Routes in Australia by allen

Old 80's project rebolted. Line of rings up the hard blank slab 2-3m right of Technical Stuff, to DRB.

The crack which splits the arete just right of 'Lonely Escalator', about 10m left of cave. Initialled.

Note - could not locate the initals.

Super thin face climbing up the shallow V-groove. A high runner can be placed by climbing up Inquisition and stepping across as high up as your ethics let you. Kim had 7 hex nearly half way up the route on the 2nd ascent. Top rope the initial section (achieved by using The Force/levitation), then go up the sustained corner.

The crack through the cave roof.

Tough. A dyno off the ground sets the theme. Follow this up the arete past 2 bolts. Hard not to step into Pollux. Finish on Theory Ledge.

Start: Base of big obvious leftward leaning crack.

A soaring and beautiful looking curved crack. Described as one of the best routes in the State. The start is unmistakable - the immodest, arching crackline.

1. 35m (21) The line spears leftwards up to a semi-detached flake.

2. 35m (18) Glide leftwards again on excellent stone. Before the crack expires, head straight up slab to the top.

Rubbish! A choss-ridden, mank infested gardener's delight. The corner to the L of FA. Approach by climbing either of the last two routes, or rap in from the LLL belay tree.

Approach the Leaning Peak from the Short Leaning Ridge. Two cracks become obvious apart from the face. The left crack separates Leaning Peak from North Peak. Descend into the right crack and belay of tree in right crack.

1. 30m Up past block and small crack top right. Left to tree belay.

2. 20m Up easily to tree belay.

3. 70m A wandering 40m to tree, followed by a 20m pitch.

4. 50m Vertical mank bash. Tree belay. At this point, the Meadow's route traverses left.

5. (13) 25m Tree belay 6m above end of Pitch 4. Climb up face to bridge on belay tree and wall to a micro-ledge. Left of bulge and up 12m to V-crack. Tree belay.

6. 35m Weave up to overhang. Traverse from left to right to small pillar. Up pillar to tree belay.

7. 30m Wander up. Tree belay.

8. 40m Up crack between blocks or traverse to mantel up the blocks. Tree belay.

9. 20m Up wall and crack on right-hand side. This 12m wall is severely delicate. Tree belay.

10. 20m Move up left away from overhanging crack. Dicey traverse right above overhanging crack. Notable exposure up to summit.

A hernia-inducing beast, up the very thin line. RPs are essential to keep you from cratering. A bouldery start up a thin corner 2m L of LLL. A difficult mantle onto the ledge that Impulse finishes on (belay from here possible). If you are keen, motor up the corner and hand crack to the top of the pillar. Finish up LLL pitch 2!

One of Australia’s classic climbs, but only for the chosen few.

1. 27m 17 - Start below cave – the RH dot in the alcove below the FH. Up on good flakes & gear to the pillar, then bold moves above the FH (no more gear) thru the overhang & into the cave. Belay chains on left.

2. 24m 24 - Start in L facing corner, then up R onto sloping ledge 12m up (gear), then out L over bulge (more gear), then up - follow the under-clinging flake out L to trad belay.

3. 27m 22 - Continue up manky crack to top.

A great variant start to LLL. Much better moves than LLL but you still wind up in the disgusting V-groove of LLL. Start around the corner 3m R of LLL. Up the line above to join LLL at the base of the groove.

Halfway up OA, this short climb traverses R over the slab, under the block, and finishes up the arete (head L onto wall near the finish).

Grotty climbing on loose flakes makes this yet another death lead classic! Up the hollow flakes, with surprisingly ok gear to the ledge. Ascend the corner behind to the top.

Ten metres right of The Unearned Boon just right of roof. Probably undergraded in keeping with Treby traditions.

1. 20m, (15) Up wall to overhang via thin right leaning crack. Left wall via bush to ledge.

   2) 10m, Headwall.

Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor.

A bit of a ramble up to a corner which has a few OK moves then make your way to a tree and rap or continue as for A1.

Doddle up.

Start: Start 1m L of MSaS.

A very hard route to protect well on lead. Start on the cracked arete, up this for a few moves and then out onto the R face. Quiver up the face on thin holds with RPs and flared token cam placements guaranteeing your concentration! A hard move on the arete moves the route to the L face and an excellent #3 RP. From there, flail up the face to where the obvious diagonal crack line leads R to a ledge. This crack is actually quite easy but feels relatively hard due to the fact that most climbers are pumped completely senseless by then! Follow this to a ledge, then easily up. Rap as for SIL.

So-so. Second pitch is OK.

Start: Scramble across to a line about 3 metres right of The Dribble's second pitch overhang.

1. 25m (14) Line 3 metres right of 'The Dribble' to belay on loose blocks

2. 30m (17) Step left from ledge and up to groove bounding left side of upper wall. Onwards to scrubby ledge. Scramble off down right to rappel.

Absolutely brilliant climbing, although possibly one of the most sustained routes here. Brilliant bridging up the open-book corner to the flake at the top.

The original way this route was done in 1963 - but now not recommended due to rockfall risk on parties below.

1. 20m (14) - Climb Sweet Dreams pitch 5 corner for 15m then traverse right for 4m to large ledge (big loose blocks). Belay off large cams.

2. 10m (10) Overhung chossy crack above belay ledge. Be very careful not to rip anything onto parties below.

Face 3 metres left of the seam of "I Can't Breathe" to undercling, then up and right to finish up "I Can't Breathe".

A contender for the best 19 in the country! The old school off-width is the only way to go for apprentice gruntologists. All the sane people start in the corner to the R. Up this past a tricky move out of a cave at 1/3 height to a stance (crux). From here, up the beautifully sculpted line to the top. Simply magnificent climbing. Rapping on a 70m rope will get you to the middle of the scramble at the base of the climb.

One of the most outstanding routes at Arapiles. The two pitches provide two very different beasts. Pitch 1 is a runout slab ending at the roof. Pitch 2 is the roof itself, which involves powerful climbing on good holds, passing one carrot and a fixed hanger where the piton used to be. The old piton on the second pitch came out in the hands of some unsuspecting climbers and completely broke the placement when it did. Thus it was replaced with a bolt which makes it much more tame. Both grade 25 pitches are graded to take into account seriousness.

1. 25m (25) Up the face then left and up to flake. Step right and run it out to roof (small cam in pocket). Traverse 6 metres right to rap anchor.

2. 15m (25) Jug out roof past carrot and fixed hanger and around lip. Up wall veering right to flake then traverse steeply back left to belay in little cave.

3. 10m (18) Through bulge and up.

A classic one-move wonder, the face R of WC. Start off the ledge on the R. Wobble up on thin and balancy moves until a jug on the L arete comes to hand. Easily up the line past a piton (hidden from view) to a tricky little mantle move at the ledge. Easily up to Plume ledge.

Very bouldery. Scramble down from above to reach this big triangular roof above 'Touchwood'.

Thin flake out the roof (#3 RP).

A gruntologist's dream. Clang your hexes for joy and release a tribal yelp before plunging head first into this body chimney. It climbs better than it looks. A serious lead however due to some questionable rock. Take big gear to keep it sane and somewhat safe.

A nice warm up for the hard men.

Start: 10m right of 'Patient Scruff', the middle of three lines through the overhang.

1. 18m (24) Up strenuously through roof (crux), follow crackline on wall to stance.

2. 12m (-) Follow natural line to top.

Update: As of June 2017 the "magic block" is gone! Grade and description are awaiting an update. Take care with all the hanging blocks in the vicinity of the roof.

Very photogenic climbing up the only line here that has anything close to a roof! Up the initial blank corner with loads of class to a rest at the "magic block". Fire up and hand traverse R into the void! A hand to fist-sized cam at the lip keeps things sane. Spicy moves above to the top.

A classic roof problem.

Start: Marked. 9m right of 'Spook', below extreme left end of main overhangs

1. 36m (24) (crux) Tough thin crack splitting middle of roof, follow crack to belay stance.

2. 41m (-) Follow natural line to top.

Adventure climbing up a wandering line. Well worth a visit. Blast up the initial cracked arete to shallow nut then good runner (or just solo it as it's easy climbing) to a stance in a cave and a very old piton(can be backed with small nut). From here step L into the corner system and up this line with good gear and one more equally crappy piton (also can be backed with natural pro). Tree belay on left.

A fine crackline.

Start: Below two tiered roof, about 5m right of 'White Heat'.

1. 30m (23) (crux) Take corner crack directly below two tiered roof for about 8m, traverse left on horizontal crack into first crackline which splits the side of the buttress. Up crack to belay stance.

2. 40m (-) Follow natural line to top.

Classic crack climbing. Start at the finger crack as it continues to widen the whole way up the route. Don't be fooled by the wide nature of the top, although big gear is essential to protect this route (#4 and #5 BD cams won't go astray), you are able to bridge past almost all of the wide thrashing! A 70m rope will get you back to the ground from the chain around the tree.

A sustained penetration of huge overhangs.

Start: As for 'Blood on the Moon'.

1. 30m (23) crux) Up shattered wall to orange offwidth, traverse directly right on lip of overhang to arete, up arete to horizontal undercling, traverse left and up crack splitting top overhangs.

2. 37m (-) Follow natural line to top.

Not the most classy route to be found. Stop and belay at the large tree. Scramble easily off L, or rap.

Start: Below right hand end of main overhangs, left of 'The Promised Land'.

1. 40m (22) (crux) Up orange rock to right of overhanging buttress. Traverse left into dihedral up middle of buttress. Up this to roof with V-crack on left, over roof to stance.

2. 40m (-) Up line.

The furthest R arete on this pillar is a desperate solo problem. Up through a tiny roof, and then a little easier to the top.

Follow the thin crack as shown on the topo. Varied crack & face climbing.

Climb the outside of the body crack. Committing but enjoyable climbing on good edges. Better than it looks.

The prominent crack in the middle of the lower cliff, R of Something Special. A beautiful line up the leaning flake/crack. Rap off small tree on ledge above - out right.

Simply brilliant middle grade climbing. Easily the best 15 at the cliff. Start at the obvious corner behind the large tree. Up this on brilliant holds and jams to a rest at the cave. Gulp hard, plug in yet more bombproof gear and blast out of the cave to some very airy positions. Wobble and bridge up the final corner to an easy top out. Chains can be found at the tree. There is some hollow rock on this climb, but you don't need to use any of it.

Start at "Wimps in the Gym" move left at roof then straight away climb diagonally up and right past carrot to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

Absolutely brutal and unrelenting off-width climbing at its worst. Feels closer to 23. The chockstones mentioned in the Joe Lynch guide must have fallen out! Take big gear, elbow pads, grim determination and a vomit bag. You can get off this disgusting pile of crap as for BB.

The grey slab visible uphill from "The Mountain Lion".

Not as good as the Direct Finish (DDF). This is the thin crack up the face directly above Pibrock. Worth a trip if you have done the others. It packs quite a punch for such a midget of a route.

Start: At the bottom of the huge corner/chimney.

Just to the R of the previous route is this crappy little addition to the cliff. A dirty little corner that really has nothing to recommend it.

A complete sandbag at its old grade of 16. Strap on your knee pads and climb the tight orange groove R of DO. The crack flares a lot, so getting gear to stay in is quite a mission. Physically challenging climbing to a stance at 2/3 height. Careful at top, block on right is a little loose.

The climb goes up the "fairly obvious" line to the right of the main face, or 100m left of a huge triangular yellow overhang (this could be the "map of Africa" choss just right of Groseness?). It finishes just where the third cliffline peters out. Good luck! Any fixed gear would be rusted away most likely.

1. 18m Start up an awkward chimney then onto the R wall. PR up to belay. 2) 18m Scramble carefully up.

2. 18m Move easily still

3. 30m Up a short wall to scrub beneath the prominent corner overhung at the base.

4. 34m (crux) Overcome the overhang via the wall then very pleasant climbing straight up.

5. 24m More scrub, up.

6. 21m Still scrubby, up.

7. 15m Up in corner, PR

8. 38m An exposed pitch, leftwards across yellow rock to tree. Up to left BR above tree. Tree belay.

9. 5m Up scrub.

10. 9m Up in corner and right.

11. 9m Up crack on the right.

12. 21m Up Chimney of upper (3rd?) cliffline.

Whip it ... Whip it GOOD! This is good. The first crack on the next wall. A hand to fist crack, with crux near the top.

The Original, Classic, Epic.

The next corner right of BOOT THE PUSS. Every cliff needs a horrible climb. Up corner crack to cave, up wall to top.

Up the wall left of PS. The start has a little gear down low then is unprotected until you gain the crack. An alternate start that is still run out can be done via the first 3 bolts of Drongoland to the left. Continue up crack to twin cracks up high. Double ropes useful. Abseil chains on ledge above.

Hanging corner to an arete, carefully up the corner (peg missing) to the grainy arete.

1. 25m (23) Up crack starting 2m left of fig growing in corner, under steep hanging corner in the next bay right of primal scream. Climb to ledge at half height.

2. 25m (26) continue up corner through roof to stemming corner. Small cams and RPs essential

Start: Crack about 10 metres to right of Hercules. Obvious crack/chimney for which I have no description as Keith cannot remember much about it. However, if you cannot find your way up this line you should not be here.

Corner with orange bulge on North face. Fight your way through the Australis Grass being careful to not get poked in the eye. Up through bulge at 12m then up crack.

A lot scarier now that the 1st piton has fallen out. Start up EL, but step R out of the cave, and up to a stance at a bolt (Hanger is missing). Go up to the eerie piton hole (gear possible), and continue up the arete to the second piton. Finish directly up the nose.

The finger crack which splits the huge face on the SE wall above "foxe" graffiti. Up right of lip of first overhang then up.

Complete crap. The horrible blank line 3m R of MPFC actually looks a lot better than it is (which is really saying something). Climb directly up the line over numerous loose blocks, piles of dirt and the bones of the last maniac who was desperate enough to lead such utter mank.

The Original route up 'Echo Point'.

Up corner exiting right onto arete at 3/4 height. Up though large bush.

Start: The corner just left of the fence.

Crappy and dangerous. The corner found on the L side of the dark buttress to the R of DSEB. Up this and then traverse off L.

Short crack above 'Rhyolite Fruit'.

Start from the track in the corner (right of the arrow in the tree). Links up with School of Rock - Senior through the crack in the face. Climbing off the 4th ring from Crack. Belay from 3rd.

Scramble up the to the ledge and work around to ascend up the crack in the face.

Climb up from the 4th ring bolt from the crack and belay from the 3rd. (Don't climb up from the 3rd - there are weak jugs that will break off)

A top rope can be run from either of first two the eastern rings. Scramble to ascend the crack or the slab.

Start on SOR - Junior (top rope). Then traverse around to top out on Prow Prowess anchors. (Make sure your rope is long enough for lowering)

This route is at the base of the access rope.

#This has been fully rebolted

A nice looking orange face with at least two stainless carrots on right side of orange wall. Finishes up small left facing corner. This route starts on the ground in the jungle. There are two new u-bolts at the top. - it was pre-inspected and top-roped prior to first ascent.

More joy.

Start: Slightly right of Light Box #11. Up broken face, past a RB, then traverse slightly right and up to small ledge. Clip high RB and fire straight up the improbable looking wall past another RB. Traverse left and up the recess to below overhanging block. Clip final RB and jug up to chain above left. Note, this route tends to seep for some days after rain.

Done once as a mixed gear abomination in the very distant past. Now steel rules supreme. Don't expect to get off this one alive if you don't tie a knot in the end of your rope! Close to being the longest single pitch sports route at TJF. The crack splitting the wall 50 or so meters towards the waterfall from the Mystery Mossy Slab. Which by the way isn't a mystery. Climb the wall using the crack as a supplementary hold. Top out or lower to an anchor and lower again! Remember the knot!

Takes the corner direct to bolt belay.

Two good pitches covering some exposed and interesting territory. All ringbolts. Rap down to base via Cave Climb and start climbing! Starts 4m left of 'Cave Climb' at left facing corner with U-bolts.

1. 30m (24) Up short corner, traverse left and over bulge to ledge. Cool bouldery moves up face above on tiny sideway facing holds to jugs. Wander up face for a few bolts before tricky end move to ledge.

2. 25m (23) Two wildly differing parts. Steeply through the shale band to right leading crimpy slab. After this finger torture ends thug up the reachy and very steep face above. Belay on ledge.

Two pitch sport route up the wall 10m right of Sacred Ground. Starts low down on the grey slab. The pitches could be linked with long runners.

1. 32m (18) Fun jugging up slab and orange wall to comfy ledge and anchors.

2. 32m (24) Steep and exciting climbing up the wall above. Finishes up major flake crack feature with huge runout to lower-off anchors. A #0.5 Camalot would make this runout sane.

Hard start and little wall then right on jugs through the roof.

Start: Middle of big cave.

Sit start on lowest jug (same as for 'L'Homme Obu'), reach the juggy break and head up and right through scoop.

Mauricio Chino