Routes in Central for selected grade

Sit start at big solid flake, traverse around boulder avoiding rail above and come into the one move chimney from a low angle, chimney up and out.

Sit start with both feet and one hand in crack, other hand on undercling. Up trending left to top out over left arete.

Sit start and up. Any number of variations. All fun

Sit start on low boulder, stand and work over right edge to finish with slab like problem

The arête ("3") can also be done as a nice stand start and mantle.

Starting on the obvious hold. The reward for getting the 'top' is a rock feature that seems to be perfectly carved out for sitting, like a bum hug!

A fun high problem.

Stand start up the crack - layback. Another variant.

Traverse from left to right. Ending at the boulders easiest descent route.

Starting a few metres right of "Lime", this highball is an easy but daunting climb near the top.

High wall start of "Super Pumpy", starting from jugs.

Perfect jugs. "Hold Me Tight" finishes here.

Starting just right of "Descend".

Slab with bad landing.

Directly across the river from the main crag. Access is a pain is the butt however it is a fun little climb and worth the trek. Well bolted and protected and also has top rope anchors.

Follow the line of cut off rusted bolts

Climb slightly right of the small tree and slightly left of Sweet Remedy. Follow the line of bolts up and slightly left. The crux is at the very beginning following up to easy slopers.

Start 1 mtr right of Dingos breakfast Finish. Straight up the white stipe feature in the rock. Top out and easy climb off.

Nice boulder start, the route start in line with the anchor ponts, no left or right. Bolting will follow

Follow the wall after the arrete, scramble on a visible ledge Be aware very slippery when wet You will find the belay bolts The route has been opened as LRS and to give access to the wall in an easier way than from the top there are belays points at the start, 9 bolts and a belay point with chain and a final belay point at 18/20 mts with quick links. The climb was not interested after the step wall and the rock was not good for bolting

Start: Right hand on pinchy pocket Left on side pull/crimp Top Out: Slopy jug

Same sit start as 'headless chicken'. Go right and ascend the obvious staircase arete. Over too soon. Quite enjoyable

Sit start from the base of 'headless chicken', traverse right (uphill) past a series of sketchy jugs (avoid: these will break), across some interesting balancey footwork

Standing start left of 'socialism'. (Usually where the sand stops and gravel starts). Follow short arete up a series of large, jagged pinches, jugs, and chicken heads.

Good for warming up. That's about it.

Maybe it Could be extended by traversing right (above the libertarianism/socialism overhangs) and finishing at the 'Athletes foot' bucket. Would be substantially harder for climber and spotter.

The twin cracks left of square overhanging arete. Up the crack through two bulges. Bridge up to ledge on right up to tree belay.

Climbs up the centre of the pillar just to the right of the large cave ending in a spectacular position on top of the pillar with great views to the Dam. To reach belay pull around lip of cave and traverse carefully across mossy wall to belay at base of left leaning corner. Climbs corner direct slinging tree at half height to juggy face above finishing on top of pillar. Downclimb easy face to rap off tree to clean.

From the ledge, follow the crack up to the Ledge. From ledge, keep left, following the easiest way up.

A pumpy warmup. Exit right and trad belay at the top.

The large corner to the right of the big orange face. Lots of different ways to climb so choose your own adventure.

Corner crack 2 meters right of Tony's Crack. UP the ever changing hand and fist crack. Bring big gear or be ready to run it out. Please respect the tree, its part of the climb. Tree belay and rap.

Climb up face and then traverse left along breaks to the arete and up.

Climb up block at back of gully, and take left hand crack that steepens eventually. Place high runners then move blindly out from corner on the left.

2m left of the vegetated crack. Through the middle of the small overhang at the ground then fairly straight up. A small (black or white) tri-cam was the first piece in some sneaky pockets otherwise your first piece might be quite high. Good nuts all the way to the top.

Starts at next large crack right of BU. Up wide crack, traverse left and pull over bulge (small wires). Up onto ledge, then right hand facing corner to top. Tree belay(s).

First crack on the L side of B&J's

in between B and OEF

Start in the middle of the two cracks. Climb the diagonal ramp and up jug ladder and face.

Start at The Forgotten Sole and move out onto the face and up past first ledge and jugs. Move left at the second ledge to finish up the arete.

The obvious chimney 8m right of Plato's Cave. Up this until it runs out, then follow crack to top, escaping right around ferns to tree belay.

Around the corner to the right from Tastes Like Pee. Start from the right crack up below averasge rock, then enter the chimney. Follow the perfect handcrack up the comfy chimney. Tree belay.

Start up offwidth layback, and follow this to a chimney-ish feature. Start from Little Dusty's tree belay.

Climb up crack on the right, through the tree. Crux is likely to be the dodgy flake. Proceed to chimney to dodgy tree belay.

4m right of Nice Smelly Tree Climb. Follow crack as it leads slightly left then up. Beware of bush with sticks.

Start from the boulder and step onto the well featured rock. Continue straight up on good holds to ledge. Rap off one of the trees or scramble down the left side.

Follow the crack on the right of the cliff. Scramble to the big tree (stay on belay) to rap down, or continue up to the next ledge for more great climbing. Access route to the three cracks ledge.

The left crack

The middle crack

The L hand crack directly above WMHGW the FFA commented to his second on top out that it felt like a Hard 16 and the second replied or soft 23

Pitch 1: Up Crappy rock right of corner to fun roof. Pitch 2: Fantastic diagonal hand crack. Pitch 3: Easy corner to slab and roof.

Starts under the roof left of Joe's Wall at a short wide slot. Hop up onto the ledge and traverse right past two bolts to a trad belay below the centre of Joe's wall. The sandy rock is easily avoided.

An exploratory trip into the upper realms of Big Scary. It would be greatly improved by a more direct first pitch.

1. 16, 15m. Climb the left facing corner. The first 5 metres are fine but it then degenerates into a filthy hillside, best avoided.

2. 13, 15m. Walk left along the ledge until it ends. Climb up to the next ledge on nice orange rock.

3. 16, 25m. Walk left again to belay at the base of the huge sloping corner that heads up towards the enormous triangular white roof. Up the corner to belay at the big tree at the base of the cave.

4. 13, 15m. Trend up rightwards to finish. Awful rock. But good practice for the top-out pitches at Ben Lomond.