Routes in Sunshine Coast for selected grade

Tiny outcrop of rock on the left, easily walked past when approaching the boulders 'proper'. Sit start, balancy rock left to the crack and up. Surprisingly good for the size of the bloc.

Starting from the low right ledge with hands on the large shelf, 1 easy move left to gain the face wall, exclude all but the first right hand decent foot, straight up the face without the large left hand or the right arete. thin but it's all there. Eliminate problem.

Start with hands beneath obvious overlap, no left or bottom footholds. Slap up the arete and mantle out.

Sit start on undercling, round the corner from 'The tide is high'. Sit start, up and mantle.

Sit start, use some obvious sidepulls and a high foot placement to reach an obvious jug over your head, descend by dropping down left and walking back around to the right

Stand start with hands on slopers furthest right, slap up and mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Stand start off the rock as per Flash or Splash but instead head up and right through obvious line to top out.

Not sure whether a harder sit start may be possible in drier conditions.

Sit start on large jug, pull up your feet and shoot for the lip then mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start with Rh on crimp, Lh sloper. Move up.

Start with left hand on undercling and right hand on right arete. Work your way up the spine feature.

Stand start using crack/ edge, moving up and onto the rounded arete. Climb onto low angle slab to finish.

Up small features to rest then up to balancey bulge, over to anchor.

Up small crack balancy crux, good moves.

Follow crack up to gain a rest then move to balancey finish, stick clip first bolt if needed.

Climb boulder in the grotto to get to the first bolt then up features to a nice balancy slab move to gain anchors.

Stand start, right hand on side pull, left hand on crimp. Move straight up and over the bulge. Big jug/pocket is in but stay out of the corner. Top out to the left of the tree.

Sit start as for Forest Yellies move up to pockets then traverse left along rail and top out above knoblets.

Start inside back of cave climbing out left along shelf to mouth of cave, climbing along mouth of cave to obvious finish jug on the right end of cave, when looking at cave from outside

Start outside left hand side corner of cave, climbing along mouth of cave to finish jug

Start same as Subconscious climbing though middle of cave to end around where Mind crosses roof

The ledge the boulder is perched on is not in. Sit start matched on rail.

Line of rings to ledge, crux boulder problem at top.

Start: Left side of buttress.

Up face to ledge then top. 3m Right of Coral Reef.

Black streak to the L of FOTOS, six RBs to lower-off. Crimpy for three bolts, before moving left into corner with pumpy climbing ensuing.

Five UBs, joining Spike at last bolt. Hard start.

Very thin start (direct), quite sustained to the third bolt. First bolt can be gained from the R if you don't have what it takes to do it direct. Five UBs to DUBB.

Clip first bolt and head straight up, or slightly R of bolts. Sustained climbing, very set sequences.

Now a complete sport route - fully bolted. Fairly hard start, then work out on good holds and heel hooks, clip bolt with chain extender before emerging to crux, gaining the corner. Six UBs to DUBB.

There's not many roofs you can get a hands-free rest on. This popular testpiece is located 5m L of WOF and 1m R of arête below overhanging, triangular prow below roof. Up and out the prow (awesome jughandle threads) then move into roof flake while copping that rest with a styleboss leg-hook maneuver over the top of the prow. Clip RB on lip and then power up the wall above (RB) to ledge. Wade carefully through the lichen up and R to the recently installed rap station.

Climb Woosah until you reach the large ringbolt where you would normally move left to the arete. Instead move right and up into the corner, before moving back left to finish up Woosah at its last bolt. Confusing, I know.

The middle of the three routes on the platform. Steep jug pulling for three bolts, until a tricky move right to topout. Keep moving up the slab, staying on the left side of the corner feature, finishing with some gritstone style trickery to anchor.

Previously the softest 22 in Queensland. Apologies to everyone who ticked this as their first at that grade. Still, it does offer some of the best rock at Brooyar. 6m R of TDC. Recently rebolted with three FHs to lower-off. Has a great mono pocket to play with.

The orange arête 1m L of TDC. 2 FHs to ledge, then up past a third FH to the top. You may wish to stickclip the first.

In between TFTF and BED, three FHs to chain. Herb retrobolted an old saul squires solo route.

"Big, evil, overhung crack thing". The R-leaning overhung corner to ledge, then up crack to top. A bit grungy.

Left of the crack is a nice orange corner and face, now rebolted with RBs. Start in the crack corner. Up hard start on gear. Up into beautiful orange corner (wires). Clip bolt on R and step onto the excellent face. Up with #1.5 SLCD and RB to rooflet below black face. Up L onto this huecoed face (cruxy) clipping final RB (don't clip too early) and then up to the top (Chain).

Hard start, then nice easy balancy climbing

A tough off-balance crux sequence leads to easier headwall. Three FHs to anchor.

Route or boulder problem, its a fine line.

Start: Right end of ledge

Links into the classic grade 13 'The great barrier reef'.

Start: Start at furthest protruding part of ledge at DBB.

This is the climb you do when you don't read the guidebook and go the wrong way on Cold Fusion, and end up linking up the top of ICSJRHV instead of MD (pretty sure I'm not the first to do this). Fun though.

Intricate and interesting climbing.

Start: Start just left of boulder, almost directly under chains for 'Predator'.

Stickclip FH then boulder up overhung wall trending right past BR to mini roof and ledge. Thin moves continue up a faint corner past a BR & #1.5 SLCD to finish at chains.

Layback up corner on natural gear to overhung arete. Clip FH and climb up and left to jug on lip. Clip BR and mantle ledge. Up face above to chain.

Novelty traverse across lip of cave starting on far right. Route gets steeper and steeper until final fun roof move. Rap chain.

Starts on L arete of the crag and goes up then out R to shared station. Five RBs to chain.

The line of huecos in the roof, perpendicular to the lip, starting as far in as possible on an undercling pocket. Work straight out the pockets to where it blanks, then throw up R and move up to the top flake, then (as for TJNNFT) out this to the jug 1m before the lip.

R to L traverse. Total bum dragger, bring ya shovel. Lay down start as far R as you can, traverse L across the great slopers, pull up where logical and traverse into the flake. Monkey out roof and top out or just drop off the jugs on the top face. Perfect example of the absurdity of bouldering.

Start 2m right of Will there be fries with that? Powerful and challenging start up past 4 RBs to shared anchor.

Start 2m right of previous route. Balance your way up to stance followed by pumpy moves then keep moving through the French fries crimpers and grease trap slopers.

The overhanging arète on the left side of this sector.

Rune - Sit start

Rune

Sit start on undercling, reach on up, then funky moves to victory.

Low sit in the small cave using the undercling and sloper, traverse left and join into Juguars Perch.

Sit start with right hand on pinch and left hand in undercling. Head straight out topping out slightly to the right.

Sit start with hands in sidepull and undercling. Make your way up to finish matched on the jug.

Sit start on the right hand arete. Ride the arete up and finish matched on the same finish hold as Mists of Time.

Sit start matching on rail. traverse left staying low and top out on left side of the bulge

Sit start on same holds as "nucleus" except hands are switched around. move left and finish on "Thunderstruck"

Sit start L on big crimp and R on lower big crimp. climb straight up to top out

Lay down/sit start matching on large slopey hold. you can start with your feet anywhere (above, to the right etc). Throw to rail and travers left. Top out to the left of arete.

Sit start in spooky cave next to rotten tree. Start on pinch and rail. Up and slightly right staying under the bulge. Top out directly above Is That A Knife?

Stand start with right hand pressing the bump, Lh high mono with thumb press. Up the slab to mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start with both hands on the rail under the overhang. Up and right to gain the ledge, mantle.

Cynthia Cormier Coulombe

Sit start, matched in the slopey pocket. Up to gain the scoop, mantle.

Climbs the left side of the slab. Starting centrally with one hand on each nubbin, up on nubbins and baubles.

James Shapter

To the right Of Magic and Alchemy. Start with the most right nubbin, move up staying directly above the starting hold to a small feature up high before slapping over the top, finishing left of the highest point on the boulder.

A hold has broken reciently, this is potentially much harder now.

Oliver Rickford

Stand start with both hands jambing the crack in the middle of the boulder. Straight up the break to top out.

As per Lilo but continue to traverse right along slopers to the victory ledge. Mantle.

Oliver Rickford

Sit start low on the arete rail, slap up the arete then bust out right to the break. Try to avoid standing the the ledge. Straight up to a slopey mantle.

Start on RHS of the wall on the sloping ledge. Traverse L along the break to the end. One move up and L to finish matched on the ledge.

Sit Start same as Direct Action but move right through the juggy slopers/pockets. finish on crimp rail half way up the wall.

Sit start in the same place as Down to a Sunless Sea. Go left into the big vertical crack and then up. Boulders below are out.

Start: 3m right of 'Tripitaka'

Stickclip recommended. Four FH's to anchor shared with Tripitaka. Optional small wires between second and third bolts.

... of a Jug. So big in fact that it'll be full of water after rain! Enjoy the shower.

Start on next platform up right from What we do in the Shadows.

Definitely stickclip first FH to avoid an ugly fall as you strain your tendons on the first moves. Hang on then it's all over. Cruise jugs past second FH. Finish up OC's last FH and chain.

Two close together first bolts, then fun, tricky moves off sidepulls to top.

Start: R of Brannigan's Law.

Long and pumpy climbing with great views.

Start: Up the first 3 bolts of 'The Final Piece' then walk up the slab to a anchor bolt with a single ring, straight up from here to access Overseer.

Start 10m left of Troposphere P1 on flat ground on the track leading towards Slider Gully.

1. 30m 21 - Up fairly easy ground past 3 bolts to the first ledge which has a hanging on top of it. Up 2 large steps to a bolt and a couple of jugs. Haul yourself upwards on easy but impressive feeling moves to a cardboard feeling jug. Clip the next bolt and work your way through the crux moves. Clip another bolt and then traverse left and up to the obvious ledge to the belay anchors. A tight but bomber 0.5 camalot protects the traverse for the second.

2. 28m 19 - Start out on easy ground up to an orange corner. Work your way up through the crux moves and a few more bolts. There is room to place another bomber 0.5 camalot to make the next section feel less run out, then up past 2 more bolts to the anchor.

Currently, the best option is to rap from here, although you can climb up through the bit of bush and link it to the mixed climb NGFG.

Start: At the black corner about 3m R of where the track angles steeply uphill.

Climb the corner past two FH's and a couple of bits of good natural gear to anchor on steep wall.

Furthest left bolted route on the wall. Seven FH’s and a medium wire

Start: 2m R of 'Liquid Skin' and 3m L of obvious sickle crack. Some small gear below headwall, up this, passing 4 FHs to shared chains. Often wet.

Rising out of the ashes of the 2014 tibro fires.

1. 25m (19) 5FHs: Start at the big tree at the apex of the path (just to the right of CC). Veers left for first 2 bolts then straight up past 3rd FH to old rap chain on ledge, then continue up and R past 1 FH to DBB.

2. 25m (15) 7FHs: Nice moves keeping L of the FHs all the way up the black wall to the big belay ledge and DBB. Sustained and enjoyable climbing.

3. 20m (21) 8FHs. Up slabby climbing past 3FHs to good rest before powering up the crux section consisting of 2 small parallel chimneys to nice foot ledge. It's not over yet, then balancy, crimpy climbing for 2 bolts and easy moves to DBB.

Rap down the way you went up.

4m downhill of Insurrection. Stickclip. Up past three FHs to join original. Perhaps a bit harder?

Take wires and cams to #3, with a strong emphasis on small cams such as aliens.

1. 35m (18) Easily up L trending ramp to white corner (FH). L up this and R onto ledge above bush. Traverse R up slab (FH) to vertical section. Carefully place gear then crank up this to easier ground. Two close FHs lead up slab and over small rooflet to rap station.

2. 30m (18) Take lots of small cams. Up and slightly L 5m, then almost directly L 3m past gear slots. Move up past FH to gain corner on R side of the big orange roof. Through corner to rest ledge above roof. Straight up from ledge without falling for 5m to FH, then a big traverse back R above your belayer to solid black rock. Up past FH to rap station under blocky arête (60m rap to ground). Mind rope drag on this wandering pitch.

3. 40m (21) Cruxy right off the belay. 11 FHs up exposed blocky arête. The arête terminates into a wide gully with a rap station on L. Peregrine Falcons nest just 10 metres to the right of this pitch so best to avoid in breeding season (August to November).

4. 40m (19) Climb the nice wall on L side of gully (four FHs) to an easy slab. Run up this (two FHs and gear) to where it steepens. Two FHs and a big hollow flake allow you to get across the chasm to ledge and rap station.

5. 60m (2) Climb up onto vegetated ridge. Walk L until it's possible to scramble up onto the next terrace. Walk all the way back R along this to find a FH on the wall.

6. 40m (19) An unlikely but excellent start past the FH leads into a groove. Carefully up this to ledge on L. Up the headwall slab above (four FHs) to rap station.

Either scramble up 50m to summit and walk off, or rap the route.

This route climbs up the left wall of the big corner, it starts directly below the half way anchor there is a pulled expansion bolt as a marker. Small gear and two FHs sees you to the half way rap rings, straight up following FHs and solid gear placements. Make you way over tricky bulge and blast straight up, rap station on the right. A 60m rope will get you back to the ground in two raps.

1. 30m (21) Start at line of five FHs up wall just right of Short and Sweet. This is technical slab weirdness on great rock. A green cam/friend protects the final section to the anchor. Move right at top to find anchor, or if you're doing pitch 2, make a trad belay on big ledge just before the last steep bit of the corner on Short and Sweet.

2. 15m (21) The first FH is up on the left wall and is a stretch to clip. Don't mistakenly use the first bolt of Adrenaline Gives Me Gas (further down in corner) or the first FH of Walk the Line (further up right in corner). Swing up left on jugs to gain hanging juggy wall and second FH (shared with Walk the Line). Continue straight up passing another two FHs through steepening terrain to join Circlet at its third RB. Finish up this to lower-off.

First climb you come to in the cave. Up flakey orange rock on slopey holds, to hard move around bulge. Finish 3m up head wall.

Start to the left of Ishoni. Looks unlikely from the ground but is much better than you think. Starts off the left end of the ledge with easy climbing on medium sized gear then FH's up steep headwall. Absolutely outstanding after the start.

To start, climb the first two pitches of either Blabbermouth or Sunburnt Buttress.

1. 53m (21) Follow the first four FH's of SB until it traverses left. Instead of traversing, head straight up for three more FH's then traverse left below obvious short corner to FH. From here, go up passing five more FH's trending rightward. Belay is up and left from last FH. Taking half a dozen long runners is recommended to reduce rope drag on this long pitch.

2. 24m (19) Step left off belay then up passing six FH's. Eases off in second half.

3. 32m (14) Clip a FH then gradually join the 5th pitch of SB clipping it's last few FH's.

Pitch 2 and 3 have a couple of optional trad pieces. To finish, either continue up last pitch of SB (10) or rappel Blabbermouth (3x60m raps) or El Scorcho (3x60m raps)

First two bolts of Suburban Sprawl then head right to finish up Domestos. First lead ascent is unknown - but has been done several times.

Low start.

Start 3m R of 'Biyatch Pants' at featured arête.

Slab up the arête past RB to top (retro BR). Swing straight up onto headwall (RB). Committing, sporty climbing straight up the headwall passing two more RBs to rap station on ledge.

Start at the thin crack running up the blunt pillar 4m to the R of 'Keyhole' 's leaning pillar. Climb straight up the pillar with difficulty, then traverse L to the ledge below the start of 'Pocket Full Of Kryptonite'. 2 FH's and small cams.

Marked "SK'. An impressive route for back in the day. Hard and desperate climbing up the thin shallow crack leads to easier ground and the good crack above. Be careful with protection down low.

some rust forming on the first bolt which is a good 7 metres up, loose 30kg chockstone to the right of first bolt, super dirty, should be cleaned up, glued, rebolted or chopped