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Description

This sector looks a bit looser than those either side, but is still quite good.

Access issues inherited from The Dark Side

There are no known access issues, but the area is relatively untouched, so treat it with respect. Try and avoid damaging vegetation, and set up an abseil after the first climb, to avoid trampling vegetation on top of the cliff.

Approach

Walk towards the end of the first visible line of cliffs after turning the corner from Moonlight Buttress.

Ethic inherited from The Dark Side

All climbs are traditional, and bolting is strongly discouraged.

Routes

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Grade Route

Up bulging hand crack with plentiful gear. The crack line L of Heart of Stone.

FA: Chris St Jack & Jack Mattinson, 14 Jun 2013

Up the hand crack, over the heart shaped block, take a breath on the ledge, then launch up the thin seam to the top.

FA: Garth Wimbush & Jack Mattinson, 19 May 2013

Left around the corner from 'Hyperdrive'. Take the crack just left of the roof to the second horizontal above the roof, then traverse 4m right over the roof to a metre before the arete. Launch straight up the face following the line of weakness, to the top.

FFA: Garth Wimbush & Lyron Winderbaum, 4 Apr 2015

Start as per Dos Cabras Negras for 4m then traverse left towards arete with a series of cracks left of the red section. Follow your nose gloriously to the top.

FFA: Garth Wimbush & tim smith, 14 May 2017

Named after the audience at the top. Follow the lovely consistent line on the left of the face.

FA: Garth Wimbush & Jack Mattinson

FFA: Garth Wimbush & Jack Mattinson, 18 May 2013

The crack 2m right of DCN

FFA: Jack Mattinson & Garth Wimbush, 18 May 2013

Left arete of grey slab with gear in the left wall where it is run out. Through the obvious hand crack in the middle of the slab above.

FFA: Adam Clay, Garth Wimbush & Tim Smith, 14 May 2017

Right hand arete. Arrange 000 and 0.2 cams in slot on left and micro offset wires in horizontal on right arete, equalising both. spectacular and intricate moves to negotiate bulge them finish as per the sound on one cheek clapping.

FFA: Tim Smith, Adam Clay & Garth Wimbush, 14 May 2017

Start on the ledge, and head up the main zig-zagy crack to the left of Blood Moon.

FFA: Mike Garrett & Michael Hillan, 4 Apr 2015

Climb the corner and pass the fist block to gain the short second corner. Pass the roof on the right to gain the ledge and then climb the face on your left through the wide scoop.

FFA: Michael Hillan Mike Garrett, 4 Apr 2015

Climb the shallow poorly protected corner to a small roof, go left around the roof and continue up the groove to a large ledge. Climb the middle of the 4m face straight ahead.

FFA: Garth Wimbush & Lyron Winderbaum

FA: 4 Apr 2015

The climb follows a corner for a few metres. then branches out right onto the face and up a couple of discontinuous cracks. The climb starts just to the right of an obvious, square jutting block at half-height.

FFA: Garth Wimbush, 2015

Bouldering start to distinct corner with a loose-looking rock spike. Traverse up and left onto ledge with large block. Climb corner behind on wonderful holds to roof, traverse right onto ledge and up.

FFA: Garth Wimbush, Tim Smith & Adam Clay, May 2017

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