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Description

As described on https://wanderstories.space/mt-diamantina/

At the summit of Mt Diamantina is Diamantina Rock which is actually two large boulders with a big gap between them. That chimney would climbable if you are very tall with long arms and legs but I wouldn't recommend it as it's a little too wide. Don't expect to climb either of these without ropes and fall protection. In between these rocks are canisters with logbooks.

Access issues inherited from Hinchinbrook Island

Access via boat or kayak from Cardwell or Lucinda. You need a permit to stay overnight in Hinchinbrook Island National Park and a permit to bushwalk up to the remote mountain summits.

Approach

The hike in takes about 6+ hours for the very fit bushwalker.

Descent notes

Steps to descent the rock:

  1. Build an anchor at the top (e.g. cam and thread)

  2. One person then abseils on that anchor to the ground

  3. Then, the person still on the top of the boulder disassembles the top anchor keeping the rope at the top.

  4. The person at the bottom then proceeds to build an anchor at the base of the rock tying one end of the rope into the bottom anchor. There is a good boulder on the eastern side between the two rocks; thread/sling that boulder to create a bottom anchor.

  5. The person still on top coils and thorws the rope off the other side of the bottom to that of the bottom anchor.

  6. The top person then proceeds to abseil down off the other side of the rock to that of the bottom anchor. Be careful not the get the rope stuck in a terrain trap (e.g. v-groove).

  7. Then, once both people are safely on the ground, proceed to disassemble bottom anchor and pull rope.

Congratulations! You now have 'ghosted' Diamantia Rock.

History

History timeline chart

Most people throw a rope across and prussic up. To Luen's knowledge, the smaller rock has only been climbed once before in the 1980s by a group from Ingham who used a tree which was growing close by but does not exist today.

Routes

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Grade Route

The smaller boulder is the easier route to climb and is well featured on the north side.

The same start as "North Face" but slightly harder for those who do not know how to crack climb and with a direct finish. Hand jam crack top the top. Has some pro at the top unlike "NF"; however it is vegetated.

FFA:

Middle of N face at the thin seam. Face and seam (crux) with small wire (#3 or 4) to ramp. Traverse 3m R past large wire (#8) and cams (red/green Camalot). Finish up the scooped weakness. Thread belay and large cams (blue Camalot) on top.

FFA: Madoc Sheehan & Luen Warneke, Sep 2018

No gear and not very well featured but it may be possible to climb for the experienced climber. However, it would need to be bolted. I suggest using Petzl Coeur Pulses to limit the eyesore for bushwalkers.

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Activity

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