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Large Crack Boulder

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 6
  • Ascents: 266
  • Aka: Boulder F

Seasonality

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Description

A tall, partly overhanging boulder with a large crack at its lefthand end and a staghorn fern perched on top.

Access issues inherited from Toohey Forest

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum, cleaning any chalk marks and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.

Approach

Just right of the 'Mantle Boulder'.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

SDS left of crack on slopers and smaller holds without using crack

Up the crack, if you're bored add a grade by purely jamming it.

Stand start in between Left of ferns and the crack using the only holds that work. Stay off the rock left of the crack. Surprisingly good and independent climbing. Surely has been done previously.

Sit start on BMU pocket. Up L on pockets then hard moves on poor holds straight up rounded arête to top out L of fern

FA: Kenny Walker, 2002

Sitstart on low pocket. The original and direct V8 line climbs straight up then veers right. It does not use the pocket on the face to the left (where LoF climbs) Utilising the the pocket it goes at v6.

FA: Rob Appleby

Juicy holds, and chipped holds over the high mantle.

Sit Start in the middle of the boulder with left hand on a full hand pinch and right on a small pocket, push up and latch to the next pocket above followed by an array of nice pockets to choose on your way to the top.

Stand start: Straight up R arête using sharp cobbly holds and pockets, then throw to lip and mantle. ~V3

Sit start: Start with good low left hand side pull, and right hand pinch up high. Bump right up to slopey break, and up from there.

Start on Cobb Loaf, traverse L across the wall all the way into Left of Ferns, top this out. Not sure if this was ever actually sent (Simon Moses?). Cracking hard problem.

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