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Red Rocks

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Description

* PLEASE NOTE * climbing is banned here from 1 August to 31 December due to nesting of peregrine falcons.

Ten minutes further along the track from Kambah Rocks, Red Rocks is a well-bolted sport area providing great opportunities for leading. Note that many of the anchors are set below the top of the cliff because of the loose scree at the top - for this reason, it is not particularly ideal for top-roping. Like Kambah Rocks, the area can get fairly dirty, and given the angular nature of the rock and often fairly small holds, that can make life quite interesting if you haven't bothered to clean your prospective climb beforehand.

There are a number of parking options - Kambah Pool, nearby land or even at Pine Island if you want a longer walk. Note that there have been cars broken into at Kambah Pool.

The cliff itself can be found at google map coordinates -35.40888,149.034246

Climbs are described left to right.

Access issues

Closed from 1 August to 31 December each year for peregrine nesting season.

Gate at the Kambah Pool carpark is closed at 9pm each night.

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Approach

Do NOT approach via Freshford Station on Point Hut Road. It is not public access and the farmer is getting rather annoyed at people driving and walking through his property.

There are several walking options, all of which converge on the Murrumbidgee Discovery Trail opposite the cliff. From here (35°24'27.7"S 149°02'10.3"E / https://goo.gl/maps/iMekq5pg5vkee1Xa7 ) follow a goat track downhill to the river. When the water is high you'll have to swim across - best at the upstream end of the cliffs, where you can access the water on both sides via sloping ramps. At medium volume you can jump across the rapids at the downstream end of the pool (a rope or carefully-selected log might help). At low water there are easy stepping stones at both ends of the pool. Get an indication of the river height from the Lobbs Hole gauge (1m or less is low, the upstream crossing still goes at 1.75m, maybe even a bit higher) or Mt Macdonald gauge (less reliable as it's downstream).

Walking options:

Option 1 (40min): park at Kambah Pool. Follow the Murrumbidgee Discovery Trail upstream (south). Go past Kambah Rocks and keep walking another ten minutes.

Option 2 (35-40min): park at the Lakeside Leisure Centre, Anketell Street, Tuggeranong. Cross Athllon Drive and find the old stone wall directly opposite the leisure centre carpark. Hop the fence and follow the stone wall over the hill to a stile. Cross the stile and drop down to the creek (steps). Cross the creek, through the fence and turn left. Follow the fenceline until you pick up the Murrumbidgee Discovery Trail. Either follow this or take a short-cut over a saddle and down to a dam to pick up the trail again.

Option 3 (20 min): ride your mountain bike from Kambah Pool or the Leisure Centre at Anketell Street. If riding from Anketell Street, follow the cycle path north along Athllon Drive for 50m then pick up the gravel track that curves around next to the creek. Turn right across the wooden bridge, turn left and follow the Murrumbidgee Discovery Trail.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Areas

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Grades

Routes

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Grade Route

Originally graded 14, this is/was the easiest route on the crag. The farthest left route, trending rightwards towards the top to a lower off.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2007

Great technical and sustained climbing on really good rock. Start at the corner and climb up right to the vague arête and boulder your way up weaving left and right of this feature until you get to the last bolt then head right to the anchors of Milla Jovovich. Might be harder than it says on the tin, but maybe not. You be the judge. Fantastic climbing either way!

FA: Duncan Brown, 16 Apr

Originally graded 14, this is the third route from the left. Trends left after the first few metres, then straight up to a lower off.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2007

Some natural pro required - take small wires and cames. Trends leftward up to a walk off. Watch yourself on the slippery stuff up top!

Bouldery start, leads to sustained & at time’s dynamic, corner climbing. Don’t get sucked into climbing to far left out of the corner, climbing gets harder if you do! (Warning: don’t pull on X block, wouldn’t come free, though take care).

Very height dependant - long reachy moves some my not be able to make.

Closed Project - Justin Ryan. Hard stemming project up the obvious corner system to finish at the anchor shared with 'La Renaissance'.

Set by Justin Ryan, Apr 2020

Hard, bouldery climbing up the uniquely Gritstone-esque arête joining 'Wide World Of Sports' for the last bolt and up to the shared anchor.

FFA: Justin Ryan, 2 May

First route climbed on the crag. Hard, bouldery climbing on great rock. Shares a lower off with 'Sausage Factory'.

FA: Mike Peck & Simon Carter, 1991

All killer, no filler.

Just like the similarly named virus this route is tricky to figure out, but worth putting in the effort to solve.

Bouldery, beta intensive, power endurance climbing that doesn't relent for what seems like miles leads you to a show stopper boulder up the arête to the anchors.

Bolted by Chris Warner in 1998. Anchors replaced and several bolts moved to better positions by Duncan Brown.

* Difficulty is a bit height dependent and anyone with a short arm span will find several sections quite hard. There is also the opportunity to step left into 'Wide World Of Sports' between the 4th and 5th bolts to take a rest. If you are quite short, or deliberately go more direct and avoid stepping left you can probably take an extra grade.

FFA: Duncan Brown, 2 May

A fun and obvious link up.

Climb 'Watching Every Move' to the 7th bolt, then climb up and left into 'La Corona' for its last 2 bolts culminating with the spicy arête boulder problem to the anchors.

FFA: Duncan Brown, 3 May

Sustained moves up the corner.

FA: Justin Ryan, 1 Feb 2014

Climb 'Watching Every Move' past its crux clipping 5 bolts, clip the bolt to the right as for 'Cheerleader' and head right but finish straight up 'Little Bad Girl'.

A more consistent and sustained way to finish 'Watching Every Move'. Very fun!

FA: Jake Parker, 18 May

Up 'Watching Every Move' and traverse right after the crux, crossing 'Little Bad Girl'. Excellent sustained pumper climbing that is rare in Canberra!!!

FA: Justin Ryan, Apr 2015

Another fun, long link up for those that love pumpy routes that feel more like a journey than a boulder.

Start up 'Cheerleader' and at the last bolt before the anchor (the anchor of 'Heaven Sent Honey') head right past 2 bolts to join 'Beautiful and Bald Like Barten' and finish up this to the top.

A little creativity and some long slings on the first 10 metres can prevent rope drag from becoming an issue on this at the end of the route.

FA: Duncan Brown, 10 May

The longest and hardest of the link ups. Climb 'Cheerleader' to it's last bolt before the anchor it shares with 'Heaven Sent Honey', climb right past 2 bolts, cross 'Beautiful And Bald Like Barten' and climb the entire upper half of 'Dial M For Monkey' to its anchors.

Long, sustained, fun, pumpy and worth the effort to make it work.

FA: Duncan Brown, 18 May

A hold broke off near the start (10th May 2020), but a new hold has now magically appeared.

Excellent moves up the arête! You get a no hands rest in the middle and then hit the crux and a big move above the break. Good for training laps.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

A hold broke off near the start (10th May 2020), but a new hold has now magically appeared.

Up 'Little Bad Girl', then branch out right onto the face. Good moves and a cool crux. Mostly fun moves on good holds and crap feet.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

A long, pumpy link up that climbs extremely well and provides a length of endurance sport climbing rare around here.

Use a bunch of long slings to reduce rope drag.

Climb Heaven Sent Honey to its last bolt and then traverse right via two new bolts to join Beautiful And Bald Like Barten and finish up to this route's anchors.

Grade will depend on your size as Heaven Sent Honey is morpho / height dependent in the middle. Take whatever grade feels appropriate for you.

FA: Duncan Brown, 12 Mar

Another mega long pumper route, rare for Canberra. Climb as for The Quarantine Zone but continue a little further right and finish up the much harder upper section of Dial M For Monkey.

Both the lower and upper sections are a bit morpho and shorter folk will find them much harder, so just take the grade that fits your experience.

A bunch of really long alpine draws all the way up Heaven Sent Honey make the rope drag on the finish headwall nearly non existent.

Really enjoyable endurance climbing and well worth the effort for anyone seeking a harder endurance route near town.

FA: Duncan Brown, 28 Mar

Originally finished about half height but now extended by Andrew Bull to give full value climbing up the centre of the crag.

FA: Tony Barten & Andrew Bull, 1991

FA: Andrew Bull, 2011

Up Beautiful and Bald Like Barden to half height, then break out diagonally right through roofs to lower-off.

FA: Chris Warner, 2011

Up SA arete to 2/3 height. Traverse left then up sidepulls to lower-off.

FA: Chris Warner, 2011

Start to the right of the largest white patch on the wall. Up face and arete, then through hard moves to lower-off.

FA: Andrew Bull, 2010

A long route with hard moves separated by rests - the climb has a couple of loose blocks and quite a bit of dirt after it's been raining. Start on the small ledge below the small and shallow chimney. Climb the chimney to the ledge at 6 metres. Tend left through the steep area, then up past a ledge and more steepness, to lower off just below the top of the cliff.

FA: Peter Mills & John Fantini, 1992

Warning Rock: hollow block ?loose

Warning Rock: Finish block/jug loose

One of the best routes at the grade in Canberra. Start in the corner moving left under a little roof then up the blunt arête and onto small ledges to chain at the top.

FA: Chris Warner, 2011

Start as for Arga Noah but move right under the overhang with a hard move to the lip of the ledge. Continue straight up to chains.

FA: Chris Warner, 2012

Start up Carp Attack then head up the arete (left variant) to finish at chains shared with Carp Attack.

FA: Justin Ryan & Adam Robens, 2007

Well protected and easy through the lower part, then a few good harder moves above. Heads right where Straight Edged Emo goes straight up the arete.

FA: Mike Peck & C Patrick, 1992

Easy up through the blocky section to a ledge then technical climbing on the vertical face.

FA: Chris Warner, 1 Mar 2013

Great climbing. Start climbing up easy to the ledge. Can be finished here at 16. Continue up the face on good holds with fun crux moves.

FA: Chris Warner & Clinton Szady, 2012

Tricky sections of climbing separated by easy climbing. Starts at the vague left facing arete. Be careful of tumbling blocks off this climb.

FA: Andrew Bull & Tony Barten, 1991

Start in a short, left facing corner. Traverse diagonally right up the slab then head straight up following the bolts.

FA: Mike Peck & Brogan Bunt

Start at the fin, boulder to the ledge and then head straight up the face. A slung cam might help protect the runout bit off the first ledge. Finish at lower off for Red Sorghum. Optional #1 friend.

FA: Mike Peck & Brogan Bunt, 1992

Boulder to the ledge, then up the steep wall. Squirm into a short corner, mantle the ledge then step right and join the end of Bosch Imperialist up to the lower-off.

FA: Mike Peck, John Stone & Ken Luck, 1991

Start off the boulder and 'slide' up the smooth grey wall to the ledge. Up the funky corner and steep wall to a good stance, then mantle leftwards onto ledge. Keep stemming upwards then grunt and yet another mantle onto the top ledge. Finish at lower off.

FA: Mike Peck, Ken Luck & John Stone, 1991

Shares a start with three other lower grade climbs, following the obvious blunt arete at the right end of the cliff. The route originally climbed through the ledge to the end of Bosch Imperialist, if you want to finish that way.

FA: Tony Barten & Andrew Bull, 1991

Same start as all the far-right hand climbs, then up to the chains under the roof.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2006

Climb The Little Unknown from the shared starting point of the far-right climbs, then stop at the chains before the overlap.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2006

Climb Willie the Pooh, heading right before the chains. Hard through the overlap and of reasonable length.

FA: Unknown

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