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Description

This is the first buttress you reach when you go around the corner from Moonlight Buttress.

Access issues inherited from The Dark Side

There are no known access issues, but the area is relatively untouched, so treat it with respect. Try and avoid damaging vegetation, and set up an abseil after the first climb, to avoid trampling vegetation on top of the cliff.

Ethic inherited from The Dark Side

All climbs are traditional, and bolting is strongly discouraged.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climbs the crack in the middle of the wall. Up the blocky cracks to a ledge at 5m. Launch up the thin crack and left to a large ledge at 15m. Traverse right along the ledge for 2m to the continuation of the crack, and onto a large ledge below a large overhanging jammed block. Straight up over the block to glory. Good pro. There is an alternative route from the second ledge - left, and up a corner. This is easier, but less direct, and doesn't affect the route grade.

FFA: Garth Wimbush & Mike Garrett, 27 Apr 2014

Mount the easy bulge then climb the first face using horizontals and triangular pockets to gain a ledge. Climb the second face and then a third face passing through the middle of the two dominant triangular projections.

FFA: Michael Hillan Mike Garrett, 3 Apr 2015

Follow the obvious line 2/3 the way up before moving left around a mostly blank face before heading back right to the crack with the boulder in the top. (Conquering the face has the potential to be a great project!)

Set by Mike Garrett, 26 Apr 2014

FFA: Mike Garrett & Garth Wimbush, 26 Apr 2014

Pikers variant of Wind From Above. Follow the corner to the squeezy cave at the top and climb out before you are compacted or eaten by the dianoga.

Set by Mike Garrett, 25 Apr 2014

FFA: Mike Garrett & Garth Wimbush, 25 Apr 2014

Scrappy climbing leads to engaging jamming sequence. Finish at the final tunnel.

FFA: Jack Mattinson & Garth Wimbush, 19 May 2013

Activity

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