Help

Antiquity area

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Access issues inherited from White Rock Conservation Area

Be aware that there is a rare plant that calls the boulders we climb home. It is in our interest to accommodate it. More details can be found on the ACAQ web site:

http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf

Ethic inherited from White Rock Conservation Area

Redbank is home to some extremely rare plants that call the top of some of our boulders home. If there are logs defining top outs please respect these and avoid trampling anything that isn't grass. For more information check out http://www.qldclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/White-Rock-Rare-Plant-Notice-4Sep13.pdf .

Be mindful of other users, don't leave rubbish or disturb any vegetation. Stick to the established tracks where possible. Do not use steel wire brushes as these will take away the holds.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Sit start on two obvious holds and follow the left seam to the top

FFA: Neil Jenman, 1 Jul 2018

Stand start on good side pull and sloper, straight up.

Start as for 1 and traverse right on the sloper rail to top out as for 2.

FA: David Jefferson, 1 Jul

Stand start using arete, head stright up.

Sit start the right arete problem with bad feet and a low right edge move up to the LH gaston and up some cool sloppers.

FA: JSBC

Sit start with good right hand edge and low side pull, straight up for a nice short problem.

Sit start as for the V3 on good slopes, head up and left to slopey crimp then top out.

FFA: Marion N, 30 Aug 2015

Sit start using good holds, big move to the good hold at the top. Stand or jump start to the good top hold for a V0

Stand start with good side pull and small edge, head straight up. Sit start goes at V6.

The sit start to number 5. The crux is pulling on and moving.

Stand start using edges, head straight up to good slopers on the top and mantle.

Good edges and up

Stand start using small edges on a very bad footer, slap the slopers and mantle.

Sit start on good edges, straight to the top and mantle. Stand start goes at V0.

FA: Phil Beattie, Mar 2014

Stand start up the big pockets and scoops on the arete

Stand start up the right side of the arete

Sit start very low in the middle of the boulder with LH on a positive rail and RH in a shallow 2 finger pocket, with feet on the shelf. Do some serious body English to reach a high RH crimp flake, then hit a good LH crimp before mantling out. So named because it feels like V7 initially, but climbs more like a 3 or 4 if you figure out the body positioning.

FA: David Jefferson, 1 Jul

Stand start with bad feet, straight up to slopey rail, anything goes from here.

Start on the arete then head right to finish as for Antiquity

FFA: Sam Bowman, Jul 2013

The original line. Sit start on jugs in the middle of the wall. Head straight up and mantle out. Classic

FFA: Rob Saunders, 1992

Sit-start on barely there holds, moving left into mono's and finish on jug below ferns.

FFA: sam bowman, 10 Mar 2015

Same sit start as antique roadshow prom but head right till you link into the V4 arete. A 60 degree sloper guards this beast. Definitely a hard little proj. All the moves have now been done besides the 2nd, the beasty gaston to sloper throw.

Straight up the arete for a desperate slopey mantle

Sit start and up the offwidth crack

Sit start from the large pocket, left to a crimp then tricky pulling on mediocre holds, traversing hard left then up for a fun mantle. Holds broke since First ascent. Has been sent in it’s new form around Hard V7 or soft 8.

FA: Cal, 30 Jul 2015

Sit start up through slopey rail to sidepull and mantle.

This slabby problem stand-start’s on two underclings with obvious huge footer at the far right of the boulder. A balancey move to start, gains a large sidepull, then to a cool small RH pocket, directly up to a cruisey finish. Cynthia named it after Pountine, she's Canadian eh!

Set by Cynthia Cormier

FA: JSBC, Dec 2016

Sit start to the right of Cheese Curds in two opposing sidepulls with good feet on the low rail. Make a big move and top out to the right side of the boulder next to the arête.

FA: David Jefferson, 23 Apr

Far left problem on the separated boulder (crack on right is out). Sit start on a peanut pinch LH, RH on a decent crimp, LF smearing and RF on good footer. Straight up to the great horizontal slopper break and big holds on the finish.

FA: JSBC, Jan 2019

Start inside of small cave on a massive ledge, work outwards and into the crack. Head to the start of the cave and finish upwards.

Be careful of spiders and other deadly creatures dwelling in the hole!

FA: Philip Xunlix Ly, Jul 2016

A squat start on the lip of the cave on good holds leads to a couple of powerful moves. This line eliminates the arete and the crack on the left, by just climbing directly the face.

Set by JSBC

Sit/Stand start on good jugs or edges on R arete of boulder. Up and L to low face crimp then up to sidepull flake and mantle. Footwork essential.

Squat start on two crimps in the scoop. Crimp up the face to a big dyno. Classic

FA: Ben, 19 May

Sit start as for Repeater, but head left to a good LH Pinch and RH flat hold, and dyno to the prominent bump on the lip and top out. Will be a V4 for shorties.

FFA: Tom Reid, 27 Sep 2015

Start on pockets, move straight up, rail-slopey slap up to the right, gaston/mantle on jug, feet up, top out

Stand start on pocket and high rail, move right to juggy sidepull and upwards

Sit-start on big flake and pockets, move straight up on slopes then left to finish as for Repeater. May add a grade or two if your under 6 ft tall.

FFA: Sam Bowman, 10 Mar 2015

Stand start to the left of the crack/runnel feature, with the RH in a shallow pocket and the LH in a good slot. Move up the blunt arête/slab with slopey feet and hands, and balancy yet athletic movement. Avoids all of the holds to the right of the crack, including the blocky pedestal at the start.

FA: David Jefferson, 16 May

Up the left arete of Gymset using only the rail for hands. Quite challenging for feet with an interesting top out!

FA: Matthew Earsman

Up the orange face with plenty of holds.

Sit start low on L side on reasonable crimps and sidepull flake. A few cramped moves on crimps then up to obvious dish, then topout. Stand start VE.

Set by Peatey & Rick Helm

FA: David Jefferson, 1 Nov 2019

Crux stand start on small sharp R hand sidepull, L on undercling/sidepull or a crimp as wingspan allows. Get on the wall static then balancy footwork or just huck to high holds, traverse L to topout over middle of bloc.

FFA: and, Rick Helm & Daniel Peatey, Jul 2017

Sit start R arete on good R hand flake then up and mantle out. Flake flexes, likely loose.

FFA: Daniel Peatey & Rick Helm, Jul 2017

Sit start the crimp rail, big move to the cool pocket then mantle. Maybe V1+?

FA: JSBC, 2015

Sit start on small but positive ironstone crimps and traverse left to top out on Endless Summer.

FA: David Jefferson, 1 Nov 2019

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Activity

Check out what is happening in Antiquity area.