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Send in the Clowns

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Access issues inherited from Redcliffs

It's a walk-in only crag, located in Lockyer Valley National Park, just down from the end of Paradise Creek Road. The main accuess issue has been a little tension from a family who live along the road, but don't let that stop you from enjoying this hidden beauty!

Keep the dust down as you drive past and enjoy your day like you generally would. If confronted by the family, tell them you're aware of the conversations with the Helidon Police and will gladly call them to assist.(07) 4697 6533. Affirm that you're going climbing and remind them you care about this place as much as them. Don't hang around to listen to stories of "better access to the top of the cliff" and "vandalism and traps against them", or "climbers leaving trash everywhere and starting fires." Just throw your pack on and move along.

For clarity: the road is a public road, you park on the side of the road on their neighbour, Bob Meir's property, who has given permission for climbers to walk through his block in the past - the police will verify this.

Ethic inherited from Redcliffs

The ethic is natural protection where possible, and glue-in ringbolts or U-bolts where fixed protection is required.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The route starts just L of the second RB on the fixed rope traverse. Crank up into cave. Lean out and clip RB on lip. Monkey up into easy ground. Run up corner past tree and get situated under roof, clipping RB on bulge. A gut-busting boulder problem into the corner (#2 SLCD) and up carefully to tree belay.

FA: Phil Box & Lee Cujes, 2001

A very nice cruisy route taking in some lovely scenery. Unfortunately it has a dyno start which may be tricky for some. Starts at the L-end of the rope traverse. Lean out to clip RB, then dyno up and hand traverse R to pull onto easy ground (#1 SLCD). Up the slick slab (RB and big wire) to ledge (RB). Mantle, then an interesting step over the void gives a break (big SLCD) and then much easier climbing to the top.

FA: Lee Cujes & Rob Knight, 2001

A thrilling lip-traverse variant on Elysium. Climb Elysium until your hands are on the ledge; level with the huge roof. Clip the RB, then power directly out the lip via what for most will be a huge dyno to a jug, then mantle out the prow. Finish easily as per the original.

FA: Lee Skidmore & Adam Power, 2005

The next five routes start at 'ground level' in the alcove beneath the fixed rope traverse

Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse. Stick clip, up corner and onto face. Past another bolt and up to rap station.

FA: James Fisher & Iain McKay, 2005

Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Two bolts to rap station.

FA: James Fisher & Iain McKay, 2005

Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Up face passing four bolts. Traverse to weakness in roof and FH. Over roof past another bolt and onto rap station.

FA: James Fisher & Iain McKay, 2005

Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Up face a little to the left of 'Wax On Wax Off'. Clip a carrot in the small hollow then finish up 'Wax On Wax Off'. Pretty contrived, but fun.

FA: James Fisher & Iain McKay, 2005

Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Quite nice for the grade. Up the arete past two carrots and onto slab. Clip another carrot before stepping onto the face to the right and up past another 3 carrots.

FA: James Fisher & Iain McKay, 2005

Start at DBB on the third height traverse near Send In The Clowns. Start is a little hinky and you need to head R from the belay before committing to the arête, the rock is better around the corner. Straight up the arête on easy ground to lip of roof, traverse left under the roof to double ringbolt belay.

This is a nice variant start to Send In The Clowns. Start as for the original in the niche but don’t go up the main crackline. Instead, climb out L onto the arête, climbing this to the rooflet, and then up the juggy orange face as per the original, or finish up Big Top for the best exposure!

FA: Dave Barre & JJ O'Brien, 2005

A novelty finish for Send In The Clowns which makes the route even more exciting. Instead of going up the juggy headwall, traverse L around the arête and keep traversing past an exposed step-across. Finish easily up minding rope drag.

FA: Lee Skidmore & Stephen Parker, 2003

Most popular route at the cliff. Awesome positions, exposure and gear - a must-do! Starts 4m L of the double RB belay in a niche. Climb easily until the wide section narrows to a superb off-finger crack up the green slab. Climb this using the one great hand jam to ledge. Traverse L out onto the beautifully exposed orange prow posing for photos, then monkey up the buckets to the big tree on the ledge.

FA: Lee Cujes & Geoff Parker, 2000

A bold DF to Send In The Clowns. Climb the start of SITC to the stance below orange arête. Use a stick to place a thread with a long sling. Straight up the committing arête past a blue alien placement on the L. From the ledge, go straight up.

FA: Lee Cujes, Samantha Coles & Rob Knight

FFA: 2003

Yet another finish for SITC. Climb the start of SITC to big ledge at the base of the orange liftshaft. Strenuously bridge up the shaft to rest beneath the roof. Swing R and climb the hand crack to the top.

FA: Lee Cujes & Stephen Parker

FFA: 2001

An outrageous and deceptive foray across Redcliff's finest orange rock. See topo 5. Climb the start of Send In The Clowns to big ledge at the base of the orange lift-shaft. Step R into the leaning flake-corner. Up this (hard) to some good holds. Traverse R along break, then straight up.

FA: Lee Skidmore & Stephen Parker (all gear placed on lead), 2003

Just L of Desperation Prow 's ringbolted arête is a very chalked up corner. Okay, so it’s not chalk. Still, it’s a great line. The start is bouldery on thin, techy wire placements leading into the stained corner with good gear. The top section offers overhanging fingerlocks. Finish by climbing good holds on either side of the offwidth.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Sam Coles & Adam Power, 2005

One of the best routes on the cliff offering superb climbing on excellent rock. Start at double RB belay. Climbs up left side of arête passing four RB’s before switching to the right side of the arête passing another four RB’s to top.

FA: Phil Box & Lee Cujes

FFA: 2001

Stickclip high RB and power up overhung bowl. Up arête past second RB to ledge. Finish up No Idea's DF on the arête. See topo 5.

FA: Lee Skidmore, 2003

Excellent, and definitely the way to climb it. From ledge on original run it out up the arête on L to horizontal (thank-god gear) and up arête to top.

FA: Alison Greenhalgh & Steve Waite, 2001

Stickclip first RB, then climb up R of it (hard) to ledge. Black slab (two RB’s) to ledge, then up corner on gear (sling for chockstone). A #5 SLCD would help for the top section.

FA: Stephen Parker & Geoff Parker, 2001

Up the big corner.

Up the cracked arete 1 m right of Cracked Glass, veering right under the roof. Belay from DBB or continue to the top

FFA: Winnie Yum, 7 Oct 2017

The overhung arête 3m R. Reachy start (RB) past loose sandy stuff gives a RB and a crank to a ledge (sling). RB on L and easily to top. Belay and rap from RB station.

FA: Lee Cujes & Phil Box, 2001

Start at the double RB station atop Sweet Slam (short rap in). Traverse L off the ledge under the roof, and follow the obvious half-height break all the way along the cliff to finish up Big Top. Has its moments, and could be a real challenge for those who are very short.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Erik Smits & Phil Box, 2004

3m R. Short face climbing up a cracked and pocketed wall on natural gear that can be a bit fiddly to place. Tricky start to first horizontal break. Place #1 SLCD and power through on crimps and small edges to good pockets and a small wire. Now it's easy face climbing on SLCD’s and small wires to the top. Double RB station.

FA: Stephen Parker, Brian Moes & Geoffrey Parker, 2000

3m R at the short overhung wall. Hueco to break. Clip RB, then crimp up to pocket and ledge (place #1.5 SLCD in pocket after latching the ledge). Mantle, then easy corner on gear. You’re not doing it properly if you use the blocky footholds on the L down low.

FA: Geoff Parker & Stephen Parker, 2001

5m R at the orange, blocky corner. Heinous hand/fist crack start (tape!) to beneath roof. Swing L through roof step L and climb the arête past a RB to a runout finish (don’t fall!).

FA: Phil Box & Lee Cujes, 2001

Unfortunately, start as for TGDRA. Once above roof, continue directly up corner. Phil’s finest route-naming effort!

FA: Phil Box & Lee Cujes, 2001

Over the bottomless start. Step L to arête (gear) then up to first RB, then lovely climbing past the final two RB’s to the top.

FA: Phil Box & Lee Cujes, 2001

15m L of the start of the crag. L-facing corner with bottomless start (very hard for some) above the beach. All natural gear, except for a shared final RB.

FA: Phil Box & Lee Cujes, 2001

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