Routes as trad in Australia

As for C for 10m then R and up arete.

Start: Start as for C.

Pull through the start of 'Luxury Item' then L along the horizontal line to the arête. Up the arête past a bolt to a ledge and double glue-in lower-off anchor.

Fiddly pro initially. Step R at 15m to find the rap anchor above 'King Rat'. Apparently the "awesome" continuation up the chossy headwall is yet to be done - knock yourself out.

Start: Start beneath the grey wall which separates 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork and Right Fork.

Climb Glory Rodent until through the crux. Traverse L to jug on arete and good medium wire above. Climb arete direct, watch out for rope drag or use doubles. Extra grade just for the extra effort required... it's not really any harder than GR.

The awesomely steep line is made easier by a few faceholds.

Start: The first steep line you get to on the L wall of KRGRF.

Another awesomely steep line.

Start: Start 4m R of GR. Clip piton at your own risk. Sharp.

Escapable but fun. Climb 'King Rat' to the thread. Reach up and R to gain big hold on the lip of the overhang. Pull straight through and climb the featured wall above to finish on the ledge. You may want to bring a few small wires for the upper orange headwall. Two U-bolt lower-off.

The rotten flake then the bulge to pull R into the flake, belay on R. Carrot has been replaced by a bolt

Start: Start R of KR.

Straightens out and significantly improves Kookenhagen. Easily up the line for a few metres then pull up left around the overlap past a bolt runner and up the line above (Kookenhagen stays lower and keeps traversing left).

Sustained face and crack with good wires.

Start: Start 3m R of K.

A "V", then a sickle. Dodgy rock and gear. Not worth a star.

Start: Start R of MW.

Fingery moves. The original crap bolts were replaced in 2003.

Start: Start R of FB, beneath the huge chockstone above the gully.

The main crack on the wall used to be very hard when it was graded 16! There are 2 odd chipped crucifixes at the base.

The blank wall right of 'Catcher' starting 3 or 4 metres right of that climb. 1 carrot and 1 FH. A hold may have broken and may be more like 27 now.

The start of this doesn't look too bad but the gully is woeful. Maybe would be better finishing up the arete on the left.

On a small grey wall 50m beyond Catcher to the R of the main gully. Up to a jug at 3m, 3m R of the block at the base of the wall. Arrange small wires, make a thin move and continue more easily.

The thin seam.

Start: Start on the right of the wall, left of little corner.

Takes a line of jugs.

Start: Start 1m left of TLL.

It is not just the name of this one that is obscure.

Start: Behind the former routes is another broken wall. This takes the subtle arete just left of the central corner.

Up middle of face.

Start: Start at the base of the pinnacle right of Two Years in a Shed in Norway.

Corner with ledge at half-height on south-east facing wall around left from 'Serious Young Lizards'.

Main face of pinnacle about 15 metres left of Serious Young Lizrds. Grade is a wild guess as none was given.

Crack 1.5 metres left of 'Serious Young Lizards'

Worth doing for the history. This climb came into existence while Kim Carrigan was attempting the first ascent of what would become Lord Of The Rings. When Kim announced that he was intending to call the climb 'Serious Young Lizards' a piece of extremely obscure rock was promptly found, climbed and given that name.

Grade is a guess as none was given. Crack 3 metres right of 'Serious Young Lizards'.

Eliminate with a bouldery start between the L edge of the wall (with the yellow mini-pinnacle) and the easy crack.

Crack 2m R of the L edge of the wall.

Line 1m R of Harpo (blinkers required).

Line 1m R of Groucho.

Crack 1.5m R of Gummo.

Cracks 2m R of Zeppo, 3m L of R edge of wall.

An obvious, the word is used loosely, corner.

The same party wrote up another climb here : Rat 9m 16 Climb the bulge 4 metres left of the corner, up the wall, and finish up the right-facing black corner. Sounds like it might be the same as 'Ratatouille'.

This climb is just above the left end of 'Skydiver' wall. Could be worth doing for the shade. After scrambling up the chimney just R of 'Purple Denotes Bruising', but before getting to 'Catcher', head up chimney/gully on the R to a yellow groove on the L wall.

Steep groove, delicate slab. Start on the L end of Skydiver Wall, just L of a nose. Had a lower-off added around 2003 (which appears to have been removed).

Climb brittle edges with minimal protection to the horizontal break (optional gear if you choose to head diagonally right from the initial jug to a shallow groove). Surmount the flake above the bulge, after which a few more moves will take you to the ledge.

Go straight up, it's hard to get the pro in.

Straight up well protected wall. Start 1m R of Even More Moves.

After some powerful moves off an undercling, a fixed hanger is soon within reach. Siddle up and rightwards (to another fixed hanger), then finish up the seam.

Face, around L side of block, wall above.

Start: Start 1m L of R.

The crack, moving R at overhang.

Start: Start just R of C-O at the obvious offwidth crack.

It is possible to climb into Retardation but you can suspend the disbelief and stay on the wall. The climbing sends you rightwards after that anyway.

Mistakenly named Austisticus Spasticus in Simey and Glen's guide. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6isXNVdguI8

Start beneath high ring bolt and follow right-trending overlaps to a diabolical crux level with the bolt. Turn your mind insane and follow the seam to its end, whereby a worrying reach out to crimps and a sidepull leads you to easier climbing above. Take small thin (0.5cm) slings to wrap around nubbins en-route and a large one for the jug further up. Make sure you don't fall off past the bolt!

Start: Start 2m R of R.

Stick clip U-bolt. Take a running jump off the end of the ledge and leap for the jug. Simultaneously, get your belayer to take in about 5 metres of slack however seems apt. Then climb the crack.

Start: Start off the R end of the ledge.

Originally supposed to stick-place a #2 hex to protect the monster jump-start. As usual there is more than one level of shade here. Originally the nut was placed and then used for aid to place a backup. Finally Mikl has put in a sensible bolt.

Start: Start as for TOR.

A classic piece of Mike Law funkness. Start left of 'Skydiver' beneath the bolt and try your best to get off the ground and reach the sanctuary of the seam above (crux). Once into the seam, continue up the obvious line (grade 23 this section) via technical face climbing and more bolts. Pull through the top bulge on slopers and finish easily.

VS to SM starting from the right past 2 FH's.

Up the corner, moving out L about halfway - this can be done higher or lower, as shown in topo. Then up face to ledge with rap anchor.

Start: Start 3m R of SM beneath appealing orange corner.

Link up of Skydiver to Sustained Metaphor. Start up Skydiver until the horizontal weakness at about 8m. Go L along this to the groove on Sustained Metaphor, and up this to the top. Great sustained climbing.

Start: Start 1.5m R of S.

1. 18m (23) Up the RH corner, then 2 bolts to double bolt belay.

2. 12m (21) L almost to arete, then up just R of arete.

Up BM to it's first bolt. Head right to another bolt, some hard moves and finally BM's anchor.

Overhanging flake on L edge of cave, then short groove.

Start: Start L of CC.

Louise's description is worth repeating in full! "Why pay a shrink to talk about your problems when you can do a new route and tell the whole world for free?"

Start: Start in the cave L of CC.

The bolts flex alarmingly and need to be replaced.

Traverse L along break to BR. Presumably you go up at some point too.

Start: Start 2m L of CC (the original contrived start was further L in the cave).

The steep thin crack and direct through the overhang.

Start: Start on the back face of the Pinnacle (near the R end of 'Skydiver' Wall, described in 'King Rat' Gully).

More like a RHV than a separate route...

Start: Start as for CC.

As for EE but span L to the jug on the prow and up the prow to finish.

Start: Start as for CC.

The arete, on the R at first then on the L, with suss rock.

Start: Start R of EE.

The face - take care with delicate rock.

Start: Start 1.5m R of R.

The next line of holds up the face.

Start: Start 1.5m R of DF.

Up to the top of the flake, R, up.

Start: Start 2m R of BC.

One of Araps' earliest routes.

Start: Start beneath the front face (the one facing Dec Crag).

1. (6) Up the chimney to large ledge on the left

2. (11) Up the crack

Follow Lizard Procrastination to the ledge below the final overhang. Head up and right on juggy wall to ledge on right arete. Step back left and up steep juggy crack to top.

Take horizontal weakness opposite 'Falsetto', then up.

Start: Start at the far left hand end of baby buttress at the back of the gully.

Climb the face left of 'Tendrils' to a short black flake and up.

Start: start left of 'Tendrils'

Start: Climb up just left of the nose of 'Baby Buttress'.

A hard start leads right to a juggy overhang, then head left and up.

Start: On the nose of 'Baby Buttress'

Wall left of Scarlet Sage, via an orange overhang and Black flake.

Climbs the tricky crack in the middle of the wall past two bulges and a small cave.

Start: Start at tiny crack in middle of wall under a cave higher up.

Up the diagonal crack two meters right of Scarlet Sage, then left and up.

Start: Start two metres right of Scarlet Sage.

Take the same starting diagonal crack as 'Wascal', but continue another two meters before going up.

Start: Start as for 'Wascal'.

An enjoyable combo with just a couple of metres of new climbing. Has been top-roped before. Up 'Cry Baby' to above its first bolt. Thin moves across L (good wires) to surmount the crux bulge on 'Pwocol Hawum'.

Up face via three bolts to anchor crux passing second bolt

solo

Bouldery start then up face to the spectators' gallery.

Start: Start opposite 'Cobwebs' and about 2m downhill.

Takes the south-west arete of Tarzan pinnacle. From the gully, follow crackline up to grey bulging arete, which is climbed to a little summit. Belay and abseil off bolts at the top of Togrul Khan.

The grey wall.

Start: Start at the top of the gully on the R side, 30m L of 'Entangled'.

Start right of Boo. Up wall to jugs. Continue up until wall blanks out, then take line of holds right across orange face to the arete. Up and right to Mesa chains.

Takes nice grey wall left of Boo. Chimney and bridge until jugs appear on the right (north) wall. Swing onto these, and direct up wall above.

Up the seam, joining the last 3m of 'Entangled'.

Start: Start 8m L of 'Entangled'.

Great second pitch for 'Astral Plane' or just approach from the hole leading to the ledge of 'Pilot Error'.

Start: Start atop 'Astral Plane'.

Bridge to gain short crack, bolt, then right and up, bolt and finish on a larger crack at top. Has had a rap anchor added.

Start: Start high in the gully on the right hand or main wall looking into the gully, at a stone step towards the back.

Follow the overhung seam up the middle of the wall with a piton, from the diagonal follow up final crack then finish as for 'Astral Plane'.

Start: On middle of right hand wall looking in.

Crack and bolt up wall right of Cobwebs. Moves have been done at about 34.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Cobwebs', at the smooth crack in the right wall at the mouth of the gully.

1. 30m (18) Up the crack to ledge then jam the slick crack and left through the roof to next ledge and then belay at ledge.

2. 10m (18) 'Steep' jamming to roof then headwall.

If he wasn't then, he certainly is by now!

Start: Start at the base of the 'Gilt Edged' buttress.

The thin dogleg crack behind dead conifer.

Start: Start on the wall below 'Kryptonite Krack'.

Short flake, orange wall, tend L then back R. Very poorly protected and not the best rock.

Start: Start 5m R of TS.

The obvious bottomless crack. Originally put up by 'building a scaffolding' of rocks to stand on and reach the first jug. Went unrepeated until 2001 when Chris Jones onsighted it without the aided start and called it 'It's A Bird It's a Plane'. Now given 27 in the latest guide, however has been climbed by a simple dyno off the deck, reducing the grade to probably around 23.

Start: Start left of 'Kryptonite Krack'.

Prance up the inverted trench, exit L.

Start: Start beneath the main diagonal crack through the steep bulge.

Previously a long standing open project that was speculated for years prior to its first ascent. Literally a 5m (hard) boulder problem.

Start: Start between KK and AF.

Short thin crack with very tough start. L along break to exciting juggy finish.

Start: Start R of S.

Finish direct.

Start: Start as for AF.

More than popular One move wonder. Start: Start at far left hand end of ledge.

Pilot Error is graded as 20 in the Mentz & Tempest Arapiles Guide Book.

Crack over roof of cave between Pilot Error and Tarzan, then chimney.

Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders.

Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.

1. 15m (13) The corner and easily up ramp.

2. 18m (13) Traverse left between overhangs, then up on jugs to top.

Pull through overhanging corner to bomber locks in corner crack and continue up ramp to pedestal and juggy wall on left.

Start: Start just right of 'Tarzan'.

Short variant to 'Togrul Khan'. Climb right arete, either from left or right past fixed sling (which was originally fencing wire!).

Start: Start just R of TK.

Companion route to Mesa. Start in chimney left of that route and follow the arete. Exit R to rap chain above Mesa.