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Mythologica

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Access issues inherited from Redcliffs

It's a walk-in only crag, located in Lockyer Valley National Park, just down from the end of Paradise Creek Road. The main accuess issue has been a little tension from a family who live along the road, but don't let that stop you from enjoying this hidden beauty!

Keep the dust down as you drive past and enjoy your day like you generally would. If confronted by the family, tell them you're aware of the conversations with the Helidon Police and will gladly call them to assist.(07) 4697 6533. Affirm that you're going climbing and remind them you care about this place as much as them. Don't hang around to listen to stories of "better access to the top of the cliff" and "vandalism and traps against them", or "climbers leaving trash everywhere and starting fires." Just throw your pack on and move along.

For clarity: the road is a public road, you park on the side of the road on their neighbour, Bob Meir's property, who has given permission for climbers to walk through his block in the past - the police will verify this.

Ethic inherited from Redcliffs

The ethic is natural protection where possible, and glue-in ringbolts or U-bolts where fixed protection is required.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The next five routes are on the top portion of cliff and require abseils to access.

Belay off your abseil line. Start 2m R of pillar on L side of ledge. Mantle small ledge and place gear in horizontal crack on L. Proceed up the slight-rightwards shallow crack (small cams) to the next horizontal break and awesome pockets. Finish up the twin cracks to ledge, and top.

FA: Rob Knight & Phil Box, 2003

Belay off your abseil line. Starts 3m L of corner at right end of ledge, below big orange hand-hold. Start up wall to good ledge (medium SLCD). Straight up (small SLCD) and then towards horizontal break (medium SLCD). Veer L to layback crack and then up to L side of tree. Up ramp to top.

FA: Rob Knight & Phil Box, 2003

Rap down onto big stance in corner. Natural belay. Bridge up short, steep corner to easy ground, before traversing R (easy but exposed) with pretty average protection in pockets to man-sized hueco on arête (good gear). Up arête to roof (RB). Kneebar to reach high up L on headwall. Up arête to tree belay.

FA: Lee Cujes & Phil Box, 2001

Climbs the biggest section of roof. Access similar to TSAOT - rap down the R arête of the roof (facing out) to ledge, then walk 2m under the roof to RB belay station down low. Up start wall past three RB’s to roof. Reachy clip to RB in roof, then power to lip. Two RB’s on headwall then a loose finish. Tree belay.

FA: Lee Cujes & Phil box, 2001

Start at Pendulus belay, clip first ring on P and then up corner to roof. Scrunch up into the foetal position as you make your way out to the rocker blocker, try not to pull the block off into your lap whilst you pull the lip, blast up shallow chimney to top. Use extra long draws to avoid rope drag. All bolts.

Set by Phil Box

FFA: Lee Cujes Phil Box, 2004

Starting about 10m L of Mythologica at the big orange corner below the big roof (Pendulus). Climbs up the corner and face on good rock with just enough protection (some tricky slinging) to the ledge. Pendulus’ RB station 4m L on ledge.

FA: Phil Box & Lee Cujes, 2001

Starts just right of IRGC, on the goats track underneath the large roof. Diagonally right over two carrots then back left and up over three ring bolts to chains.

Full value! See topo 4. Climb the original past the bulge. Instead of going up the crackline, move up L to a RB on the arête. Up the airy arête, then climb the wall just R of rubbishy gully.

FA: Lee Skidmore & Stephen Parker, 2003

See topo 4. Start just R of the big orange corner of IRGC. Stickclip RB, then boulder out over the void (crux). Easily up arête to ledge with daunting bulge above. Carefully crank up to clip high RB, then power through on good holds. Follow the crackline from here to the top.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Neil Monteith & Neil Monteith, 2003

A fine face climb up a sustained slab. Start on the sloping terrace beneath the slab. Crank onto the face passing a FH and gear. Up black rock on good edges passing second FH and gear to a rest. Directly up to the third FH, then great face moves on solid stone to the last FH. Think your way through the thin, technical crux tending R and up to thankfully plug gear in the breaks. Traverse R into the crackline, and follow this to the top (tree). Take a full rack including many small SLCD’s and wires. Solid for the grade.

FA: Lee Cujes & Phil Box, 2000

Lovely climbing. See topo 4. Start at short corner a couple of metres R of M.

FA: Neil Monteith & Grant Martin, 2003

Start up a line and keep just to the L of B.A.S (i.e. to the right of LFM)

FFA: Phil Box & Grant Edser

This one starts from way down on the ground. See topo 4. Just guess the acronym! The big corner/gully system. Good pro all the way, but dangerously loose blocks in the middle of the second pitch.

FA: Phil Box Grant Edser, 2000

About 10m or so L of Cerberus. Out to the R, then up the cracked and balancy rock gully chute. Note the dangerous hanging rocks - exercise great caution here.

FA: Phil Box Grant Edser, 2000

When looking out from the top of the Mythologica Wall it’s hard to miss the impressive looking prow out L, which is split by a ledge in the middle. Cerberus climbs the lower bit, Tartarus the upper. Starts 5m L of SID. Pull up into cave and shuffle along to the end. Sit down, feet low, lean out and clip RB (if you’re scared - temp #1 SLCD in the cave roof). Crank past the RB in an airy position to break (gear). Up crack (wire) to ledge. Belay off #2 SLCD and RB

FA: Lee Cujes Phil Box, 2001

The next two routes start from the ledge above Cerberus.

Very good rock and enjoyable jamming. Access as per Tartarus. Climb the crackline 3m L of Tartarus to tree. Optional DF straight up face.

FA: Steve Waite & Alison Greenhalgh, 2001

The part of Hell reserved for the punishment of the wicked. To access, climb Cerberus, or rap in. Belay off RB and #2 SLCD. From the ledge, blast up the wall in a spectacular position past three RB’s to tree belay. Scramble R to top.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2002

5m R of Cerberus is a big overhang with one RB wayyy up. Monstrous stickclip, or rap in and preplace. Powerful, bouldery climbing. Once on ledge, climb wall (easy, no pro) to base of Tartarus. Belay from RB and #2 SLCD.

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