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Slab Land

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Access issues inherited from White Rock Conservation Area

Be aware that there is a rare plant that calls the boulders we climb home. It is in our interest to accommodate it. More details can be found on the ACAQ web site:

http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf

Approach

Head past the Boardwalk on your right and the turnoff to Antiquity etc on your left and keep going along the main path. Turn L off the path and up the hill when you see the start of a barbed wire fence on your L, climb thru the fence and keep going uphill. There is a sign of some description on your R at that point. If you hit the intersection with the huge white gum where you turn L to the Underground you've gone too far. The area is 150m long and only 50-70m off the track so it's not like you can easily miss it.

Descent notes

On the way out - you may come across a barbed wire fence - to avoid stepping over this and potentially injuring yourself on the rusty barbs and needing a tetanus shot (not that that happened to me), follow the fence to the right until the fence stops.

Ethic inherited from White Rock Conservation Area

Redbank is home to some extremely rare plants that call the top of some of our boulders home. If there are logs defining top outs please respect these and avoid trampling anything that isn't grass. For more information check out http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf .

Be mindful of other users, don't leave rubbish or disturb any vegetation. Stick to the established tracks where possible. Do not use steel wire brushes as these will take away the holds.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

A direct start to Arabesque Left. Stand start with good R crimp and slopey left crimp. Tiny footholds to begin, giving way to very high feet and delicate movement. If you are still on, finish as for AL. Do not escape to the arete on the left- climb the face.

FFA: Tom Reid, 31 Oct 2015

Stand start with good RH on arete and big feet. Pull on static and move to same finger pocket of Arabesque, then trend left and up the high slab. Finish on far Left at top of boulder. First accent not known.

FA: Unknown

Super balancy slab.

FA: Dan Gordon, Aug 2013

Starts around the corner from Arabesque

FA: Lauren Walker, Aug 2013

Far left of the boulder around the side from Waiting For The Sun. A kiddies problem. Sit Start on good holds. A good intro into mantling

FA: JSBC, Aug 2019

Behind the thin tree, to the right of Bibi is an easy moderate. Start sit started.

FA: JSBC, Aug 2019

Sit start on good RH gaston and LF pinch- big feet. Go up to the right side of the little cave around the corner from damn hard slab on crimps, pockets and nice sloppers.

FA: Gabriel, Apr 2014

Left hand in small divot, right hand on slopery crimp. Fancy toe hook to move to horizontal break and smear up the mossy slab. Grade easier if you start with the right hand already in the horizontal break.

FA: Kyle Addy, 15 Mar

Start in a sit start- with the obvious large side pull and bust some incredibley powerful moves that lack footholds into No Mans Land.

Set by JSBC, 17 Aug 2019

Start far right of boulder- Stand starting on slopper. Balance is key.

FA: Elizabeth Cuskelly, Aug 2013

The arete to the left of ATATWYTAI. Sit start on small RH pocket, good LH flake.

FA: JSBC, Aug 2019

Climb the right Side of the boulder left of KIOABIYA. Start sit started on large feet a LH undercling and very good RH. The mantle makes it worth while.

FA: JSBC, Aug 2019

Stand start to the left of the tombstone block at the base of the boulder with a left hand in the crimp pockets and a right hand on the obvious shelf. Move right and up to the blunt arête using high feet and mantle technique to the top.

FA: David Jefferson, 4 Aug 2019

Sit start on good LH crimp on the arete left and good RH sloper or crimp. Figure out a way to pull on and palm down mantle the sloper. Named after a day of defeat on a project because they said “I think it’s soft for grade”.

FA: JSBC, Jul 2019

Sit Start KOABIYA then traverse right into MS finish with a fun mantle.

FA: JSBC, Aug 2019

2m L of Angie's Crack. Stand start the rail and jug, mantle the sloping shelf and gingerly top out. Beware the loose flakes on the top to the far left.

Up the crack for a legal high

FA: Angie Davies, Jul 2013

Up the arete opposite Slimper Assis.

FFA: Angie Davies, Jul 2013

Sit or stand start (doesn’t change the grade) up the burly arete. Work out a way to mantle the large amount of nothingness without pooping your pants. Bring attentive spotter for the boulder behind.

FA: Dan Gordon (Stand) & Sam Bowman (Sit), Sep 2013

Stand start up the cool pockets with a HARD committing mantle.

FA: Sam Bowman, Sep 2013

Sit start on the right hand side of the wave feature, then power-enduro up into the v6. The Classic of the area.

FFA: Adam, 16 Aug 2017

Start as for AIITO in the sit start. Move up to the ledge jugs- then cut left and blast off. Watch out for the poor chalky cheddar cheese rock on the starting holds.

Set by JSBC, Aug 2019

FA: JSBC, 1 Apr

Start in a sit start down left and climb up to obvious ledge traversing right. A Hardish mantle guards this one! Watch the orchids.

FA: Alex Turnbull, Aug 2013

Nice little slab which is great for a warm up. Use the arete and your balance.

FA: Lauren Walker, Aug 2013

An awesome addition by the master of slab Nick Tierney. Without the right skills this short beauty may feel harder. A great lesson in climbing and mantling without holds. Footwork, balance, palm downs, whaling, groveling - its got it all.

FA: Nick Tierney

Sit start and head left, finish standing on the top of the free-standing flake. A gecko bravely sacrificed itself during the cleaning of this problem.

FA: Nicholas Tierney, Jul 2013

Start start on the right side of the boulder and get extreme directly up the arète following a cool RH crack.

FA: JSBC, Jul 2019

Sit start the arete and proceed through some hard crimping. Get ready to be greeted by an interesting lip move and challenging mantle. Please do not brush off the tongue orchids. Fun Problem.

FFA: Elizabeth cuskelly, Aug 2013

Stand start and move in and out of the awesome huge undercling. Hardish mantle. Please do not develop any problems to the left of BUT and right of TA as the space is covered in tongue orchid.

FFA: Brendan Fraser, Aug 2013

Sit start on a good right edge and with one hand on the arete. Simply launch for the top and mantle. So short but so hard. Sorry to all the shortys out there.

FFA: Daniel Gordon, Sep 2013

Stand start for an easy mantel.

FA: Nick Tierney, Aug 2013

Stand start and mantel on good hold

FA: Johnny Schwartz, Aug 2013

Stand start from the blocky jug.

FA: Todd Herriott, 21 Nov 2014

Stand start easy slab up the left hand side of the face

FA: Johnny Schwartz, Aug 2013

Stand start up the arete with the huge pockets. A bit committing.

FA: Johnny Schwartz, Aug 2013

Stand start on the ground in between the two boulders, slab-it-up to the top.

FA: Eddie Burrill, Aug 2013

Alt start to SOC, starting in a stand with high RH positive pocket and LH small sloping pocket. Punch left untill you reposition yourself on the arete. Finish on SOC with a high committed mantle. Do not touch the tongue orchid above.

FA: JSBC, Jul 2020

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