Grade Route Gear style Popularity
16 Willie The Pooh

Climb The Little Unknown from the shared starting point of the far-right climbs, then stop at the chains before the overlap.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2006

Sport 15m
18 Willy Wonka

Same start as all the far-right hand climbs, then up to the chains under the roof.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2006

Sport 15m, 6
22 Waters Of Chaos

Great climbing. Start climbing up easy to the ledge. Can be finished here at 16. Continue up the face on good holds with fun crux moves.

FA: Chris Warner & Clinton Szady, 2012

Sport 30m, 2
25 Spank You Very Much

Easy up through the blocky section to a ledge then technical climbing on the vertical face.

FA: Chris Warner, 1 Mar 2013

Sport 25m, 10
22 Straight Edged Emo

Start up Carp Attack then head up the arete (left variant) to finish at chains shared with Carp Attack.

FA: Justin Ryan & Adam Robens, 2007

Sport 18m, 7
23 Twilight

Start as for Arga Noah but move right under the overhang with a hard move to the lip of the ledge. Continue straight up to chains.

FA: Chris Warner, 2012

Sport 20m
22 Arga Noah

One of the best routes at the grade in Canberra. Start in the corner moving left under a little roof then up the blunt arête and onto small ledges to chain at the top.

FA: Chris Warner, 2011

Sport 28m, 10
25 Separation Anxiety

Start to the right of the largest white patch on the wall. Up face and arete, then through hard moves to lower-off.

FA: Andrew Bull, 2010

Sport 25m, 9
25 Crashing Clouds

Up SA arete to 2/3 height. Traverse left then up sidepulls to lower-off.

FA: Chris Warner, 2011

Sport 23m, 10
26 Dial M for Monkey

Up Beautiful and Bald Like Barden to half height, then break out diagonally right through roofs to lower-off.

FA: Chris Warner, 2011

Sport 25m, 11
24 Beautiful and Bald Like Barten

Originally finished about half height but now extended by Andrew Bull to give full value climbing up the centre of the crag.

FA: Tony Barten & Andrew Bull, 1991

FA: Andrew Bull, 2011

Sport 25m, 11
28 Monkeys In Quarantine

Another mega long pumper route, rare for Canberra. Climb as for The Quarantine Zone but continue a little further right and finish up the much harder upper section of Dial M For Monkey.

Both the lower and upper sections are a bit morpho and shorter folk will find them much harder, so just take the grade that fits your experience.

A bunch of really long alpine draws all the way up Heaven Sent Honey make the rope drag on the finish headwall nearly non existent.

Really enjoyable endurance climbing and well worth the effort for anyone seeking a harder endurance route near town.

FA: Duncan Brown, 28 Mar 2020

Sport 37m, 18
27 The Quarantine Zone

A long, pumpy link up that climbs extremely well and provides a length of endurance sport climbing rare around here.

Use a bunch of long slings to reduce rope drag.

Climb Heaven Sent Honey to its last bolt and then traverse right via two new bolts to join Beautiful And Bald Like Barten and finish up to this route's anchors.

Grade will depend on your size as Heaven Sent Honey is morpho / height dependent in the middle. Take whatever grade feels appropriate for you.

FA: Duncan Brown, 12 Mar 2020

Sport 37m, 17
26 Heaven Sent Honey

A hold broke off near the start (10th May 2020), but a new hold has now magically appeared.

Up 'Little Bad Girl', then branch out right onto the face. Good moves and a cool crux. Mostly fun moves on good holds and crap feet.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

Sport 15m, 9
25 Little Bad Girl

A hold broke off near the start (10th May 2020), but a new hold has now magically appeared.

Excellent moves up the arête! You get a no hands rest in the middle and then hit the crux and a big move above the break. Good for training laps.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2012

Sport 15m, 9
28 Cheer For The Monkey

The longest and hardest of the link ups. Climb 'Cheerleader' to it's last bolt before the anchor it shares with 'Heaven Sent Honey', climb right past 2 bolts, cross 'Beautiful And Bald Like Barten' and climb the entire upper half of 'Dial M For Monkey' to its anchors.

Long, sustained, fun, pumpy and worth the effort to make it work.

FA: Duncan Brown, 18 May 2020

Sport 45m, 22
27 Cheer For The Beautiful

Another fun, long link up for those that love pumpy routes that feel more like a journey than a boulder.

Start up 'Cheerleader' and at the last bolt before the anchor (the anchor of 'Heaven Sent Honey') head right past 2 bolts to join 'Beautiful and Bald Like Barten' and finish up this to the top.

A little creativity and some long slings on the first 10 metres can prevent rope drag from becoming an issue on this at the end of the route.

FA: Duncan Brown, 10 May 2020

Sport 42m, 22
26 Cheerleader

Up 'Watching Every Move' and traverse right after the crux, crossing 'Little Bad Girl'. Excellent sustained pumper climbing that is rare in Canberra!!!

FA: Justin Ryan, Apr 2015

Sport 30m
25 Every Girl

Climb 'Watching Every Move' past its crux clipping 5 bolts, clip the bolt to the right as for 'Cheerleader' and head right but finish straight up 'Little Bad Girl'.

A more consistent and sustained way to finish 'Watching Every Move'. Very fun!

FA: Jake Parker, 18 May 2020

Sport 18m, 10
25 Watching Every Move

Sustained moves up the corner.

FA: Justin Ryan, 1 Feb 2014

Sport 15m, 8
26 Watching La Corona

A fun and obvious link up.

Climb 'Watching Every Move' to the 7th bolt, then climb up and left into 'La Corona' for its last 2 bolts culminating with the spicy arête boulder problem to the anchors.

FFA: Duncan Brown, 3 May 2020

Sport 18m, 10
28 La Corona

All killer, no filler.

Just like the similarly named virus this route is tricky to figure out, but worth putting in the effort to solve.

Bouldery, beta intensive, power endurance climbing that doesn't relent for what seems like miles leads you to a show stopper boulder up the arête to the anchors.

Bolted by Chris Warner in 1998. Anchors replaced and several bolts moved to better positions by Duncan Brown.

* Difficulty is a bit height dependent and anyone with a short arm span will find several sections quite hard. There is also the opportunity to step left into 'Wide World Of Sports' between the 4th and 5th bolts to take a rest. If you are quite short, or deliberately go more direct and avoid stepping left you can probably take an extra grade.

FFA: Duncan Brown, 2 May 2020

Sport 18m, 9
27/28 Sausage Factory

Hard, bouldery climbing up the uniquely Gritstone-esque arête joining 'Wide World Of Sports' for the last bolt and up to the shared anchor.

FFA: Justin Ryan, 2 May 2020

Sport 15m, 6
Project - Justin

Closed Project - Justin Ryan. Hard stemming project up the obvious corner system to finish at the anchor shared with 'La Renaissance'.

Set: Justin Ryan, Apr 2020

SportProject 15m, 6
20 Milla Jovovich

Originally graded 14, this is the third route from the left. Trends left after the first few metres, then straight up to a lower off.

There is an optional left hand variant start at a few grades stouter

FA: Justin Ryan, 2007

Sport 12m, 5
23 Herd Immunity

Great technical and sustained climbing on really good rock. Start at the corner and climb up right to the vague arête and boulder your way up weaving left and right of this feature until you get to the last bolt then head right to the anchors of Milla Jovovich. Might be harder than it says on the tin, but maybe not. You be the judge. Fantastic climbing either way!

FA: Duncan Brown, 16 Apr 2020

Sport 14m, 6
16 Ingrid Bergmann

Originally graded 14, this is/was the easiest route on the crag. The farthest left route, trending rightwards towards the top to a lower off.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2007

Sport 10m, 4
Red Rocks Bouldering
V6 Smoothie With Chia

Sit start at the far left of the block and move right to join and finish up "Smoothie".

FA: Duncan Brown, 14 Mar 2014

Boulder 5m
V6 Flowing Waters

Sit start on the big hold and move right around the arete and up on slopers.

FA: Duncan Brown, 2008

Boulder 4m