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Access issues inherited from Cania Gorge

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense


Park along road to hatchery at around second power pole. Walk to creek. Follow cow tracks along creek till vegetated creek below cow tracks cliff. There is a clear crossing near junction of creeks. Once across creek up hill aiming to join cliff under Minarete,

Ethic inherited from Cania Gorge

Trad climbers have been active at Cania since the 70's. Rob Staszewski claims to have climbed ~100 routes and Brisbane Rockies are rumoured to have have established a similar number. No doubt others have been busy there too. (Of course, all are encouraged to post their routes here.) It's likely that some routes currently being claimed have been climbed before. Please keep this in mind when bolting. There are plenty of unprotected walls ripe for bolting but please leave naturally protected lines to those able to climb them in trad style. That way everybody gets to live their dream and we hopefully avoid conflict with the old guard. - JL


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Grade Route
1 21
2 14

Start left of arête. Bridge up to bolt, then hard slab/wall move to right. continue past crux to ledge. Move around to right and up twin cracks. At next ledge move around to right again put your heart in your mouth your trust in a god of your choice, step over void and up to next ledge on holds that only get bigger. Watch out for wasps on the way. There are two rap belay bolts on ledge. Pitch 2 Pull onto wall beneath corner. Once established on wall over ledge move right again. thank a god of your choice trust to the rock and up up up. Rap off tree behind and left. 60 meter rap.

FA: Min Sheppard Tony Barten, 12 Aug 2014

The big rightwards facing orange corner at the left hand end of Cow Tracks cliff. Bridge up the smooth corner until you can reach left to a flake system. Climb this and step left onto the arete to finish. Rap off fixed gear.

FA: Joe Lynch & Tony Barten, 14 Jul 2014

Steep airy face climbing on excellent rock. Starts at the leftwards leaning thin diagonal crack 15m right of Manu's Corner. The protection is better than it looks with small cams and wires. Step off the block onto the wall and move left to the corner. Move up to the steep diagonal crack and place the crux runners from good holds on the right wall. Go straight up the vertical line to the big ledge and traverse a long way left to belay at the tree above Manu's Corner.

FA: Tony Barten & Joe Lynch, 13 Jul 2014

Strenuous crack climbing on excellent rock. Starts 15m right of Hang on to Me at a wide crack. Climb the steep wide crack until it closes down to a seam. Then layback up to a bolt and crank past it to jugs. Continue up the steep airy groove until it is possible to step onto the right face. Wander diagonally up rightwards to belay below a steep corner.

FA: Joe Lynch, Tony Barten, Pedro V & Yulid Shorrock, 3 Oct 2016

Classic hard crack and face climbing. Starts midway between Gizmo and Mustang Wanted. Up the steep line to a bolt. Desperate cranking takes you to a good ledge. Up the nice groove to finish at the tree.

FA: Tony Barten, Joe Lynch, Yulid Shorrock & Pedro V, 2 Oct 2016

Starts 15m left of Secrets Found. Boulder up the thin crack then follow the crack and face above to a rest below an overhanging hand crack. Up this using the strength of ten men and one puny man. Then finish easily to the mid-way ledge. Rap from the tree.

FA: Joe Lynch, Tony Barten, Min Sheppard & Jesse Shanagin, 10 Jun 2014

Start under the wide crack about 30m left of Personality-Free Zone. Off balance moves to gain wide crack. Climb desperately up the offwidth (bring large cams) then the overhanging jam crack above. Finally, take to face climbing to belay on ledge at base of large chimney. Rap off the fixed gear. The deep chimney above is sure to be exciting but has not been climbed.

FA: Tony Barten, Min Sheppard, Jesse Shanagin & Joe Lynch., 9 Jun 2014

1 21
2 20

The huge corner system that bissects Cow Tracks. Much better than it looks. Take big gear.

  1. 30m. 21. Climb easily up the vegetated line until you reach a body crack. Slither desperately up this and continue more easily to belay on a stack of boulders on the half way ledge. Led by Tony Barten.

  2. 35m. 20. Up the short offwidth (crux) and pull up nervously over the protruding blocks, which are actually quite solid. The remainder of the pitch is a long chimney system involving excellent rock and protection. Led by Alex Cristino.

Start at the prominent orange streak bordered by two thin cracks about 100 metres right of Personality-Free Zone. Climb desperately up the steep thin hands crack until it ends at an overlap at 10 metres. Move left and crank steeply up the thin corner until the angle eases. Finish easily to ledge and belay at tree.

FA: Joe Lynch, Tony Barten, Min Sheppard & Jesse Shanagin, 9 Jun 2014

Start 5m left of Q. Ascend rightward leaning crack till it joins Q.

This is the major left-facing orange corner system starting about 20 m right of The Living Dead, and is initialed 'Q'. Climb up the thin hand crack corner, which is harder and steeper than it looks, until it widens into an overhanging chimney. Avoid this by hand traversing right to a big ledge on the arete. Belay here. An inviting face crack provides an obvious second pitch. However, as daylight was fading, we traversed up right to the tree and rapped off.

FA: Tony Barten, Joe Lynch & Alex Cristino, 4 Oct 2015

1 18
2 17

Quite good. The rock is mostly excellent. About 20m right of Q is a major orange corner that arches over into an 6m roof. An ancient #1 Friend stuck in the roof provides a landmark. And no, you don’t climb the roof crack. Not at this grade anyway.

  1. 25m. 18. Climb the technical corner until you are about 2m below the roof. Then traverse out left to the arête on good holds and mostly good gear. Once established out there, step boldly up to gain the roof and layback easily around to the left to a spectacular semi-hanging belay. (led: Joe Lynch)

  2. 15m. 17. Straight up the corner, which is harder than it looks, to a belay at the huge tree. Rap off. (led: Alex Cristino)

Start on the orange wall 20 m right of Cherry Bomb at the thin crack with a bolt about 10m up. Desperately up to clip bolt, then continue desperation to pass bolt. Gain the shake out jam. Then onto some fancy jamming before moving right at ledge to double bolt lower off. Watch the sting in the tail.

FA: Pedro V & tony barten, 16 Apr 2017


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