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Description

A sandstone cliff hidden in the bush at the foothills of Toowoomba west of Brisbane. Development started in 2000 driven primarily by Phil Box and Lee Cujes. A guide is available on www.qurank.com

Access issues

It's a walk-in only crag, located in Lockyer Valley National Park, just down from the end of Paradise Creek Road. The main accuess issue has been a little tension from a family who live along the road, but don't let that stop you from enjoying this hidden beauty!

Keep the dust down as you drive past and enjoy your day like you generally would. If confronted by the family, tell them you're aware of the conversations with the Helidon Police and will gladly call them to assist.(07) 4697 6533. Affirm that you're going climbing and remind them you care about this place as much as them. Don't hang around to listen to stories of "better access to the top of the cliff" and "vandalism and traps against them", or "climbers leaving trash everywhere and starting fires." Just throw your pack on and move along.

For clarity: the road is a public road, you park on the side of the road on their neighbour, Bob Meir's property, who has given permission for climbers to walk through his block in the past - the police will verify this.

Approach

30mins from Toowoomba / 90mins from Brisbane + 15min hike-in.

Head to the outskirts of Murphy's creek and find Paradise Creek road. It's a dirt road managable in a 2wd - head down here for ~3k ignoring any 'keep-out' signs along the way. Look for rocks or sticks along the road, and mind the dust past the houses. Park on the side of the road just before it turns and descends at a sharp left turn. Here's a map pin: https://goo.gl/maps/ZPnqmFW1yg9bqjSf9

The cliff is clearly visible to the South.

From the corner in the road, walk directly towards the cliffs to pick up an obvious small dirt path that follows along the ridge line, descending down into the creek bed. Continue along the creek bed walking directly towards the cliffs (stay on right side of creek)

Once you're at the base of the cliffs, there is a track that heads up each side (east and west). Depending on where you want to climb, either cross creek and find goats track up eastern side (for orange overhand, sharks fin, mythologica) or walk around creek further to other end of crag to a small steep feeder creek and follow disguised goats trail up western side. (for send in the clowns, alcove and trad bumblies)

Where to stay

Visit the Murphys Creek Store for a cold drink on your way past and let them know you're off for a climb.

Ethic

The ethic is natural protection where possible, and glue-in ringbolts or U-bolts where fixed protection is required.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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