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Description

This is the largest and most popular buttress and contains most of Blue Lake's classics. The rock is usually dry and of excellent quality with good natural protection. Climbs are described from left to right. Route descriptions from Printed in Issue #6 (Spring 1989) of Australian ROCKCLIMBER magazine.

Ethic inherited from Blue Lake

No bolts - trad climbing only.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at the extreme left of the crag.

  1. Up the short wall onto the slab then up a second wall to the tap.

FA: A. Wood, J. Longford. 1970

Not a great route. Start at the LH end of the buttress.

  1. Take the left-hand slanting groove, just to the right of a short steep face. Climb the groove direct.

A girdle traverse of the cliff – so far only covering the first part of the cliff – awaits completion. Offers some interesting situations. Start as for Entrenched.

  1. 20m. Climb the groove as for Entrenched to a good ledge and belay.

  2. 13m. The steep wall on the right is climbed on good holds until a swing can be made onto the slab. Traverse delicately right and down 3m crossing a small corner to a good ledge.

  3. 14m. Follow ledge to stance on Pad-Nag.

  4. 14m. Up onto slab, right to peg on Turdus. Down to good ledge.

  5. 17m. Across to a narrow sloping shelf, delicately around corner to ledge.

  6. 22m. Around to Dihedral Corner, up corner for 5m then right to ledge.

  7. 20m. Up onto sloping platform. Ascend the crack using layaway holds until a lodgement can be made in a small groove. Easily to top.

FA: A. Wood, R. Eckesley, G. Horrocks. 1967

Sustained, strenuous, technically interesting. Poor pro. Start in the same recess as Entrenched, at the prominent chimney crack on the right.

  1. Follow the crack for 16m then through the overhang, continue up the thin crack.

FA: P. Aitchison, N. Anderson, R. Buick. 1968

Layback up a crack starting from the ledge at half height.

FA: G. Still. 1988

A pleasant easy route. Start at the foot of the buttress 10m right of Grappler.

  1. Ascend the corner and through the overhang. After the cave follow the groove left to a ledge then on to the top.

An easy ramble. Start in the middle of the slabs.

  1. Follow the vague line to the left, then up the easy broken slabs to a good ledge on the left of the recessed slab. For the last 20m up easily trending right.

Another ancient ramble. Start as for Pad-Nag.

  1. As for Pad-Nag but trend right onto rib then up

Good steep fun. Start at the base of the buttress below a steep wall.

  1. Easily over some slabby stuff then up the railroad-type cracks.

FA: Pete Mills

Good Pro. Start 10m right of Pad-Nag.

  1. Over some easy stuff then follow the steep central crack.

FA: M. Law-Smith, S. Carson. 1982

Well protected and steep. Start as for Zaphod Beeblebrox.

  1. The twin seams right of Z.B.

FA: Mike Law-Smith. 1987

May be a Chris Baxter route called Tynee Tips. Start at the arete left of Pete’s Corner.

  1. Follow the arete.

FA: Mike law-Smith, Anne Hastings. 1986

Easy and enjoyable. At the corner crack left of Gherkin.

  1. Over the slab to the base of the corner 5m, climb the well protected corner then easily left to the top.

FA: J. O'Halloran, P. Sands. 1966

A sting in the tail. Start 5m left of Dihedral Corner at the crack on the base of the blunt blocky arete.

  1. Up over the blocks and ledges moving right at the top to finish.

A well protected, thoroughly enjoyable classic.

  1. Up the corner.

There are chains set up at the top for rapelling (December 2017). Take care with 60 meter rope as the rapel is more than 30 meters.

This climb has almost certainly been done in the past, but no ascent information could be found. Hence it was scrubbed, climbed and 'named'. Start at the right diagonal crack/seam just left of mindbender - not a great place for a fall for the leader or second. Follow this towards dihedral corner then straight up, right next to dihedral but on the crack on the main face. An alternate finish can be climbed by stepping 2m right about 9m before the top.

FA: Mark Feeney & Soren Netz, 15 Mar 2016

An impressive line with great pro and even better moves. The diagonal crack 5m right of Dihedral Corner.

  1. Through the roof and up the crack. Move a step left at the half height ledge, then up and back to the crack and on to the top.

FA: D. Fletcher, R. Lansdowne. 1972

A direct start to Mindbender was claimed by C. Baxter and F. Gilfedder at grade 16.

Another classic. Start 2m right of Mindbender.

  1. Up to the triangular flake then follow the cracks keeping left of the small arete. Then follow the obvious groove from the left of the ledge.

FA: D. Hain, C. Larque. 1976

An exciting overhang. Start in the corner between Mad Dogs and The Exorcist.

  1. Up the slab to the corner, then to the roof. Left across to the wall, up to the crack. Up again and across to a ledge, then up and finish as for Mad Dogs.

FA: R. McGregor, S. Anderson, M. Dunstan. 1977

Start between Dihedral Corner and Reprieve at the right of the slab in the corner below the block overhang.

  1. Up the wall to below the second overhang, through this then straight up the

FA: Chris Larque & Richard Curtis

An excellent middle grade classic. Strong line and good pro. Start at the left-slanting crack 20m right of Dihedral Corner.

  1. Up the slab for a few metres to join the crack then follow it to the top.

FA: J. O'Halloran, G. Highkin. 1956

Start at the protruding corner formed by the right wall of Reprieve and the left wall of Necromancer. The route crosses Necromancer and Clog Dance at half height.

  1. 20m. Bouldery moves (crux) gain the short slab leading to the obvious rightwards crack-line. Follow this and some wall moves to a large belay ledge on Necromancer.

  2. 5m. A short hand traverse breaks horizontally across the steep wall right of Necromancer to gain an obvious belay ledge as for Clog Dance.

  3. 25m. Step rightwards around the corner and ascend the steep wall and arete (crux), finishing up the easier slabs above.

FA: P. Daniels, J. Wood, T. Chapman. 1982

A vaguely distinct addition.

Start up Iddle Man's Pleasure to the big ledge on Necromancer at 10m. Step left and up the small arete and face, then up Necromancer to finish.

FA: Oliver Story & Marcin Pius, 25 Feb 2012

Another good mid-grade route. Start 5m right of Reprieve at an obvious corner.

  1. Up through the corner to a good ledge then follow the left slanting crack through to the two overhangs. May be split into two pitches.

FA: Dick Curtis, Chris Larque. 1974

There is some confusion as to whether this is Halcyon Days as claimed by Baxter, Gaynor and Penna in 1978. Whoever did it, it's a good route. Start 5m to the right of Necromancer below the wall with horizontal stripes.

  1. Follow a crack-line up the nose of the buttress before veering left well around the buttress to finish up the obvious crack-line splitting a short steep wall (and easier groove above) paralleling Necromancer. buttress to finish up the obvious crack-line splitting a short steep wall (and easier groove above) paralleling Necromancer.

FA: Richard Curtis & Damien Jones, 1974

Start 5m to the right of Clog Dance.

  1. Up the arete then swing around to a ledge on the left. Up the right hand end of the ledge to a short hand jam crack. Move right to the obvious cracks then up the ramp to the top.

FA: P. Mills, J. Eiseman. 1977

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May have been freed, but who knows? Start at the right corner of the buttress at a large corner leading to an overhang.

  1. Up the corner through two overhangs then up a crack to a small ledge at 20m. Easy crack to the top.

FA: W. Williams, M. McPhail. 1971

May be a free version of a 1969 route called Opus Dei 14M3. Best split into two to avoid rope drag. Start a few metres right of Swing.

  1. Up the crack to a pedestal and belay. Follow a small crack to a horizontal break, then around arete to the right. Follow the groove and flakey crack to top.

FA: C. Larque, D. Hain. 1976

Loose crack climbing. Start in Glissade Gully below a section of broken rock jutting out from the cliff.

  1. Move right over broken rock to belay on a ledge at 20m. Climb either of the two steep cracks behind the ledge.

FA: Left crack: J. O'Halloran, P. Sands. 1966

FA: Right crack: A. Wood. 1967

Loose, dirty and scary. Start high up in Glissade Gully at a small ledge.

  1. Up a vague overhanging line for a few metres then a wall to finish.

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck. 1989

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