Routes in Sunshine Coast for selected grade

Traverse right from good holds on left of overhanging wall, staying below the top rail until the steep arete, mantle out. Stand start.

Sit start in the hollow underneath the boulder with right hand on the prominent undercling and left on the very average side-pull using feet on the left (don't dab on the supporting boulder). Short sequence of powerful moves on terrible holds to gain 'jugs' for an awkward mantle over lip.

Fantastic set of moves that add up to maybe 1m of climbing.

Sit start Rh Meat wrap, Lh on mini jug.

Sit/low start on sloping edge on the overhanging arete. Crimp then smash the top for a finishing mantle. Summon the force for inspiration.

Sit start with both hands matched in the large pocket. Move up and slightly right for interesting sequence to top out.

Thin and techy, just R of Dreamcatcher. Five RBs to DBB. Possibly harder to onsight than the ever popular Little Wednesday. Beware of the red ants.

A unique route for Brooyar, 8 UBs to DBB (long slings recommended for 3rd and 6th).

Start up crack chimney feature on the right of the crag. Six RBs to lower off in centre of roof. Semi sloping campus.

The L route with two RBs. Sustained crimping and tech footwork, the mantle is interesting.

Start on the right of the cave under the overhang. Up to the first bolt then traverse left under the roof until you can pull over. Second to clean.

Starts 10 metres right of JG in corner. Start easily on rings trending right. Clip 6th bolt with a long sling and move out left to the arete. Climb arete to anchor at top of the wall.

Left hand variation, joining back at the crux of Woosah

1m L. Burly climbing straight up the pipeline feature (three UBs). Hands on the L flake, feet will find their way R. Join TGD at the lip. Then up to recently installed rap station

A fearsome-looking short corner perched up in space, but actually pretty fun. Lead up the short lower tier past a BR (long sling) to the ledge where the route is initialled "TD". Up into the overhung corner (two FHs and fixed wire). Lean out and clip bolt, before facing a mega-move R to a jug on the arete. At least the fall is clean! The route was originally done pulling on this bolt at 22 A1 (probably the go for your seconder unless they enjoy prussiking). Straight up the juggy wall above past one FH and a couple of bits of trad.

The right most climb at Wolf's Lair. Approximately 2m right of 'Awesome Wells'. Thin slab and pockets to chain.

1m right of 30c. Huge move from the cave then up the jugs. Add a grade for shorties and subtract for tallies.

Stand start left of the arete with left hand on pinchy jug and right hand sidepulling. Work your way up and top out directly above the start hands.

Oliver Rickford

Stand Start on the right hand side of arete. Magic your way up to top out.

Tamati Kennedy

Sit start on the juggy ledge/pocket. Traverse to the right into the slimps (slopey crimps) and re-adjust your feet and body position before the final throw to the top crimp.

Stand Start on the slab to the left of the arete, through funky slab moves somehow stand up on the good foot in the middle of the wall and finish matching the high crimp over the bulge. Topout is possible but scary.

Sit start with both hands in the undercling on the left hand side of the boulder. Up you go!

Sit start directly under the prow with hands in underclings. The lower block for feet is out, use the prow only. Slap up and mantle out.

Kai

As for Figurehead but keep traversing along the top to finish as for No Port.

Sit start as for Figurehead, then traverse up the left lip of the boulder, mantle at Staring at the Water's Edge finish.

A hold has "appeared" at the crux making it much easier.

Shares the same 2 first bolts as TMMM then continues up and right. One obvious crimpy crux then eases off substantially.

Four FHs to chains. Some long and powerful moves on good holds.

Start: R of TMMM

Start just to the right of The Vampire Master on some small crimps. Prepare your fingertips for some unbelievably small holds through the middle. Take care at the second bolt as a ground fall is possible.

Start up SANM for 3 bolts then head right across TMMM and into EMCBP, and finally finishing up last two bolts of TVM.

Superb moves on mostly big, flat holds. Five bolts with a late crux to a lower off. Gareth's done it cleanly up, down, weighted down, in slow motion, and with bare feet... Seriously.

Start: Just R of 'Madder'

Climb up the gully at the right-hand end corner of the crag. follow up 'The Final Piece' to its 5th bolt. From here step right and then follow a further 4 fixed hangers up before joining back to The Final Piece anchor.

Same as for Overseer but follow the right most line of bolts.

Same as for Procrastisquealer but traverse R and finish up Madder.

Same as for Procrastisquealer but at the 6th bolt of Squealer bust right again across Madder and then power through the crux of Howler and up this.

Start Howler and join Madder for its last bolt.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere', but scramble carefully (roped) up L to ledge to bolted belay station.

Steeply up orange rock past four FH's to bivi ledge. Up ramp, leaning out to clip two FH's before committing to the wall proper. Increasingly pumpy moves past the final two bolts sets up an interesting exit.

Start: 1.5m R of Maponus at smooth orange streak.

A high pull-on jug, then perfect finger slots. A devious crux and continuous sidepulling will have you feeling really happy to pull on to the finishing ledge with anchor. A deliciously curvy conquest on sublime, marble-like rock. Originally done with three bolts - has proved more popular now with five.

Start beneath the corner - it's the final bolted line.

The bouldery crux move from big sloping edges will try hard to spit you off - be warned! 30m to ledge on rap.

Climb through obvious steep bulge in centre of wall to low anchors. Six FH’s

This route climbs the impressive overhang situated at the top of Tibros East Face and is a test piece of the mountain. This route was originally done in five pitches with the first and second split.

1. 30m (22) Climb rightwards across the diagonal crack with good pro to a crux transition move from horizontal to vertical around an angular block to get established at an awkward stance, then up vertical crack to belay stance, parallel with the ear.

2. 25m (24) This pitch traverses right with little pro. To make things safer, place a high runner (5m) above pitch two's belay. The pitch moves rightward from the belay and heads for the hanging ear of rock 15m away. Stay under the ridge of overhung rock and place a runner (#.5 with long sling so the second can practice the crux before unclipping ) in the only obvious placement about halfway along the traverse. Thread the pierced ear with a long sling (5m). Up the corner formed by the ear with small RP's, then into the roof with small cams and wires. Steep technical and wild climbing. DBB over lip.

3. 25m (23) Crack climb up the overhung bowl on excellent rock to the summit.

Start a few meters left of Strange Fruit. One of the most serious routes in Australia, " I thought I was going to die for sure " Kim Carrigan. On the crux Kim describes being 10m run out from a #0 rp which sounds like a rather absorbing experience.

1. 20 m (23) up corner on great rock to natural belay stance, with pretty good gear.

2. 20m (24) Continue straight up through the overhangs making your way into runoutville. One of the most serious pitches in Queensland requiring a very capable and bold approach. DBB. 50m rap or dodgy traverse over right to Trojans anchors.

3. 10m (19) To the top.

15m left around the corner from Four Seasons starting in mini cave. Boulder rightwards past first bolt to easy ground up right on trending ramp past two more FH's. Straight up through some wild sections separated by good rests eventually creeping your way right across a balance ledge to Somebody Else's Weirdo's last bolt and then anchor. Watch your rope doesn't get caught as you swing around the arête.

Start up Punk's Not Dead past two FH's then move left across ledge to base of shallow groove (below white-ish streak). Straight up to knobs and a good rest. Reach left and blast up steep wall to gain a hanging ledge before the anchor.

Reachy crux on marble like rock. From knob reach right (not left) to clip FH. Another few metres of hardness (FH) brings you to the lower-off. Avoid using blocks above anchor! Basically follows white streak up right side of this wall.

Start same as for Hyperballad to its second FH on the bulge . Head out right (FH) then straight up on great rock clipping a further three FH's to a ledge with lower off.

Starts on the prowl at the back of the cave between "Crikey" and "No Membership Required" finishes up on the clipping jug and anchor for "Crikey". Do a chin up to start and off you go.

As for the first 4 bolts of Acid, but instead of breaking left, continue up the rightmost line of bolts past 3 more FH's to Acid's anchors. Some discontinuous, but enjoyable and intriguing climbing that skirts under the top of the ravine. Worthwhile, and soft for the grade.

Start 3m R of 'Summer Holiday'.

Climb slab passing RB to beneath large roof. Clip RB above. Strenuously crank over the roof (to the R of the RB) with little finesse to clip RB. Wipe forehead, then move up and L to join 'Summer Holiday' at its third bolt. Note that the final bolt on 'SH' is a BR so a bolt plate is needed.

Start 2m L of 'Bourgeois Bullshitter'. A stonking line which is being loved to death. Pretty soon the holds will be worn off. Boulder to a high RB, then a hard move follows. Once on the small ledge, clip an RB then fire up the demanding face past another 2 RBs. Bridge above the last RB for 5m (natural pro) to ledge and anchors. Rap off.

Original carrot bolts replaced with ring bolts December 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Start: Left of TOYH.

1. 45m 19 Up the slab, passing 2 BRs to chains - runout crux on the slab, at end of pitch!

2. __m 24+ Move right to 2 FHs & the hard roof/headwall, then move left.

Stand start in the middle of the boulder on the left high slopey sidepull and low right hand undercling. Throw to the lip and top out on mega mantle.

Sit start matched on crimp on face. Head straight up only using the slopers, try not to stray too far into It's So Dirty, then mantle directly over the start holds.

Start as for It's So Dirty Low Sit and traverse across the lip. Mantle left of Mega Mantle.

Early mantle on Mega Mantle is a bit easier but sweet.

Sit-start under the small overhang compressing on either side. Slap your way up to top out.

Paul Bucher

Stand-start with left hand side pull and right hand crack. Fantastic moves and footwork to gain the lip for the mantle. Grab a spotter!

Sit Start on the crimp underclings. pull off the ground and big throw to the good hold on the face. finish standing on the ledge.

Sit start using crimps in the scoop, head up slightly left and top out. Gets blank and spooky!

Directly up the centre of the wall to the jumping spot, resisting the temptation of the big holds to the side. Nice deep water underneath! (check it anyway) Climbing out of the water directly beneath the route gives it its grade,

Step on from the left of the pool and hand traverse the high seam with poor foot holds (dry feet work best!) to the ledge beneath the jumping ledge. Careful in the first few meters where its quite shallow.

Up into the steep little cave, then across left to a hard move to gain the protruding jugs. Motor up the very overhanging arete on killer shark-fin jugs. Now rebolted with U-bolts.

Batman start at the anchors over the lip above kneebar too far. Reach up and grab those starting slopers out left and start from there. Heads straight-up and finishes standing on huge ledge.

Start with the boulder problem SI, and then ramble easily up R to belay on a cool ledge in a really good position.

Start as per Crazy Horny till fourth bolt (long sling), then move sharply left to the second bolt of CBTF, finish up this.

Popular. Bouldery start then steep thuggery. The horn sadly broke changing the sequence. Many people's first 24. Back jump to clean, lower from second bolt.

Start just to the left of Yoink. By far the most popular route at the crag. Now rebolted.

On the very R end of the cave. Climb crack on UBs to wacky "rest" on arete. Continue through the steep stuff to shared anchor.

Start in the roof under 'Kapow'. Grab the lip and squat over to finish at hueco.

The obvious pillar. Belay in scoop on the slab. Stick clip 1st bolt. Step onto the wall L of first FH. Up using the face an arête. Committing and tricky moves to gain ledges. Then use the arête and face with thin feet onto the anchors.

First 2 bolts of Water Line then bust out left and up punching thru a few cruxes. Most excellent.

The following trad lines are found 30m up the hill on the cracked wall. One set of cams and two packs of wires is sufficient, all routes have shared bolted anchors.

Begin just right of and behind big tree. Bouldery climbing up steep leatherback wall on good gear. Good gear in roof crack then traverse right to join tuvula and finish up that.

Face and arete L of ER crack. Accessed from P1 of FitS. 5BR to anchors. Diagonalling left, this diminutive route packs a whallup. Committing blind moves down low, tricky all the way to the anchors. Mind the tree.

9 BR to anchors. Deceptively steep face and blunt arête. Pumpy. Not for the feint of heart with a little funky rock and an engaging crux. Stick to the line and no traversing way off R into the cave.

Shares the start with it's twin, then L onto the ledge. Direct up following the vertical seam through the crimpy face. Maybe a tad contrived but does not climb the easy stuff out L. Trend R above hard section to join the top of DDR.

Start carefully up arete to big hueco and first bolt. A hard mid section leads to sustained and committing climbing all the way to the chains. Don't mistake the last bolt with the mallion on it for the finish - double bolt anchors at the top.

Named after an angry former inhabitant! Start in the back of the black cave. Burly climbing through cool hanging features. The sustained headwall still packs a bite!

Direct start of funnel web, stick clip second bolt and start up crack in middle of wall. Continue up staying on left hand side of bolts. Great climbing.

L of STL. Tough crux, but fall-offable all the way!

A very proud line with classy climbing that follows TSSS to the anchors, veers R, then straight up aiming for the beautiful orange headwall and arete at the very top of the cliffs. Veer R up the final arete, ignore the distracting bolts just to the left. A few things to note: 1. To climb with minimal drag backclean the first bolt, use extenders for last BR and anchors on TSSS (or clip the last bolt on Tim Burton Tunnel and backclean the TSSS anchor). 2. It’s not possible to lower to ground from final anchors using a 60m rope so clean this climb in two pitches or use a 70m rope. Climb named with respect for the peregrine falcons that nest close by, so as much as this is a great climb, it should only be climbed outside of the falcons nesting season.

The super steep arching corner that travels under Vertigo's crux and finishes at Left hands anchor. Featuring multiple cruxs'and mind bending positions this climb has it all. Starting in the overhang left of Vertigo's first bolt, overcome the horizontal roof and up the groove to tackle the blank V corner. Continue along the arch with plenty of gear till arriving at difficult moves transitioning from 40 degree overhang to 20 degree slab and through to anchor. Set up a top belay and second to clean. Take two racks of cams, set of wires, and lots of extenders. 28m free hanging abseil to ground.

Easy to begin then steep white wall with the coolest underclings at Ninderry. Traverse L at the obvious slopey break, then over the big block and up the black headwall to anchors.

This variation is much better than the original which starts up the choss to the R. Up Harvey for 3 bolts than diagonal up R. A couple of kneebars for reprieve then punch directly up the crimpy black headwall at the top. Do not climb the dirty black corner out L to avoid the top crux.

Technical and sustained with multiple cruxes. Stay true to the line, particularly above bolts 4 and 5, where committing moves to thank-god jugs keep you honest.

11 U-bolts. Straight up. Hard sequence through the overhangs.

11 u-bolts. Power thru first overhang, very tricky leading up to second overhang.

Exciting variant finish to 'Pre-Flight Departure' or 'Hobo Erectus'. Go R.under roof and up arete. U-bolts.

Sit start at the base of “snake hole”. Left hand on under cling which is entrance to “snake hole”. Right hand on sloper block. Bump right to shared start with “sand in my eyes” and then head up. Finish over mega horn block and top out. Toe and heel hooks are important for this one.

Start in the crack as for Spooge, Follow the seam and crimps to the right until you can gain mantle to ledge. Holds above the seam are out.

Sit-start in ceiling crack to a R semi-gaston and crimpy undercling to progress to the small jug ledge. From here you will work through the face crimps to end on the high flat ledge (matched). This is an original Darren line; we added a sit-start for a wonderful and flowing rooflet section.

Sit start matched on slopey rail about 1 metre left of C3's start. Head out through small roof to crimps on headwall. Finish matched on jug.

Sit start 2m left of Fins In straight up to undercling then up to nice sidepull out left to nice jug and up to better jug. finish standing in the good ledge.

Sit start on good holds, move to and match sloper plate. Throw Rh to large vertical pinch. Finish matched on good hold above the pinch.

The original 5 in Dazzas guide eliminates the left crimp on the sloper plate with hands matched in the middle. Pure sloper power. Throw Rh to pinch then finish out on good hold right of the pinch.

Traverse both ways. Follow the crack seam under the rooflet. Graded 3 in the original guide. Current V grade is interperated.

Sit start on crimps. Directly up to crimps over bulge then bust out left before committing throw to same finish as Blockaholic.

B4 in Dazza's guide. Spotters recommended.

Sit start 1.5 metres left of Blockaholic on protruding corner block below vertical seem. Work your way out left on slopey jugs to vertical wall then crank up on pockets and crimps. Finish on big right hand pocket about in line with Blockaholic's finishing hold.

B9 in Dazza's guide. Originally finished by traversing to the right.

Start on block to right of Red Tide straight to crimp at the edge of the roof then straigh up to break and traverse left to finish as per Red Tide.

Same start as Darkest Corner, but instead of climbing right, continue straight up the face.

Sit start matched on crimp rail below the banana pinch. Punchy moves to mantle. Climb at low tide

Oliver Rickford

Linkup. Climb 'Kidney Cave' to the third bolt, then move left to finish up the last two bolts of 'Future History'. A good way to avoid the crux of KC.

Climb starts 1m right of Old Gregs Crack. Pockety line marred with a bit of chose down low.