Routes in Australia by allen

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Showing all 76 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Tasmania South East Hobart and surrounds Taroona Beaches Hinsby Sea Cliffs
10 Black Mamba

Takes the corner direct to bolt belay.

FA: Conrad Wansborough, D Meerding, Paul Pritchard & P Allen, 2019

Sport 9m, 3
Queensland North Townsville Mt Stuart The Playground
20 Fist Full of Ants

Start at "Wimps in the Gym" move left at roof then straight away climb diagonally up and right past carrot to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

FFA: Allen McGill, Scott Johnson & Susan Dyer, 1991

Mixed trad 20m, 4
Queensland South East Granite Belt Girraween Second Pyramid
21 Scimitar

Start: Base of big obvious leftward leaning crack.

A soaring and beautiful looking curved crack. Described as one of the best routes in the State. The start is unmistakable - the immodest, arching crackline.

  1. 35m (21) The line spears leftwards up to a semi-detached flake.

  2. 35m (18) Glide leftwards again on excellent stone. Before the crack expires, head straight up slab to the top.

FA: Ian Thomas & Trevor Gynther, 1974

FFA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

Trad 70m
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Maroon Wedgie's Place Lower
19 Nothing Much

The prominent crack in the middle of the lower cliff, R of Something Special. A beautiful line up the leaning flake/crack. Rap off small tree on ledge above - out right.

FA: Robbie Allen, 1982

Trad 20m
22 Something Special

Follow the thin crack as shown on the topo. Varied crack & face climbing.

FA: Robbie Allen, 1982

FFA: Takashi & Evan Bieske, 1984

Trad 20m
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Maroon Nympho Buttress
24 The Nympho

One of Australia’s classic climbs, but only for the chosen few.

  1. 27m 17 - Start below cave – the RH dot in the alcove below the FH. Up on good flakes & gear to the pillar, then bold moves above the FH (no more gear) thru the overhang & into the cave. Belay chains on left.

  2. 24m 24 - Start in L facing corner, then up R onto sloping ledge 12m up (gear), then out L over bulge (more gear), then up - follow the under-clinging flake out L to trad belay.

  3. 27m 22 - Continue up manky crack to top.

FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron (aided), 1969

FFA: Tobin Sorensen & Jon Allen, 1979

Mixed trad 78m, 3, 1
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Mt Barney Leaning Peak
13 Plum Bob

Approach the Leaning Peak from the Short Leaning Ridge. Two cracks become obvious apart from the face. The left crack separates Leaning Peak from North Peak. Descend into the right crack and belay of tree in right crack.

  1. 30m Up past block and small crack top right. Left to tree belay.

  2. 20m Up easily to tree belay.

  3. 70m A wandering 40m to tree, followed by a 20m pitch.

  4. 50m Vertical mank bash. Tree belay. At this point, the Meadow's route traverses left.

  5. (13) 25m Tree belay 6m above end of Pitch 4. Climb up face to bridge on belay tree and wall to a micro-ledge. Left of bulge and up 12m to V-crack. Tree belay.

  6. 35m Weave up to overhang. Traverse from left to right to small pillar. Up pillar to tree belay.

  7. 30m Wander up. Tree belay.

  8. 40m Up crack between blocks or traverse to mantel up the blocks. Tree belay.

  9. 20m Up wall and crack on right-hand side. This 12m wall is severely delicate. Tree belay.

  10. 20m Move up left away from overhanging crack. Dicey traverse right above overhanging crack. Notable exposure up to summit.

FA: S. Tanner & R. Allen, 1969

Trad 310m
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Frog Buttress West of the access track
18 Ethicmans Dilemma

A complete sandbag at its old grade of 16. Strap on your knee pads and climb the tight orange groove R of DO. The crack flares a lot, so getting gear to stay in is quite a mission. Physically challenging climbing to a stance at 2/3 height. Careful at top, block on right is a little loose.

FA: Ross Allen & Rick White, 1970

Trad 22m
18 Kookamunga

Just to the R of the previous route is this crappy little addition to the cliff. A dirty little corner that really has nothing to recommend it.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Robbie Allen., 1983

Trad 5m
20 Drop-out Variant Finish

Not as good as the Direct Finish (DDF). This is the thin crack up the face directly above Pibrock. Worth a trip if you have done the others. It packs quite a punch for such a midget of a route.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Robbie Allen, 1983

Trad 5m
19 Cold Turkey

Absolutely brutal and unrelenting off-width climbing at its worst. Feels closer to 23. The chockstones mentioned in the Joe Lynch guide must have fallen out! Take big gear, elbow pads, grim determination and a vomit bag. You can get off this disgusting pile of crap as for BB.

FA: Ross Allen & Rob Staszewski, 1970

Trad 27m
15 Devil's Wart

Simply brilliant middle grade climbing. Easily the best 15 at the cliff. Start at the obvious corner behind the large tree. Up this on brilliant holds and jams to a rest at the cave. Gulp hard, plug in yet more bombproof gear and blast out of the cave to some very airy positions. Wobble and bridge up the final corner to an easy top out. Chains can be found at the tree. There is some hollow rock on this climb, but you don't need to use any of it.

FA: Ross Allen & Ian Cameron, 1970

Trad 27m
15 Jockette

Climb the outside of the body crack. Committing but enjoyable climbing on good edges. Better than it looks.

FA: Rick White & Ross Allen., 1970

Trad 22m
9 Short and Sweet

Not the most classy route to be found. Stop and belay at the large tree. Scramble easily off L, or rap.

FA: Ross Allen & Ben Whitehouse, 1969

Trad 10m
21 R Popping Pillars

The furthest R arete on this pillar is a desperate solo problem. Up through a tiny roof, and then a little easier to the top.

FA: Robbie Allen (TR then free solo), 1983

Trad 7m
16/17 Wasp Nest

Short crack above 'Rhyolite Fruit'.

FA: Ross Allen, 1970

Trad 6m
19 Magical Mystery Tour

Classic crack climbing. Start at the finger crack as it continues to widen the whole way up the route. Don't be fooled by the wide nature of the top, although big gear is essential to protect this route (#4 and #5 BD cams won't go astray), you are able to bridge past almost all of the wide thrashing! A 70m rope will get you back to the ground from the chain around the tree.

FA: Rick White & Ross Allen (yoyo)., 1969

Trad 34m
17 If

Adventure climbing up a wandering line. Well worth a visit. Blast up the initial cracked arete to shallow nut then good runner (or just solo it as it's easy climbing) to a stance in a cave and a very old piton(can be backed with small nut). From here step L into the corner system and up this line with good gear and one more equally crappy piton (also can be backed with natural pro). Tree belay on left.

FA: Ross Allen & Rick White, 1978

Trad 30m
23 The Guns of Navaronne

Update: As of June 2017 the "magic block" is gone! Grade and description are awaiting an update. Take care with all the hanging blocks in the vicinity of the roof.

Very photogenic climbing up the only line here that has anything close to a roof! Up the initial blank corner with loads of class to a rest at the "magic block". Fire up and hand traverse R into the void! A hand to fist-sized cam at the lip keeps things sane. Spicy moves above to the top.

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

Trad 30m
16 Christian

A gruntologist's dream. Clang your hexes for joy and release a tribal yelp before plunging head first into this body chimney. It climbs better than it looks. A serious lead however due to some questionable rock. Take big gear to keep it sane and somewhat safe.

FA: Ross Allen, Ian Cameron & Rick White, 1975

Trad 17m
19 Humility

A classic one-move wonder, the face R of WC. Start off the ledge on the R. Wobble up on thin and balancy moves until a jug on the L arete comes to hand. Easily up the line past a piton (hidden from view) to a tricky little mantle move at the ledge. Easily up to Plume ledge.

FA: Ross Allen, 1970

Trad 15m
19 Infinity

A contender for the best 19 in the country! The old school off-width is the only way to go for apprentice gruntologists. All the sane people start in the corner to the R. Up this past a tricky move out of a cave at 1/3 height to a stance (crux). From here, up the beautifully sculpted line to the top. Simply magnificent climbing. Rapping on a 70m rope will get you to the middle of the scramble at the base of the climb.

FA: Ross Allen & Rick White., 1970

Trad 40m
25 Barbed-wire Canoe

Absolutely brilliant climbing, although possibly one of the most sustained routes here. Brilliant bridging up the open-book corner to the flake at the top.

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

Trad 27m
25 Green Plastic Comb

A very hard route to protect well on lead. Start on the cracked arete, up this for a few moves and then out onto the R face. Quiver up the face on thin holds with RPs and flared token cam placements guaranteeing your concentration! A hard move on the arete moves the route to the L face and an excellent #3 RP. From there, flail up the face to where the obvious diagonal crack line leads R to a ledge. This crack is actually quite easy but feels relatively hard due to the fact that most climbers are pumped completely senseless by then! Follow this to a ledge, then easily up. Rap as for SIL.

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen., 1979

Trad 20m
18 Arknamton 2

A bit of a ramble up to a corner which has a few OK moves then make your way to a tree and rap or continue as for A1.

FA: Ross Allen & Sid Tanner, 1969

Trad 30m
14 R Arknamton 1

Grotty climbing on loose flakes makes this yet another death lead classic! Up the hollow flakes, with surprisingly ok gear to the ledge. Ascend the corner behind to the top.

FA: Ross Allen & Sid Tanner, 1969

Trad 30m
22 Left Behind

Halfway up OA, this short climb traverses R over the slab, under the block, and finishes up the arete (head L onto wall near the finish).

FA: Robbie Allen

Trad 12m
Queensland South East Scenic Rim Frog Buttress East of the access track
17 King Shits and Dead Shits

A great variant start to LLL. Much better moves than LLL but you still wind up in the disgusting V-groove of LLL. Start around the corner 3m R of LLL. Up the line above to join LLL at the base of the groove.

FA: Ross Allen & Bill Atkinson., 1970

Trad 20m
23 R Cracks in the Pavement

A hernia-inducing beast, up the very thin line. RPs are essential to keep you from cratering. A bouldery start up a thin corner 2m L of LLL. A difficult mantle onto the ledge that Impulse finishes on (belay from here possible). If you are keen, motor up the corner and hand crack to the top of the pillar. Finish up LLL pitch 2!

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

Trad 25m
18 Warrumbugles in My Backyard

Rubbish! A choss-ridden, mank infested gardener's delight. The corner to the L of FA. Approach by climbing either of the last two routes, or rap in from the LLL belay tree.

FA: Gordon Bieske & Robbie Allen, 1982

Trad 12m
22 Snipe

Tough. A dyno off the ground sets the theme. Follow this up the arete past 2 bolts. Hard not to step into Pollux. Finish on Theory Ledge.

FA: Robbie Allen & Marty Beare, 1983

Mixed trad 23m, 2
27 Catcher in the Rye

Super thin face climbing up the shallow V-groove. A high runner can be placed by climbing up Inquisition and stepping across as high up as your ethics let you. Kim had 7 hex nearly half way up the route on the 2nd ascent. Top rope the initial section (achieved by using The Force/levitation), then go up the sustained corner.

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

Trad 25m
20 R Cut Short

Crappy and dangerous. The corner found on the L side of the dark buttress to the R of DSEB. Up this and then traverse off L.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Robbie Allen, 1982

Trad 13m
18 X Death Road 2,000

Complete crap. The horrible blank line 3m R of MPFC actually looks a lot better than it is (which is really saying something). Climb directly up the line over numerous loose blocks, piles of dirt and the bones of the last maniac who was desperate enough to lead such utter mank.

FA: Allen Hansen & Ray Lassman, 1984

Trad 22m
22 Yeah, Yeah, Yeah!

A lot scarier now that the 1st piton has fallen out. Start up EL, but step R out of the cave, and up to a stance at a bolt (Hanger is missing). Go up to the eerie piton hole (gear possible), and continue up the arete to the second piton. Finish directly up the nose.

FA: Andrew Barry, Robbie Allen & Gordon Bieske, 1983

Trad 28m
Queensland South East Brisbane Kangaroo Point KP North
21 Rear Entry

More joy.

Start: Slightly right of Light Box #11. Up broken face, past a RB, then traverse slightly right and up to small ledge. Clip high RB and fire straight up the improbable looking wall past another RB. Traverse left and up the recess to below overhanging block. Clip final RB and jug up to chain above left. Note, this route tends to seep for some days after rain.

FA: Andrew Barry & Robbie Allen, 1984

Sport 22m, 4
New South Wales and ACT Northwest Slopes and plains Kaputar The Governor North Face
22 Soul on Ice

Start: Below right hand end of main overhangs, left of 'The Promised Land'.

  1. 40m (22) (crux) Up orange rock to right of overhanging buttress. Traverse left into dihedral up middle of buttress. Up this to roof with V-crack on left, over roof to stance.

  2. 40m (-) Up line.

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

Trad 80m, 2
23 The Great Barrier Roof

A sustained penetration of huge overhangs.

Start: As for 'Blood on the Moon'.

  1. 30m (23) crux) Up shattered wall to orange offwidth, traverse directly right on lip of overhang to arete, up arete to horizontal undercling, traverse left and up crack splitting top overhangs.

  2. 37m (-) Follow natural line to top.

FA: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen (alt), 1979

Trad 67m, 2
23 Double Trouble

A fine crackline.

Start: Below two tiered roof, about 5m right of 'White Heat'.

  1. 30m (23) (crux) Take corner crack directly below two tiered roof for about 8m, traverse left on horizontal crack into first crackline which splits the side of the buttress. Up crack to belay stance.

  2. 40m (-) Follow natural line to top.

FA: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen (alt), 1979

Trad 70m, 2
24 White Heat

A classic roof problem.

Start: Marked. 9m right of 'Spook', below extreme left end of main overhangs

  1. 36m (24) (crux) Tough thin crack splitting middle of roof, follow crack to belay stance.

  2. 41m (-) Follow natural line to top.

FA: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen, 1979

Trad 77m, 2
24 One for the Road

A nice warm up for the hard men.

Start: 10m right of 'Patient Scruff', the middle of three lines through the overhang.

  1. 18m (24) Up strenuously through roof (crux), follow crackline on wall to stance.

  2. 12m (-) Follow natural line to top.

FA: Tobon Sorrensen & John Allen, 1979

Trad 30m, 2
New South Wales and ACT Northwest Slopes and plains Kaputar Euglah Rock
26 Aslan
  1. 25m (23) Up crack starting 2m left of fig growing in corner, under steep hanging corner in the next bay right of primal scream. Climb to ledge at half height.

  2. 25m (26) continue up corner through roof to stemming corner. Small cams and RPs essential

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

Trad 50m, 2
22 Great Oz Wall

Up the wall left of PS. The start has a little gear down low then is unprotected until you gain the crack. An alternate start that is still run out can be done via the first 3 bolts of Drongoland to the left. Continue up crack to twin cracks up high. Double ropes useful. Abseil chains on ledge above.

FA: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen, 1979

Trad 50m
New South Wales and ACT Northwest Slopes and plains Kaputar Ningadhun
22 CC Rider

The crack through the cave roof.

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

Trad 50m
20 Dancing Fool

The crack which splits the arete just right of 'Lonely Escalator', about 10m left of cave. Initialled.

Note - could not locate the initals.

FA: Tobin Sorenson & Jonh Allen, 1979

Trad 50m
20 The Prow

Up corner exiting right onto arete at 3/4 height. Up though large bush.

Start: The corner just left of the fence.

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

Trad 50m
20 Gentle Giant

The finger crack which splits the huge face on the SE wall above "foxe" graffiti. Up right of lip of first overhang then up.

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

Trad 50m
21 Catharsis

Corner with orange bulge on North face. Fight your way through the Australis Grass being careful to not get poked in the eye. Up through bulge at 12m then up crack.

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

Trad 50m
New South Wales and ACT Southern Tablelands Wollondilly River Valley Perpendicular Rock
20 Hydra

Start: Crack about 10 metres to right of Hercules. Obvious crack/chimney for which I have no description as Keith cannot remember much about it. However, if you cannot find your way up this line you should not be here.

FA: K.Bell & B.Allen (alt leads) 1973

Trad 50m
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone National Park Main Cliff
24 Butterflies and Hurricanes
1 18
2 24

Two pitch sport route up the wall 10m right of Sacred Ground. Starts low down on the grey slab. The pitches could be linked with long runners.

  1. 32m (18) Fun jugging up slab and orange wall to comfy ledge and anchors.

  2. 32m (24) Steep and exciting climbing up the wall above. Finishes up major flake crack feature with huge runout to lower-off anchors. A #0.5 Camalot would make this runout sane.

FA: karen allen, jules anderson, chris coghill & sam berry

Sport 65m, 2
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area
18 Amoeba

The Original, Classic, Epic.

FA: Batty / Allen, 2000

Trad 330m, 14
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Pierces Pass East Side
18 Fungous Face

FA: B Allen & J Friend, 1975

Trad 66m, 4
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area
25 Hermaphrodite Hamster

Old 80's project rebolted. Line of rings up the hard blank slab

Start: Up wall right of 'Technical Stuff'

FA: K Allen & C Coghill, 2009

Unknown 20m, 6
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Medlow Bath Pole 28
25 Fierce Fin

Hard start and little wall then right on jugs through the roof.

Start: Middle of big cave.

FA: Karen Allen, 2011

Sport 12m, 8
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Farside Main Wall
21 Don't Kiss Me, Sweetie

This route is at the base of the access rope.

FFA: Karen Allen

Sport 9m, 5
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag
24 The Infiltrator

Two good pitches covering some exposed and interesting territory. All ringbolts. Rap down to base via Cave Climb and start climbing! Starts 4m left of 'Cave Climb' at left facing corner with U-bolts.

  1. 30m (24) Up short corner, traverse left and over bulge to ledge. Cool bouldery moves up face above on tiny sideway facing holds to jugs. Wander up face for a few bolts before tricky end move to ledge.

  2. 25m (23) Two wildly differing parts. Steeply through the shale band to right leading crimpy slab. After this finger torture ends thug up the reachy and very steep face above. Belay on ledge.

FA: Neil Monteith & Karen Allen, 2008

Sport 55m, 2
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Dogface Left Wall
18 Landslide Chimney

Start: At the bottom of the huge corner/chimney.

FA: Allen / Batty, 2000

Trad 100m
New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Echo Point Echo Point Walls
Echo Point Bolt Route

The Original route up 'Echo Point'.

FA: B Allen / J Ewbank, 2000

New South Wales and ACT Illawarra and Shoalhaven New Nowra - Braidwood Road Tianjara Falls Black Snake Buttress
19 Slashin Crack

Done once as a mixed gear abomination in the very distant past. Now steel rules supreme. Don't expect to get off this one alive if you don't tie a knot in the end of your rope! Close to being the longest single pitch sports route at TJF. The crack splitting the wall 50 or so meters towards the waterfall from the Mystery Mossy Slab. Which by the way isn't a mystery. Climb the wall using the crack as a supplementary hold. Top out or lower to an anchor and lower again! Remember the knot!

FA: G Hill P Allen

Sport 38m, 15
New South Wales and ACT Illawarra and Shoalhaven Wollongong Mount Keira South Face
13 School of Rock - Lead Traverser

Start on SOR - Junior (top rope). Then traverse around to top out on Prow Prowess anchors. (Make sure your rope is long enough for lowering)

FA: Chris Allen, 30 May 2013

Sport 20m, 5
10 School of Rock - Junior

A top rope can be run from either of first two the eastern rings. Scramble to ascend the crack or the slab.

FA: Lucy Allen, 31 May 2013

Top rope 8m
17 School of Rock - Senior

Scramble up the to the ledge and work around to ascend up the crack in the face.

Climb up from the 4th ring bolt from the crack and belay from the 3rd. (Don't climb up from the 3rd - there are weak jugs that will break off)

Set: 30 May 2013

FA: Chris Allen, 30 May 2013

Top rope 9m
18 School of Rock - Graduate

Start from the track in the corner (right of the arrow in the tree). Links up with School of Rock - Senior through the crack in the face. Climbing off the 4th ring from Crack. Belay from 3rd.

FA: Chris Allen, 30 May 2013

Top rope 12m
New South Wales and ACT Illawarra and Shoalhaven Wollongong Coalcliff South Powerline Lookout
22 Car Crash

#This has been fully rebolted

A nice looking orange face with at least two stainless carrots on right side of orange wall. Finishes up small left facing corner. This route starts on the ground in the jungle. There are two new u-bolts at the top. - it was pre-inspected and top-roped prior to first ascent.

FA: Ant Harris & Phil Allen, 1993

Sport 25m, 2
New South Wales and ACT Sydney Metropolitan North West The Balkans The Frontline Area Q
V5 Arms Race

Sit start on lowest jug (same as for 'L'Homme Obu'), reach the juggy break and head up and right through scoop.

Mauricio Chino

FA: Dave Allen

Boulder 6m
New South Wales and ACT Hunter Valley Watagans Monkey Face Practice Area
15 Tarzan's Grip

Hanging corner to an arete, carefully up the corner (peg missing) to the grainy arete.

FA: 10M1, David Gray, Greg Allen & Peter Graham, 1980

FFA: David Gray, 1982

Trad 15m
New South Wales and ACT Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fun Parlour
12 Shaky

The next corner right of BOOT THE PUSS. Every cliff needs a horrible climb. Up corner crack to cave, up wall to top.

FA: L. Dixon & I. Allen, 1985

Trad 8m
15 Whip It

Whip it ... Whip it GOOD! This is good. The first crack on the next wall. A hand to fist crack, with crux near the top.

FA: L. Dixon & I. Allen, 1985

Trad 8m
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Chimney Pot Gap The Breadboard
5 Stirling Moss

The grey slab visible uphill from "The Mountain Lion".

FA: Peter Allen & Kieran Sell, 1990

Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range The Fortress Area Shadow Lands Shining Wall
15 Unnamed Treby Route

Ten metres right of The Unearned Boon just right of roof. Probably undergraded in keeping with Treby traditions.

  1. 20m, (15) Up wall to overhang via thin right leaning crack. Left wall via bush to ledge.

    2) 10m, Headwall.

FA: Peter Treby & Peter Allen, 1992

Trad 30m
Victoria North West Arapiles Northern Group Echo Crag
26 Fiddler on the Roof

Very bouldery. Scramble down from above to reach this big triangular roof above 'Touchwood'.

Thin flake out the roof (#3 RP).

FA: John Allen & Tobin Sorenson, 1979

FA: Re-established after a hold snapped by Paul Hoskins., 1994

Trad 35m
Victoria North West Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Tjuringa Wall
25 R Tjuringa

One of the most outstanding routes at Arapiles. The two pitches provide two very different beasts. Pitch 1 is a runout slab ending at the roof. Pitch 2 is the roof itself, which involves powerful climbing on good holds, passing one carrot and a fixed hanger where the piton used to be. The old piton on the second pitch came out in the hands of some unsuspecting climbers and completely broke the placement when it did. Thus it was replaced with a bolt which makes it much more tame. Both grade 25 pitches are graded to take into account seriousness.

  1. 25m (25) Up the face then left and up to flake. Step right and run it out to roof (small cam in pocket). Traverse 6 metres right to rap anchor.

  2. 15m (25) Jug out roof past carrot and fixed hanger and around lip. Up wall veering right to flake then traverse steeply back left to belay in little cave.

  3. 10m (18) Through bulge and up.

FA: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen, 1979

Mixed trad 50m, 3, 2
Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area
23 Party Tricks

Face 3 metres left of the seam of "I Can't Breathe" to undercling, then up and right to finish up "I Can't Breathe".

FA: Rob Allen & Evab Bieske, 2000

Trad 15m
Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area
17 DejaVu, I Think

So-so. Second pitch is OK.

Start: Scramble across to a line about 3 metres right of The Dribble's second pitch overhang.

  1. 25m (14) Line 3 metres right of 'The Dribble' to belay on loose blocks

  2. 30m (17) Step left from ledge and up to groove bounding left side of upper wall. Onwards to scrubby ledge. Scramble off down right to rappel.

FA: Peter Treby, Kieran Loughran & Peter Allen, 1983

Trad 60m, 2
Victoria North West Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall
12 Please Be Kind

Doddle up.

Start: Start 1m L of MSaS.

FA: Allen Hope & Bill Andrews, 2000

Trad 20m
Victoria North West Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle
15 X Minuet

Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Allen, 1964

Trad 33m

Showing all 76 routes.

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