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Unleash the Dancer Boulder

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 373
  • Aka: Area B

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Toohey Forest

'Toohey Forest' is owned by the Brisbane City Council. It's an important habitat for 400 plants and animals, and is very popular with walkers, joggers and picnicking families. Therefore the usual rules of taking out your rubbish, keeping noise to a minimum, cleaning any chalk marks and so on are particularly important here if climbing is to remain an acceptable activity in the eyes of the community.

Approach

The obvious overhang and wall on the right (facing downhill) as you arrive at the 'Main Area'.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start next to large sidepulls, using crimps and crappy small slopers to good hold at crack.

Stand. slab Sit start at small sidepulls up to crimpers and good holds at the top

Sit start L of Nun's Vagina on the crimp rail beneath the small rooflet, then bust out left and up. Going straight up the blunt arête will be contrived, hard, and fun!

Sit start straight up crack using both sides.

Sit start near large starting jugs, near crack. Throw to ledge to the R. Set up for layback up high to the small L hold. Moving up slightly to the R for top out.

FA: Bruce Taylor

Start on the crystally, sloper-crimps with feet on the gravelly shelf, then power up through gritty slopers to the ledge. Sharp, short, and nuggety goodness.

FA: Alex Mougenot, Apr 2020

There may be a gem buried beneath the moss ...

Start bunched in low break. Out to lip and throw right for decent hold.

Start on cobble under roof, with a long move to lip and out to L sloper, R hand sidepull and straight up. A good quality problem that should have a fitting name to how the sharp holds feel...

Start as for Unleash the Dancer Within and traverse L the whole way, topping out at Smoke and Mirrors.

FA: simon moses

Start as for unleash the dancer and finish up the fat mat traverse. A nice more sustained variant with a bit of a sting in its tail.

Start under roof on undercling. Long throw with right to jug at lip. Aim for high left pocket or straight up.

Start as for 7 Short Traverse until before the widest part of the rail, and go up via a high small left hand sloper.

Start on the right, traverse across on good rails and head halfway across the lip via a cool pocket above the largest part of the lip.

Start on right, finish up #4.

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Activity

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