70m as it curves around to the Insanity Wall.

Surprisingly spicy (feels like a 20), a great test piece for a solid head game. From the midway ledge at the small roof there is no pro for 5m as the chimney narrows to offwidth, then get two pieces in before running out the last several metres of slightly overhung offwidth to a hanging tree belay. A little chossy and adventurous but this is the Wild Side!

Set by Finchy

FA: Finchy & Ben Barnes, 15 Aug 2019

Thin vertical start off the ground to a small slab section, then up to the beginning of the sharp arete. Many options here to continue; face, crack, side pull, layback, or the most compelling option is to go bold straight out on the corner of the arete hanging one leg either side. Plenty of holds but definitely not a gimme, you'll have to explore to find jugs, pockets and crimps. Continue up the arete and/or face to anchor. So many great moves and so much fun, a highlight for the sector!

Set by Ben Barnes, Joni & Finchy

FFA: Ben Barnes, Finchy, Joni, Beth & Peter Martland, 27 Jun

Some nice moves through the crux sequence at the start, then a cruisy slab to the anchors.

Set by Joni

FFA: Finchy & Joni

A tricky buldge crux to negotiate near the start. Don't be tempted to use the tree right of the buldge, if you do it goes at 18 instead of 21. The middle section is slab, then the final sequence to the anchor has some small sloper pockets making it a tough finish but great fun. Named for the two eagles dueling a cockatoo during route setting.

Set by Ben Barnes

FFA: Ben Barnes, Finchy & Jamie B, 6 May

This is a nice wall of many harder routes bridging the Slipstream and Pillar sectors.


A mixed route, up the nice crack till it closes right up, has 3 bolts where pro can't be placed, continue to the top using crack, face, and anything you can find.

Top out on the ledge and rap off the anchors above "Chickpeas and Lentils".

One of the hardest lines at Wild Side. Start in front of the small ledge at head height, then up the small front facing dihedral to a little roof (crux), climb out of the left roof corner and onto the main face, continue up on thin holds and top out on the ledge with the anchor set back on the left wall. A second pitch will come later.

Set by Glenn & Finchy

FA: Glenn


FA: Finchy


Starts immediately to the right of "The Long Road".

FA: Finchy

Start this adventurous route with tricky climbing- out of the prominent dihedral. Enjoy a fun hand crack up to a good rest in the large, yellow, open book-corner. Take a few deep breaths and tackle a brilliant roof encounter.

Possibly a second pitch to come later depending on navigating the rock quality.

Set by Finchy

FA: JSBC, 4 Feb


FA: Finchy

The most popular and interesting sector of pillars and unique 3D features with a good range of grades and styles to suit everyone. This is where Wild Side's journey began.

Possibly grade 13-15, follows the twin cracks behind the Mystery Meal pillar.

[FFA PROJECT - NOT AVAILABLE YET!] Crux start on super thin holds from the right arete. Gets progressively easier as you climb. Two ledges splits this climb into 3 distinct sections. A fun and yet somehow challenging route.

The trad start on the Mystery Meal pillar. Follow the crack on the right of the pillar (place your own pro) until the crack finishes, then traverse left onto the main pillar face and clip the obvious first bolt (roughly half way up the entire pillar). Follow the rest of the bolts up to the lower off anchors as per Mystery Meal DS.

Set by Finchy & Dimo Samoht

The direct start of Mystery Meal pillar, starts from the lower ground level at the middle of the pillar. Wandery crux start, climb over the buldge then head straight up the main face. At half way it links with the other two variants (the ledge on the left, and the crack on the right), just stay right for the 6th bolt and rest any chance you can 'cause it's thin and crimpy the whole way up!

Set by Dimo Samoht & Finchy

FFA: Dimo Samoht, 4 Feb

Starting from the upper ledge just right of Cherry Popper next to the big tree, clip the first bolt from the ground before stepping off the ledge and traverse right over to the crack, then leaving the crack continue diagonally up/right following the bolts to the main face with nice exposure, continue straight up to finish at the anchor. There is also a trad variant on the right hand side of the MM pillar.

Set by Dimo Samoht & Finchy

FFA: Dimo Samoht & Finchy, 5 May 2019

[FFA PROJECT - NOT AVAILABLE YET!] The crack that runs up the left side of Mystery Meal DS, and the right side of Cherry Popper.

This is a really fun climb on a unique pillar feature. A sustained thin and crimpy route, so rest as often as you can. 6 bolts + lower off anchor. Easy to top out above the anchor if you want to enjoy the summit for a while.

Set by Finchy

FFA: Finchy, Dimo Samoht & David Jefferson, 12 Jan 2019


On the Phallus Pillar: starts to the right of "Phantastic Phallus" on the upper level. A very hard route that links up and shares the anchor of "Phantastic Phallus".

FA: Glenn


FA: Finchy


The crack 2m to the left of: Take A Walk. Follow the crack as it takes a hard right and finishes then link up with Take A Walk and continue for 2 bolts before reching the anchor.

Crux start up a very thin wall, second half reveals some pockets and holds but don't be fooled it's sustained the whole way up.

Set by Glenn & Corey Low

FFA: Corey Low

FA: Corey Low & Glenn


The crack to the left of "Switcheroo".

1 18 15m
2 21 22m

An awesome little 2 pitch multi located on the upper platform to right of "Phantastic Phallus".

  1. 15m (18) Starts at the obvious dihedral corner, a fun and cruisy climb to the top though not as easy as it looks. Can be easy for some and hard for others.

  2. 22m (21) Climb over the big block at the first pitch anchors, clip the first bolt then follow the the wandering route of bolts around the wall diagonally up and right through the thin balancey crux. Then head up the main wall but take time to rest as it's sustained and the good holds aren't obvious which can take a while to find. The last two bolts are run out which brings a little spice to the head game.

Finish at the chain & ring anchor, then rap back down to the first pitch anchor. Excellent moves, good variety, great fun, nice exposure and views into the valley below.

Set by Finchy

FFA: Finchy & Dimo Samoht, 14 Apr 2019

A short but challenging route with crux start. Clip the first bolt on higher ground to the left, then come back to the right and start where the initials are. Dangerous drop off ledge to the right so make sure to clip that first bolt before climbing.

Set by Dimo Samoht & Ryan Moore

FA: Dimo Samoht & Ryan Moore

FFA: Dimo Samoht & Ryan Moore, 5 May 2019

This fun line starts by stemming across the wall for the first few metres before it turns into a rounded corner arete for the rest of the climb. Thin holds and reachy moves. A couple of finger/hand jams in a nearby crack may prove useful on the way up but stay on the arete. The last two bolts are spaced out further adding a little more spice. Feels like 21 but the moves go at 20 if you know the beta well. Belayer should stand low as a fall from a heavier climber may launch the belayer up into the left wall extrusion. A backstep onto the neighbouring Phallus Pillar is possible for those wanting a rest around the 2nd bolt.

Set by Finchy

FA: Finchy & Ben Barnes


Starts on the upper ledge to the left of "Airtight Alibi".

Starts on the upper level left and behind the main pillar. Climb the thin vertical crack in the dihedral and follow the crack as it starts to tend right at the tuft of grass passing large pockets to a slabby break. Continue up the small slab where the crack once again becomes a dihedral this time slightly overhanging (unseen from the ground). Take a deep breath and punch through the crux to a hanging tree belay.

Set by Dimo Samoht

FFA: Dimo Samoht & Finchy, 24 Jul 2019


Starts 2m left of Brown Betty at the short open crack that curves left. Continue up to the short slabby section and then up the main vertical face. Nice variety of climbing styles throughout the route.

Set by Ben Barnes & Finchy

1 15
2 22

Interesting rock features and varied styles of climbing make this route a fun little adventure. Can be done as a 2 pitch multi (recommended) or as a single pitch by skipping the first pitch anchors.

  1. 20m (15) Easy but quite fun! Stem to the first bolt then climb up the middle of the slabby section (stay away from the wall to the left side on the slab). Climb through the large hole under the huge boudler, then as you exit the hole turn around and clip the hidden u-bolt on the back of the boulder (reduces rope drag over rock). First pitch anchors are available at the back wall just after exiting the hole.

  2. 22m (22) Continue straight up the vertical main wall for several metres as it turns slightly slabby, climb across/over the mini rooflet buldge then up the side of the vertical arete to the anchors with incredible views and exposure! The final section of the smooth & thin arete makes this 22, the rest goes much easier. Can be rapped in one go using a doubled 80m rope (go directly over the back of the big boulder, not through the hole). Or for 60m-70m ropes rap down to the first pitch anchors, and again to the ground.

FFA: Finchy, Jamie B & Ben Barnes, 6 May


A mixed route starting with trad: follow the splitter up next to the tree branch till you reach the big ledge. Finish the route as sport continuing up on the left arete.

FA: Finchy



The last sector (and least interesting) of Wild Side on the southern end.

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