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This is the middle buttress bounded on the left by Glissade Gully and on the right by Stag Gully. Low down on the wall facing Glissade Gully are a few obvious lines. The left-leaning offwidth has been climbed at grade 22 – details have not been forthcoming but it is presumed that John Fantini made the first ascent. Peter Mills has done a route to the right of the above route somewhere (I think it's All Purpose Monkey 22) and Kim Carrigan has done a climb up one of the lines to the right also. Mike Law-Smith and Paul Daniels added a two-pitch route Golden Razor 22, which starts through a steep wall at the foot of the buttress and blasts straight up. Sorry I can't give more details, but what you ain't got you can't give. The routes I have got descriptions for are described left to right starting in Glissade Gully.

Ethic inherited from Blue Lake

No bolts - trad climbing only.


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An alpine ramble taking the left-slanting line overlookinq Glissade Gully. Start below the broken rocks to the left of the steep smooth section.

  1. The general line is obvious, though variants can be taken. May be split into two to avoid rope drag.

FA: A. Wood, P. Aitchison, G. Still. 1962

FA: P. Aitchison, A. Wood & G. Still. 1962

A pleasant long route. Start as for Warm Up.

  1. Up the short wall then left across the slab to a good ledge.

  2. Follow diagonal crack up wall then easier cracks to the top.

FA: P. Aitchison, N. Anderson. 1968

Varied and interesting climbing. Start at the short steep wall a little way up the chimney/gully.

  1. 32m. Up walls, across slab into corner. Traverse right then up onto another slab. Follow up slab and belay on a large spike in the corner.

  2. 33m. Up the crack for a few metres then left across slab into a corner and on to the top.

FA: A. Woods, P. Aitchison, G. Still. 1967

A rather obvious line. May be wet and loose. Start at the foot of the chimney.

  1. Follow the obvious fissure, best to belay somewhere along the way.

FA: P. Aitchison, A. Wood, l. Raine. 1968

Apparently not as good as it looks. Start below a ramp on the right-hand side of the gully under Chockstone Chimney.

  1. 22m. Follow the ramp to a ledge and along this to belay on The Slab.

  2. 38m. Climb the crack above the belay and continue up the easy corner for 20m then right and up easy cracks to finish.

FA: A. Wood. 1968

A good long easy route. Start at the longest point of the slab. Can be split into two or three pitches.

  1. Up slab and right around overhang and left to ledge.

  2. Above ledge, move right along flake to the slab, follow cracks to another ledge. Up corner to a ledge then left to another corner and up. Numerous variations have been done.

More of an access route than anything else. Useful as an easy descent route.

The exact location in relation to other climbs is vague, but can be found once you get to the cliff. Start at the twin thin seams (train tracks) right of a dark leaning dirty fused corner.

  1. 40m. Climb the twin thin seam-cracks to a sloping ledge.

  2. 5m. Easily up.

FA: Luke Trihey, Rob Topser, 1982


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