Help

The Underground

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 20-30min
  • Photos: 10
  • Ascents: 790

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

The underground offers some of the most featured, fun roof bouldering around. A stellar cave that has problems getting closer to routes in length. Outside the cave offers some steep fun easier lines. This is a great summer bouldering spot as it doesn't get the afternoon sun and stays relatively cool, being mostly underground.

Access issues inherited from White Rock Conservation Area

Be aware that there is a rare plant that calls the boulders we climb home. It is in our interest to accommodate it. More details can be found on the ACAQ web site:

http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf

Approach

From the car park follow the road until you reach the large T intersection with the huge white gum tree, from here turn left and follow the road (ignoring the road to the white rock). Continue up the hill until the road takes a right hand turn and there's a small very blank boulder on your right. Here turn right off the road and follow the trail. The Underground is approximately 100m down the trail. Approach takes about 20 - 30 minutes.

Ethic inherited from White Rock Conservation Area

Redbank is home to some extremely rare plants that call the top of some of our boulders home. If there are logs defining top outs please respect these and avoid trampling anything that isn't grass. For more information check out http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf .

Be mindful of other users, don't leave rubbish or disturb any vegetation. Stick to the established tracks where possible. Do not use steel wire brushes as these will take away the holds.

History

View historical timeline

Found by Dan Gordon and Alex Turnbull 2013. Pictures and topo by Peter Crane

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Start as for Lazarus but escape around the left corner of the cave.

FFA: Harry Bowman, 4 Aug 2013

Sit-Start to the left of the cave entrance and follow the obvious holds along the lip. Finish as for Too Soft. Beta- https://youtu.be/AhPA2D2BDb4

FA: Alex Turnbull, 4 Aug 2013

Sit-Start as for Lazarus but instead of doing Too Soft to finish, now go thunder across Aiokiasof to finish on its same pocket or if you want to do a few more moves, up the V1 for a top out.

FA: JSBC, 8 Feb 2019

Start at beginning of 'Too Soft', boulder 'Orient Express' in reverse and finish on the round pocket of 'In Transit'. Original first ascent at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ytHPlIJcl4s Solid V4 or soft V5.

Climb Aiokiasof. At the big pocket it finishes on, recover and take a few big breaths, now do Oriental Express finishing up Too Soft’s mantel. Soft V6 or Hard V5. Should be graded 26 with that many moves.

FA: JSBC, 29 Jan 2019

Start on good holds on the lip of cave. Continue through mantle top-out.

FA: Peter & Madeleine, 2013

Sit start on good sloper and campus out towards mantle.

FFA: Sam Bowman, 4 Aug 2013

Start inside cave on the left. Obvious hole leads to shelf and joins Shinkansen at the compression moves. Finish as for Too Soft.

FFA: Patrik Banda, 29 Aug 2013

Start as for Pendeltag, exiting as for Aiokiasof. The longest line at the underground.

FA: Josh, 29 Jun 2019

Start as for Pendeltåg, but follow the low crack-weakness, firing out of the cave into Too Soft.

Sit-start at the back of the cave on obvious holds and follow the nice line out of the cave. Mantle to top-out.

FA: Sam Bowman, 4 Aug 2013

Start as for Shinkansen but finish as for Aiokiasof

FA: Mikey Musch, 24 Jan 2019

Start at the end of the back rail left of Shinkasen. traverse right past Metro Papineau start and finally transfer onto the shelve. Finish as Metro Papineau. The must do of the Cave.

FA: Ross Fergusson, 4 Sep 2013

Start as for 'Shinkansen' but blast straight across the gap, linking into 'Metro-Papineau' at the drop down.

Tough for shorties, easier for those with albatross like wingspans. Adds a good hard move for the start of metro and gets the pump flowing early on!

FA: Rhys Phillips, 21 May 2017

Start on the mushroom hold in the middle, back of the cave. A drop down move get's you onto the big shelve. Reach under for Orient Express pockets. Finish as Shinkasen. Pumper.

FA: Antoine Moussette, 1 Sep 2013

Start at the back of the cave, right of 'Shinkansen' on obvious holds. Traverse right on the jugs until they end, then head across the first and then the second "gap" pulling some hard moves to finish doing 'Polar Express'. Pumpy!

Set by Rhys Phillips & Paul Cochrane, 26 May 2015

FA: Paul Cochrane, 28 Jun 2015

Links Supa Chief into Orient Express. Climb Supa Chief to the starting holds of Orient Express, then climb that line to top out as for Lazarus. Harder than the normal finish of Supa Chief, and pumpy!

FA: David Jefferson, 31 Jan

[eliminate] The stunning line at the entrance of the cave. Start at middle of Orient Express and blast straight out of cave through blank section. eliminates the big sidepull on the right side.

Start on massive pocket and traverse across the whole middle lip of the cave, using many heel tricks, whilst keeping tension. Finish up Too Soft.

FA: Cody Gillmeister, 4 May 2019

Set by Tom Toro, 26 Dec 2019

Start this sandbag on the obvious jug pockets in the middle back of the cave (Metro’s start which is right of Shinkansen). Do the drop down move of Metro onto the rail that is exiting the cave (climb Aiokiasof with the foot stab Crux) then out up polar express through the pocket and on to hang finish at the ledge.

FA: Lachlan Pearson, Dec 2013

Sit Start inside on the right side of the cave on two pinches. Pull on- stem out to the large rail (the inside rail on the opposite side of Oriental express), then campus and heelhook your way out to “Too softs” mantle. Pull on to the rail for a more natural start and you can have a 4.

FFA: Sam Bowman, 4 Aug 2013

Climb “The Flying Scotsman” (the inside rail opposite side of Oriental Express) but instead of finishing on Too Soft, climb Aiokiasof. Campus training helps! FA and beta clip- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyWWiJhWKp8

FA: JSBC, Feb 2019

Yes it's another linkup. Climb Flying Frenchwoman to the finishing hole of Aiokiasof. Shake out, then reverse and climb Orient Express to top out as for Lazarus. Similar to, but probably harder than Rocky Mountaineer.

FA: David Jefferson, 31 Jan

Start inside the cave mid-way in (to the right side - first possible sit start) on obvious holds. Follow the big rail and finish as for Too Soft.

FA: Sam Bowman, 4 Aug 2013

Sit-Start as for Polar Express, climbing through the overhang directly into a prominent undercling before gaining an enormous jug directly over the small boulder in the middle of the cave and topping out.

Set by Antoine M & Brendan F., 1 Sep 2013

Start as for Orient Express and blast straight up out of the cave. Cleaned with Matt's hands on first ascent...May need a brush still.

FFA: Matt Cochrane, 15 Aug 2013

Start in big Hueco and traverse left into Polar Express

Set by Antoine M, 1 Sep 2013

Sit start on good holds, move through a pair of friendly pockets and continue to an interesting mantle.

FA: Boyd Wilcocks, 14 Aug 2013

Start as for Lazarus but rather than topping out Too Soft, continue traversing along lip. Top out at the highest point of the cave directly above the large boulder on the ground.

FA: Robert O'Connell, 26 Oct 2013

Straight up just to the right of small cave, take care with top out

FFA: Darryn Fox, Sep 2018

A Traverse from start of Fox cross under Raven finish on single pocket

FFA: Za, 19 Oct 2018

Start at Fox traverse right a coupleof meters then top out

FFA: Za, 19 Oct 2018

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Underground.