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Castle

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Description

Quite high. 30 min walk. It is possible to walk off the eastern side and follow track around southern side to get off top.

Access issues inherited from Cania Gorge

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Approach

Park at fish hatchery below dam wall. Walk up ridge to the castle. Do not walk across dam wall where the no access signs are.

Ethic inherited from Cania Gorge

Trad climbers have been active at Cania since the 70's. Rob Staszewski claims to have climbed ~100 routes and Brisbane Rockies are rumoured to have have established a similar number. No doubt others have been busy there too. (Of course, all are encouraged to post their routes here.) It's likely that some routes currently being claimed have been climbed before. Please keep this in mind when bolting. There are plenty of unprotected walls ripe for bolting but please leave naturally protected lines to those able to climb them in trad style. That way everybody gets to live their dream and we hopefully avoid conflict with the old guard. - JL

History

View historical timeline

There appears to have been a marked walk up the castle at one time. There are some old signs and vague tracks.

Routes

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Grade Route

Abseil down to the large ledge just left of the finish to Amateur Theatrics. Climb the prominent diagonal crack up rightwards to the crux where it bends towards vertical near the top. Very sustained.

FA: Joe Lynch, Jesse Shanaggin, Min Sheppard & Tony Barten

The continuously technical overhanging thin crack immediately right of Something Wicked. Crux at the top.

FA: Tony Barten & Joe Lynch, 12 Jul 2014

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 31 Jul 2018

The arete left of Sunset Wall.

Set by Zac Trembath-Pitham

FA: Kel & zac, 1 Oct 2016

FFA: Kel, 1 Oct 2016

Set by zac

Totally worth the 9 hour round trip from Emerald (or even the 12 hour round trip from Brisbane)! A stellar line that meanders its way up an improbably blank looking face through just enough holds and some really amazing moves. Starts punching from the ground and just keeps coming all the way up to the spectacularly airy finish. Led as a pure sport route but there is additional pro for the run out sections if you so desire.

Set by tony barten

FA: Andy Freeman, Jun 2016

Starts 10m left of Cathedral cave. Follow the thin right-leaning crack to a small cave at 30m (belay possible). Step up right from the cave to an awkward mantle onto a ledge then traverse delicately left to the arête in an airy position. Easily to top.

FA: Joe Lynch, Tony Barten & Stephan Fannigan, 18 Apr 2014

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Ashlee Hendy, 30 Jul 2018

Memorable route with a memorable name.

Start on left side of Cathedral Cave. Up the juggy start to break, passing three bits of fixed protection. Long move off the break using jug and good holds, continue to the top swerving in and around another 10 pieces of fixed protection.

You are a mug if you don't get on this super superb climb.

Belay on tree back from edge.

FA: Lachlan & tony barten, 7 Jun 2015

Start up the crack on the right hand side of the cave. Climb up and traverse left to the centre of the roof. Still waiting for a red point ascent

FA: Michael Houghton & Brendan Coulter, Jun 2020

A brilliant sustained route in an exposed position. Climbs the obvious corner hanging over the right hand side of the cave. Take double ropes and lots of small cams. Dyno up on fig tree branches through the tunnel in the foliage until you hit rock and a welcome cam placement. Then climb up to and past a band of sandy rock (two bolts) to a stance at the bottom of the big smooth corner. This is where the fun starts. Climb the corner with increasing difficulty to the top where an escape, past a bolt, onto the right wall is possible. Then swing right again to a stance of sorts, then move up to a horizontal break and welcome runners. Figure a way across to the bolt on left. Then hand traverse further left for 3 meters on decreasing foot holds to gain another bolt. Hang in there its nearly over. Climb up past one more bolt and a horizontal break (good runners) to a grim lichen infested exit. Belay off trees. Lots of them.

FA: Tony Barten, Joe Lynch & Damon Hall, 2 Aug 2015

The squeeze slot between Cathedral cave and the Serenity Ledge

From the ledge, follow the crack up to the Ledge. From ledge, keep left, following the easiest way up.

FA: Oskar Kindbom & Gloeta Massie, 18 Apr 2014

Shares the start of Serenity. Up crack to ledge, where Serenity goes left. Keep climbing straight up where a committing move (crux) will gain you the wall above. Continue up the line and belay in a small recess. 2nd pitch (grade 15) follows the exposed continuation crack to top.

FA: Tony Barten, Joe Lynch & Stephan Fannigan, 19 Apr 2014

An old school classic, definitely not recommended for sport climbers. You will need to watch out for the odd loose flake and hollow block, not to mention the big sandy cave. This is the deep line that goes straight up the middle of the high, pale orange wall about 100m right of Firefly. Climb the steep groove past a short desperate layback section until you find yourself in the sandy cave. Bridge around the huge capstone, which has an ancient rap sling wrapped around it, and mantle onto a welcome ledge. The climbing steps up a gear here. Crank upwards on widely spaced holds and good gear to a good stance. Take care on the last moves into the belay cave as they are thin and quite run out. Rap off bolts. A second pitch awaits.

FA: Tony Barten, Joe Lynch & Alex Cristino, 26 Mar 2016

1 21
2 17

I’m not sure where the name came from, but it seems appropriate. It follows the prominent corner/chimney system midway between Gravel and Wine and Killer Whale. The rock architecture is pretty spectacular around here. Take big gear and wear a helmet.

  1. 30m. 20. Climb the glassy smooth body crack corner which soon narrows abruptly to an offwidth. The crux involves getting past this constriction. Once you have done so, continue up more easily on thin face holds to a comfortable belay ledge below the looming chimney. Led by Alex Christino.

  2. 25m. 17. Ascend the chimney until progress is halted by the ceiling. Then bridge horizontally out under the 8m roof in a spectacular position. Exit the ceiling on the left hand side and layback up to a good ledge. Watch out for loose rock here, especially as you are directly above the belay. Finish easily up leftwards to a big tree. Led by Joe Lynch.

FA: Alex Cristino, Joe Lynch & tony barten, 16 Apr 2017

1 26
2 10
  1. 30m. Climb the slabby corner guarded by a bold start. Traverse to the left most crack and fire up the 30 degree overhang on sporty crimps and fiddly placements until you reach a stopper crux just before the angle relents. Take a rest and continue up easy twin cracks and belay on the ledge.

  2. 10m. Up chimney then trend left on juggy slab.

FA: Josiah Hess & zac, 13 May 2017

To start this adventure either start on the ground ( best position for your belayer) and solo up 8m to ledges or start on the ledges, (same as killer whale ) take a deep breath and climb the overhanging coral on thread runners,till you joyously reach the first piece of fixed protection. Continue cranking though the crux's till you reach the slab. Put on your ballet shoes and tip toe up the slab till you reach a small roof, over this on jugs to gain a ledge. Bumble on till you reach the second roof, mantle over the lip and rejoice,take in some fresh air and run up the easy slab to belay.

Set by zac & Josiah Hess

FFA: Josiah Hess, May 2017

Airy climbing following the great holds up the obvious arête.

FA: Oskar Kindbom & Alex Mougenot, 25 Apr 2016

An obvious arête line until you reach a stopper crux high up in space. Grade 25+. Open project.

Set by Alex Mougenot

A steep, unrelenting face climb that goes straight up the middle of the gently overhanging wall left of Organ Failure. Take a set of wires - there are three placements after the last bolt. Double bolt rap station.

FA: Chris Frost & Joe Lynch, 24 Apr 2016

A pumpy warmup. Exit right and trad belay at the top.

Set by zac & Josiah Hess, 31 Mar 2017

FFA: James Dobson, zac & Josiah Hess, 31 Mar 2017

Located on southern side of castle. Stays in shade. Up lay back crack moving left around enormous chockstone. Bring 5 and 6 cams. Belay on top of chockstone.

FA: Joe Lynch, Tony Barten & Stephan Fannigan, 19 Apr 2014

From top of huge chockstone, climb leaning corner crack to top of pillar. Pull onto face with awkward moves up to a ledge. Up and around to top.

FA: Tony Barten, Joe Lynch & Stephan Fannigan, 19 Apr 2014

The overhanging corner right of Transplant Rejection.

FA: Joe Lynch & Tony Barten, 12 Jul 2014

1 19
2 24

An absolutely outrageous roof climb in a fantastic position. Start below the obvious 7 metre offwidth roof on the shady side of the Castle. You can't miss it.

  1. 15m. 19. Up the deep line to a triple bolt hanging belay just below the roof. Be careful of the rock on this pitch.

  2. 25m. 25M0. Traverse out along the roof to a couple of extremely welcome jugs at the lip. Two guide bolts either side of the lip ensure that the rope doesn't stray too far into the crack. After turning the lip, launch straight into a desperate 20 degree overhanging offwidth. This eventually narrows all the way down to a finger crack before the angle eases to vertical.

FA: Alex Cristino & Tony Barten, 26 Mar 2016

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 31 Jul 2018

Start to right of Divine under line of bolts up wall. Five bolts up wall to ledge. then pull through roof on jugs to mount sandy chock stone. Then blast up over hanging line on the left. Full rack required for top crack. 3rd bolt out of sight on ledge.

FA: tony barten & Joe Lynch, 2 Oct 2016

On the right of the divine wall the cliff breaks down to lichen covered walls with a few cracks up them. Here you will find Sherpas Tensing, the the first right hand corner from divine wall.

Layback or heel/toe up the corner with the wide crack on left, until you can move easily onto the face, then upwards to the large ledge. Rap off tree.

FFA: Susy Goldner, Jayd Blunden & Bernie Walsh, 11 Aug 2014

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