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Bizarro Slab Land

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 99

Seasonality

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Description

Bizarro Slab Land is a new area that as of early 2020 was undergoing development. It consists of a couple of long, low walls and some free-standing blocks. It has the potential to yield several new problems, with further areas yet to be explored. The rock quality is generally good here, though sometimes covered with lichen or moss. Take care on top outs, as there may be loose blocks or other debris.

Access issues inherited from White Rock Conservation Area

Be aware that there is a rare plant that calls the boulders we climb home. It is in our interest to accommodate it. More details can be found on the ACAQ web site:

http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf

Approach

Walk past the boulder with Slab of Beer, Slab of Concrete, and Slab of Meat until crossing a small gully/water course. The Zombieland and Chalking Dead boulders lie at the top of the gully. To reach the Haunted House boulder, cross the gully and angle slightly uphill for about 50-75m.

Ethic inherited from White Rock Conservation Area

Redbank is home to some extremely rare plants that call the top of some of our boulders home. If there are logs defining top outs please respect these and avoid trampling anything that isn't grass. For more information check out http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf .

Be mindful of other users, don't leave rubbish or disturb any vegetation. Stick to the established tracks where possible. Do not use steel wire brushes as these will take away the holds.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start standing with LH in jug on the arête and RH in an undercling, at full arm’s length, with high feet. Move straight up on both sides of the blocky feature, with good holds on the left and slopey ones on the right.

FA: David Jefferson, 10 Apr

Sit start in the small ravine with two positive but small fingery holds down low. Figure out a crimpy way to get out of the ravine and straight up to a compressing top out.

FFA: JSBC & Angus Davidson, 6 Jun

Stand start in two underclings, with the RH near the right arête and good feet out left. Move up RH to a small but positive crimp on the face, the do some classy footwork to match holds on the sloper at the top of the face. From here, but a big move to good holds to top out.

Set by David Jefferson, 10 Apr

Sit start on the far right side of the boulder, with the right foot in a pocket, LH on a pinch, and RH meathook around the point of the arête. Climb the arête using a couple of powerful meathooks. Short but stout.

FA: David Jefferson, 15 Apr

Sit-start on slopers at the far left lip. Throw the left heel on and commence a series of powerful moves on slopers to link into the start of the Chalking Dead.

Set by David Jefferson, 13 Apr

FA: Mikey Musch, 15 Jul

Start with LH in the obvious mail slot above the lip of the cave, with RH on a slopey sidepull and feet underneath the lip of the cave on positive edges. Make a hard throw with the RH to hit one of two sloping crimps on the face. From here, either match hands on the crimps or use a shallow LH mono to get the feet high enough to mantle. Hard to grade but feels about right at V6.

FA: David Jefferson, 13 Apr

This problem and adjacent lines are located on a long, low boulder situated about 150m downhill in the gully from the Chalking Dead boulder.

Stand start at the tallest point of the boulder, with RH in a large hueco and LH on positive side pull. Cross into a tendon rupturing 2 finger pocket and slopey crimp, and set up to move to the lip. Delicately top out amid the vegetation.

FA: David Jefferson, 21 Apr

This problem and adjacent lines are located on a long, low boulder situated about 150m downhill in the gully from the Chalking Dead boulder.

Immediately to the left of Crater Hater. Stand start with LH in one of several undercling huecos, and RH in the sidepull/undercling edge in the scarred rock. Set up and dyno for the lip.

Set by David Jefferson, 21 Apr

Crouch start on the same big slopper pocket as HT and move straight up. Watch the choss ontop. A decent warm up

FA: JSBC, Mar 2020

Sit start on a good left hand side pull and a right gaston in the crack. Pull on and bump right to a slopy side pull and move left to a small but positive crimp on the face. From here, sort feet and move right to a sloper, then left to positive crimps up high to top out. Gets its name for some interesting foot beta that makes the start much easier.

FA: David Jefferson, 27 Oct 2019

Climb the off width crack that splits the centre of the wall to a scrunchy top out.

FA: David Jefferson, 27 Oct 2019

Left to right traverse starting at the obvious slopey pocket. Fingery and tensiony moves through the thin horizontal crack lead into an easy finish up Crack O'Lantern.

FA: David Jefferson, 27 Oct 2019

The tallest line on the boulder starts in a stand start on a big pocket LH and small pocket RH. Move up and figure out a tendon popping move on monos, being greeted by a committing mantle on pure nothingness. The offwidth crack and flake is all out to the left.

FA: JSBC, David Jefferson & Scott, Jul 2020

Stand start matched in the big pocket (far left) of NBC. Delicately move across right into C.E on pockets. Finish up C.E

FA: JSBC & Scott Walsh, Aug 2020

The slab right of NBC, stand starting on high LH pocket (Cleopatra’s Eyes) and RH on lower slimper (sloping crimp). Technical, smeary climbing up to a committing top.

FA: JSBC, Scott, Angus Davidson & David Jefferson, Jul 2020

Sit start with hands in large horizontal pockets, then move up LH to amazing mono pinch. From here slopers, pockets, and good crimps see you to the top. Still a bit dirty, take care.

FA: David Jefferson, 10 Apr

Sit start as for El Amor... but instead of topping out straight up, traverse right on some delightful pockets and crimps with slabby feet to top out above the shallow corner. Mind the blocks on top.

FA: David Jefferson, 18 Apr

A good introduction to slab climbing. Start slightly to the right of the large blocks on top of the wall. Head straight up, being careful not to dislodge them on the top out.

FA: David Jefferson, 10 Apr

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