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Access issues inherited from Cania Gorge

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Approach

walk in to cow tracks then walk left along cliff

Ethic inherited from Cania Gorge

Trad climbers have been active at Cania since the 70's. Rob Staszewski claims to have climbed ~100 routes and Brisbane Rockies are rumoured to have have established a similar number. No doubt others have been busy there too. (Of course, all are encouraged to post their routes here.) It's likely that some routes currently being claimed have been climbed before. Please keep this in mind when bolting. There are plenty of unprotected walls ripe for bolting but please leave naturally protected lines to those able to climb them in trad style. That way everybody gets to live their dream and we hopefully avoid conflict with the old guard. - JL

Routes

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Grade Route

The short right facing corner about 30m left of the cave near the left hand end of the cliff. The bottom half has a diagonal crack on the right wall. The top half is a wide jagged corner crack. Useful mainly as an access route to the big ledge above.

FA: Joe Lynch, Tony Barten & Damon Hall, 24 Jan 2015

Climb the big corner using every crack climbing technique in the book, and then invent a few more. Approach it by climbing Isn't Anything.

FA: Tony Barten, Damon Hall & Joe Lynch, 24 Jan 2015

World class. A spectacular line and a brilliant climb. It's the obvious crack system bisecting the big wall just right of the lunch cave.

  1. 17m. 20. Clip the bolt via the tree follow the line straight up to belay at the ledge. This is popular as a route in its own right (FA: Joe Lynch, Tony Barten, 20 Sep 2014)

  2. 32m. 24. Climb the overhanging line straight above. This involves an overhanging thin crack section (crux) and then desperate wide finger crack before you get a well earned rest on the ledge below the big body slot. The slot is sustained all the way the top. (FA: Alex Cristino, Joe Lynch, Tony Barten, 4 Oct 2015)

FA: Alex Cristino, Joe Lynch & Tony Barten, 4 Oct 2015

Climb the cranking thin locks and face holds to the top. Hard to stop and place runners.

FA: Tony Barten & Joe Lynch, 20 Sep 2014

They came in their hundreds (well, 7 or so) at easter 2015. It was rumoured Super Crack was going down.........

First to try was Tony Barten, bravely managing to do the first 8.6586 meters of the crack and pushing off a huge loose block. When the dust had settled along with Tony, Cheyne Hobbs stepped up to the plate, he pushed on and established a new high point. before gravity sucked him down.

Alex Cristino was next to lay a patch. Valiantly he fought upwards into the unknown. As he eased on upwards the rain started pouring downwards. From a position were the crack opened up he was heard to utter, "I need A big cam". But he didn't have one. He is a tough nut but the crack was tougher that day. Eventually he gained the summit although with a rest or three. The aura of the crack was broken but not beaten.

Unnoticed to all a quiet ( ha ha ) man was watching, Omri was his name. I will have a go he said. Up on the wall he did unleash his craft unto the crack. He finger locked and jammed for an hour and a half, seeking meagre rests where he could, until spent he was forced by the cruellest of fates, fatigue, to take a rest on a placement 3 metres from the top. Omri was beaten as well.

And so the first continuous ascent awaits. Will it be a crafty old fella or a new age gym junkie. Who knows? But I want to be there to bear witness. Tony Barten.

Above Snakeskin Crack. The thin crack running up the wall. If you cant find it go back to your sports crags. Start in the cave. Up left side of cave going right to the crack proper. Blast up the line. Would get more stars but we are limited by the site.

FFA: Omri Bahat-Treidel, 2015

FA: Alex Cristino, 3 Apr 2015

Instead of going left out of cave pull directly through roof.

FA: Alex Cristino, 4 Apr 2015

An intimidating and unrelenting twin crack corner in an exposed location.

  1. 8m. 14. Climb the wide crack behind the finish of Snake Skin Crack and belay at the bottom of the corner.

  2. 25m. 21. Up the steep corner.

FA: Joe Lynch & Tony Barten, 20 Sep 2014

Start at the arête right of Snake Skin Crack. Up passing four bolts. Small cam after second bolt. number three friend in a pocket to right of small roof just below top. Move left to finish

FA: Tony Barten & Melinda Sheppard, 4 Mar 2015

Excellent rock, excellent protection and sustained climbing. Recommended. Climb the slabby corner that suddenly steepens to an overhanging twin crack corner at half height. Tricky exit. Finishes at a huge tree.

FA: Joe Lynch & Tony Barten, 19 Sep 2014

An outrageous steep offwidth on perfect rock in a spectacular position. Up the black slabby crack to a ledge. Then climb the thin hands crack up the steep orange wall to an unlikely rest. Then launch into the overhanging offwidth with the help of a well placed jug. Struggle upwards, forcing your way past a constriction, to reach a desperate thin hands crack that takes you to the exit.

FA: Alex Cristino & Joe Lynch, 4 Apr 2015

FFA: Joe Lynch, 4 Oct 2015

Climbs the white flake corner system just left of a prominent arete. Hard bridging up the fingertips crack corner leads past a thank god bucket to a rest. Then climb the double hanging flake corner above and finish easily to the big ledge.

FA: Joe Lynch & Tony Barten, 13 Jul 2014

FFA: Josiah Hess, 10 Jun 2017

The body crack just right of the arete right of White Witch. Face climb the bottom half of the crack, step into the chimney and grunt your way to the top. Tree belay on big ledge. It awaits a second pitch.

FA: Alex Cristino, Joe Lynch & Tony Barten, 28 Mar 2016

The beautiful thin hand and finger crack about 2 m left of the corner. It finishes at a belay station below the imposing orange headwall.

FA: Tony Barten, Joe Lynch & Alex Cristino, 28 Mar 2016

The wall above the crack. If you want to do the back you have to go up tonys crack. From the belay on top of Tonys crack. Pull through roof passing bolt. More bolts to top and a no 1and 4 b.d cam. Belay bolts on top. For full value do both climbs in one pitch.

FA: Hamish Tony Barten, 12 Jun 2017

Corner crack on the right of Tony's Crack. Go up to ever changing hands and fist crack. bring big gear or get ready to run it out. Please respect the tree, its part of the climb. tree belay.

FA: Yulid shorrock Pedro V

FFA: Yulid Shorrock, Oct 2016

Offwith, body squeze crack. Its been cleaned but no attempt just yet due to needing multiple big pros. Y.S

Crack going through steep orange overhang crack next to the offwith. Climb into ledge and blast into finger crack to overhanging boldge and finish up on finger crack, tree belay.

FA: Yulid Shorrock & Pedro V, 21 Oct 2016

Crack next to What He Said. Thin crack with slaby mid section. Natural gear belay and wrap down from five bells tree.

Go upnline till break then step left to finish up the last 3 meters of Whatever He Said. (If you forgot your nuts) Natural gear belay and wrap down from five bells tree.

FA: Pedro V & Yulid S, Oct 2016

Start just bellow the tree 1 meter right from What he said. Follow thin crack till break, with interesting crux right at the end, bring small nuts and big cajones. Natural gear belay and wrap down from five bells tree.

FA: Pedro V & Yulid S, Oct 2016

Climbs the black groove about 10m left of A Fine Romance. Up the deep line, past some vegetation, to a desperate black v-groove finish. Finish on the ledge immediately above with the big tree.

FA: Joe Lynch, melinda shepperd, Cheyne Hobbs & Tony Barten, 5 Apr 2015

Up the corner crack/chimney to the horizontal break formed by the overhanging headwall. Be careful of possible loose blocks around here. Then squeeze left along ledge to tree belay. Please avoid this route: the first ascentionists inadvertently upset a barn owl living in the deep cleft.

FA: Tony Barten & Joe Lynch, 13 Jul 2014

An absolute classic involving sustained, well protected crack climbing on excellent rock. A must-do. Starts just to the left of J Crack ledge beneath the overhanging orange wall. Up the crack to the roof and undercling right around two successive overlaps. Then go straight up the jam crack to a ledge. The final short steep corner above has a hard exit (crux).

FA: Joe Lynch, Min Sheppard, Tony Barten & Andy Freeman, 26 Oct 2014

Closed Project please stay off.

Climbs the J-shaped crack on the upper wall. An exciting outing in an exposed position. Boulder straight up the orange wall past a bolt to join the crack. Continue boldly up to the tree and launch up the wide crack corner above. At the point where the crack suddenly steepens, place a huge cam (#6 BD) above your head, and traverse right across the wall on small edges to a rest on the arete. Climb straight up (avoiding the obvious loose block) to rejoin the original line which is followed to the top.

FA: Joe Lynch, Min Sheppard & Tony Barten, 25 Oct 2014

Start beneath a bolt in a steep black slab 10m left of Turquoise Hairstreak. Up to stance on slab. Runners possible on left. Clip bolt before moving on to ledge. Traverse left along break, go up crack to jugs and clip the second bolt. Left around arête then straight up the arete and wall above on large jugs and assorted chicken heads. Double bolt belay on orange wall.

FA: Tony Barten & Min Sheppard, 25 Oct 2014

A classy finger crack layback corner. Up the steep corner with increasing difficulty, past a couple of overlaps, until the crack thins right down and you can reach right to a monster bucket. Swing out onto the face and climb straight up to the tree belay.

FA: Joe Lynch, Andy Freeman, Min Sheppard & Tony Barten, 25 Oct 2014

Climb up block at back of gully, and take left hand crack that steepens eventually. Place high runners then move blindly out from corner on the left.

FA: Tony Barten Min Sheppard, 14 Aug 2014

1 19
2 22

A desperate, smooth overhanging chimney in an outrageously exposed location.

  1. 30m. 19. Start below the steep wide crack on the right wall of the gully to the left of Minarete. Up gully to the start of the crack proper. Up the wide crack (bring big cams) until you hit the steep wall, then go left up easy ramp to ledge and tree belay.

  2. 30m. 21. Climb the stunning orange corner, mantle over the chockstone and establish yourself in the tight chimney. The fun starts here. Slither upwards past two bolts avoiding a few dubious blocks in the back of chimney. Traditional gear leads onto the third bolt, engage what ever body parts needed to move horizontally in an amazing position to a double bolt lower-off just below the cliff top.

FA: Joe Lynch, Alex Cristino & Tony Barten, 27 Mar 2016

An alpine style adventure route, with a couple of hair-raising traverses.

  1. 30m. 19. As for No Country for Old Men.

  2. 20m. 17. Up the big orange slabby corner for about 7m. Scoot left across slab at half height to a rest on the arete. Move left again into the deep groove and up it to belay beneath the imposing black crack through the headwall.

  3. 20m. 12. Traverse left across slab to arête then bite the bullet and launch straight up on scary (but reasonably solid) rock to top.

FA: Tony Barten & Joe Lynch, 21 Sep 2014

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