Showing all 31 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Frog Buttress East of the access track | |||||
26 | ★★★ Hard Nose DS
Not the original, but even better than Hard Nose. Step out L a little lower than the original to a square cut hold on the arete. Clip the carrot bolt and proceed to wobble up 4m of balancy desperation bringing amazing movement and positions to hand. FFA: John Pearson, 1989 | 25m | |||
V6 | ★ Pils problem
Straight up block below Whistling Kite using both aretes FA: Pil, 2002 | 6m | |||
26 | Future Tense Direct Start
The original start for Future Tense which grants the full 26 points if you're up for it! Take the desperate line 1m to the R of BST which is so thin and under protected that it has never (?) been repeated! FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981 | 40m | |||
Frog Buttress West of the access track | |||||
26 | ★★ Self Expression
Truly insane climbing up a desperately thin seam. Wobble and shake and whimper your way up on good RPs, small wires and one crappy piton. Strenuous, technical and classy. This was an awesome and inspiring effort by Kim Carrigan. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 20m | |||
26 | ★ Sadhana
If your arms are still capable of basic function, this should help to finish them off! The direct finish to GPC features classic climbing up a delicate arete. From where the crack goes R, head straight up the arete past a lone bolt. Run it out to the top. FA: Scott Camps & Kishi Takamori, 1988 | 10m, 1 | |||
26 | ★★ Chook Fear
Bridging, layaways and levitation are all required to get up this imposing, blank corner. At the top, step R to the tree. An Olympic rhythmic gymnast may be able to bridge across to WO; as for normal people, attempting this could destroy more than just your pants! FA: Charlie Creese, 1981 | 20m | |||
26 | ★★ Wild One
A very strenuous outing and an excellent section of flared hand jamming. The start has two options, both hard. You can start up CF for a few moves and then traverse in - possibly easier but less well protected. The direct start up the seam is nails but has good gear. Brilliant sustained climbing sees you to the tree on the ledge. Although Rob Staszewski and Rick McGregor attempted the route in various styles, it was up to Kim Carrigan to free the route by the direct. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1978 | 20m | |||
26 | ★★ Inhibition
Hard and grunty climbing on one of the sexiest looking aretes to be found. Start off the little ledge above WC then slap, crimp and wobble your way up past 3 FH to the top. Avoid the temptation to grovel off L and you will be rewarded with some beautiful exit moves! FA: John Pearson (early's), 1990 | 20m, 3 | |||
26 | ★★ Petulance
Start as for Tantrum. Climb up about 8m and step L onto the arete. Follow the line of bolts to the top featuring gut-wrenching exposure, and quite classy arete climbing. Some parties start up Deliverance instead. FA: Chris Frost | 45m | |||
Flinders Peak (limited access) Summit Ridge Buttress | |||||
26 | ★ 36 Degrees
From 3rd BR on proj, move R to next line of BR. FA: Kim Carrigan & Cate Webb, 2002 | 35m, 8 | |||
Flinders Peak (limited access) The Secret Cave | |||||
26 | ★★ The Stolen Jigsaw Puzzle
Link up. Climb the funky pumpy first 6 draws of Stolen Generation up to the blunt arete( long draw for the win). Then bust left into the top 2 fixed draws of Wet Jigsaw puzzle and freestyle to the anchors to finish the puzzle. FA: Rob Saunders, 19 Aug 2018 | 15m, 9 | |||
26 | ★★ The Vallecula Groove
In the steep grotto on the right side of the cave. Start way at the back, grunt thru the roof, and traverse the left wall to shared anchors with TVM. Belay bolt on wall adjacent slab. FFA: Kenny Walker Set: Kenny Walker | 8m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★ The Terminal Connection
Link up. The natural antithesis of French Desire, climbed in large part because of the name. Climbs Terminus of Desire's crux then traverses across the top of the shield (long slings on either side of the shield) to finish up the finale of The French Connection. | 20m, 7 | |||
26 | ★★★ The French Connection
Start from the big belay ledge down hill from Saxicoline. Stick clip the first bolt, climbing upwards to a good rest. The wall gets “off vertical”, as you make your way across the “shield” feature. Classic moves all the way, punching upwards to the high anchor. Set: Antoine Moussette, 2008 FA: Nate Foster, 2014 | 20m, 9 | |||
26 | ★★ No Knees
A delicate, bouldery crux down low, leads into great technical climbing joining into Fingertips and Mountain tops (skip the double bolt hangers on the left- and put a long draw on the 6th). Climb this all the way to the anchor. Set: Glenn Ferguson, 3 Jan 2016 FFA: Cal, 10 Jan 2016 | 22m, 10 | |||
Flinders Peak (limited access) Sanctuary | |||||
26 | ★★★ Freddy Squintoff
Linkup. Power up ‘Cursed Energy’ through the burly roof, moving right via a link up bolt into ‘Harold Boon’. Classic Flinders funk! FA: Alex Turnbull | 25m | |||
26/27 | ★★★ Good Energy
Start as for FS or CE. Climb FS to the 2nd last bolt (long draw here) and keep trucking right, across the colourful face. The anchor is under the lip of the Thunderdome; top out and check out the second cave above. “Good energy opens projects”! Set: Jimmy Blackhall, Mar 2023 FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Apr 2023 | 25m, 10 | |||
26 | Fred - Extension proj
Climb HB to the rest at the anchor (don’t clip it). Step right clipping the right bolt, and move up, tackling a short boulder problem. Closed Project Set: Fred Dorrington | 25m | |||
Mt Barney Mt Gillies | |||||
V6 | ★★ Short and Steep
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Mt. Greville Red Wall | |||||
26 | ★★★ Turbo Express
Swing hard left from the belay to FH and up into corner to FH. Committing moves to FH and good rest. Sustained layback and gaston moves straight past 5 FH. Exit right on jugs to rings. FA: Glen Foley, Aiden Dem & Craig Pohlman, 2003 | 25m, 9 | |||
Mt. Greville Little Springfield | |||||
26 | ★ Fat Toni’s
Bolt line to the right of quicky mart, uses all its own holds. Tricky beta to a brutal exit out the roof. FA: 2015 | 16m, 6 | |||
Mt May Super Insanity Wall | |||||
V6 | ★★ Triangle Eye
Sit start on good edge and side pull left. Blast straight up using good undercling to finish on triangle wrap feature matched. | 3m | |||
Mt May Slopey Wall | |||||
V6 | ★★ One Shoe Magoo
Stand Start on LH side pull jug and Rh rail- both in the crack. Punch up left and then straight up on slopers and edges to a big move that guards this one. At first this line seems difficult with the slippery holds- but it’s all about hip positioning and foot work. This line eliminates all holds of the V3 and was also first climbed with only one climbing shoe on. FA: Angus Davidson, Aug 2020 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Teaspoon Of Concrete
The old school high ball line centre of Slopey wall . Stand start with good holds and move up the very slopey ledges up then steep wall. A surplus of pads and and teaspoon of concrete is needed to top this rig out. FA: Simon Moses, 2004 | ||||
V6 | ★ Teaspoon of concrete sit
Sit start slightly left of where the stand starts. Match start with a few moves up then move right joining the horizontal sloped ledge and up to finish as TOC FA: Brennan Bast & Glen Hayford, 16 Dec 2021 | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Crawl Away
Sit start low on two opposed slopers and climb directly up through edges and a small pinch. Finish matched on the break. FA: Josh | 3m | |||
V4/5 | ★★ Fed With A Silverspoon
Sit start on jugs in the crack and climb the slopered ledges. Finish on the lip matched on a triangle hold. Steeper than you think! FA: Jimmy Blackhall, May 2020 | 3m | |||
Mt May Super Solaris Wall | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Staring At The Sun
Sit start in the back left corner of the cave (there's sometimes a pool here when it's been wet). Straight out on obvious positive edges then big slopers to finish in the round fist hole on the lip | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Thrill Issues
Technical, balancey climbing straight up the perfect rails to a terrifying finish. Found about 40 meters from the upper caves. FFA: simon Moses, 2005 | 5m | |||
Hamarney (Private Land) Main wall | |||||
26 | ★★★ Princess Harmarney
2m left of EYC. Up through the prominent and intimidating blank face and then through a steep finish for glory. Absolute class the whole way. FFA: Chicko, 2012 FA: Chicko, 2012 | 20m, 8 | |||
MacKrag (Private Land) | |||||
26 | Project | 18m |
Showing all 31 routes.