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Description

A compact cliff bristling with intimidating roofs, with some excellent trad climbing.

Access issues inherited from Sisters Beach

National Park so standard permits apply.

Approach

Follow the Postman's Track for about 100m, then turn L onto unmarked climber's track. After 5 minutes you will emerge at a small patch of scree. Up this and follow the path to the L for 50m reach Fly Buttress

Descent notes

There is an abseil chain about Superfly, or it is an easy walk off to the left.

History

View historical timeline

Suspect U bolt DBBs removed Jan 2018.

Routes

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Grade Route

Fist crack L of roof.

FA: Nic Deka, Neale Smith & Nick Williams

Follows thin seam between Superfly and Fly Blown.

FA: Sam Edwards

Starts up Superfly then pointlessly traverses off left instead of finishing up the excellent original, staying about 1m below the roof.

FA: Kearnes/ Haas

A variant of Superfly, follow the original then go L through roof instead of direct.

FA: Nic Deka & Neale Smith

The classic of the crag. Up the obvious crack and direct through the roof on good holds and excellent protection.

FA: Nic Deka, Neale Smith & Nick Williams

Yet another variant to Superfly. Climb to roof but this time traverse out and right.

FA: Nic Deka, Neale Smith & Nick Williams

Through the roofs to the R of Supefly, passing bolts. This route was originally led entirely on trad gear, however now sports a carrot and a FH of unknown origin.

FA: Robert Stazsewski & Tony McKenny

Next crack R, finishes just to the Left of Sunshine.

FA: Nick Williams & Tony McKenny

FFA: Nic Deka & Neale Smith, 1980

Broken wall R of main cliff.

FA: Tony McKenny & Nick Williams

The dirty looking corner is cleaner and better than it looks.

FA: Tony McKenny & Nick Williams

Crack to R of Uncle.

FA: Nick Williams & Tony McKenny

Crack to the R of corner. A good beginners climb with excellent natural pro.

FA: Nic Deka, Neale Smith & Nick Williams

Arete and wall to the R of Maggot.

FA: Neale Smith & Nick Williams

Activity

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