Serpent began as a sport crag for summer climbing, and as a testing ground for those wanting to get accustomed to steeper ground. Many of the routes rely totally on bolt protection with fixed hangers, but that does not mean that we have ignored good natural gear. Therefore a selection of medium to large wires, small to medium cams and one or two larger pieces if so required for routes like 'Minotaur' won't go astray.

A 50m rope will suffice for most of the routes, but a 60m will do all the routes while also making rapping easier. About 10 quickdraws will be heaps and a couple of shoulder length slings to reduce drag. A handful of removable keyhole hangers will also be needed, for some routes still sport a carrot or two. All routes have lower-off rap stations, although some are shared.

When you reach a lower-off, please adhere to the international silent rule and place your own carabiners/quickdraws to top rope or work a route, otherwise the fixed gear is worn out very quickly and suddenly becomes a concern. When simply rappelling or lowering just the once, by all means use the fixed gear.

The trachyte at 'Serpent' is very sound and most routes here have had plenty of traffic. The friction is good and the features quite amazing, but this is rockclimbing and a loose block or two may still be encountered, so take care.

Useful Info: This guidebook is mainly comprised of infomation from Lee Cujes & Darrin Carters Qurank Guide. Some small changes and updates of new routes have been added by Matt Schimke. Topo's coming soon.

© (hotgemini)


Serpent is located in the Blackall Range, NW of Nambour. Allow two hours travel time from suburban 'Brisbane'. Driving north from 'Brisbane' on the Bruce 'Highway', take the Eumundi-Noosa Road exit. At the roundabout, take the Eumundi-Kenilworth Road and travel north alongside the main highway for a few minutes until it veers left (west). Continue along this for approximately 22km to Gheerulla State Forest (signposted). Turn left onto Sam Kelly Road (dirt) and follow this for 1.8km until you approach the park gate/entrance.

To park for climbing, stop at the large red gum just outside the park gate/entrance. Park in the small clearing on your right.

The walk should take around 25 minutes, give or take, depending on fitness level. Just inside the park entrance turn right and follow the track which crosses the stony creek-bed and leads to an intersection of a walking track and a 4WD road. Turn right along the 4WD road and follow around to the left. After a few hundred metres where a word path breaks off to the right, follow this uphill.

This track intersects with a newer, cut-in switchbacking path. If you choose to follow the switchback track to the right (longer but easier), ensure you leave it (break left) at the green hiking-trail signpost, and keep going directly up the ridge on the original foot track. Eventually you'll spy the black rock of 'Serpent Wall'.

© (hotgemini)

Where to stay

The Gheerulla camping area is about 500m through the entrance/gate, accessed via Sam Kelly Road (dirt).

© (hotgemini)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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