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Summary

A section of taller cliffs topped by a larger amphitheatre of pagoda-style rock

Access issues inherited from The Dark Side

There are no known access issues, but the area is relatively untouched, so treat it with respect. Try and avoid damaging vegetation, and set up an abseil after the first climb, to avoid trampling vegetation on top of the cliff.

Ethic inherited from The Dark Side

All climbs are traditional, and bolting is strongly discouraged.

Routes

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Grade Route

The route climbs the crack at the back of a 3m deep cleft 30m West of Lever. The feature has a tree growing out of the crack halfway up, an obvious sitting spot for birds. Follow the crack with increasing difficulty to the top, then continue up the weakness. The original route climbed up the left face to the top when the going got scrubby.

FFA: Garth Wimbush & Lyron Winderbaum, 4 Apr 2015

Up seam and corner to small roof, then up funky crack with some interesting moves. Up slab to hand crack/chimney, through to a cave and out through roof of cave. Good pro and good fun!

FFA: Kelly Thorpe & Garth Wimbush, Dec 2016

Roof project 2m Left of 'Wookie Style'. Crazy moves. Needs a bolt through roof, possibly one or two more. Will be bolted mid 2017. Could finish as for 'Wookie Style' or rap off tree at half height.

FA: Kelly Thorpe, Oct 2015

The overhanging crack in the prominent roof 200m past (West) of 'Tensions on the North Korea Peninsula'.

Pitch 1: 21, 18m Climb 2m up to large crack through roof, place gear and graple with the crack like the Wookie beast you are. Great corner + crack climbing above to a small belay ledge on the left next to a bunch of Malley trees.

Pitch 2: 14, 27m From the ledge go up and right up the corner, from here go right of the scrambly gulley and up nice seam + face to the glory jug haul at the top.

FFA: Kelly Thorpe & Jack Mattinson, Oct 2015

FA: Kelly Thorpe & Garth Wimbush, Oct 2015

Start at the very obvious and spectacular half-fallen block. (It might look scary, but it is entirely solid). Follow the obvious line before scrambling off left up a gulley.

Set by Mike Garrett, 26 Apr 2014

FFA: Mike Garrett & Garth Wimbush, 26 Apr 2014

Up the prominent line on the wall L of Tensions on the Korean Peninsular. A involved undertaking through a wide spectrum of crack, overhangs and shrubbery.

FA: Jack Mattinson & Chris St Jack, 14 Jun 2013

Activity

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