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The third of the major buttresses, bounded on the left by Stag Gully and on the right be the Amphitheatre. Has a couple of well worthwhile routes. The large grassy ledge at two-thirds height is called The Terrace

Ethic inherited from Blue Lake

No bolts - trad climbing only.


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A sustained finger crack. Start 2/3 way up Stag Gully beneath an overhanging arete on the right.

  1. Up an easy slab to beneath the obvious crack, through the wide crack then finger jam and layaway upwards. Alternatively start as for Short Slab then up the crack.

FA: Tony Barton, Mike Pick, Craig Kentwell. 1988

FA: Tony Barten, Mike Peck & Craig Kentwell, 1988

Not really a climb but rather an alternative to Stag Gully. Follows the line on the right of Stag Gully, up a corner formed by the slab to the left of Blue Lake Crack.

Up the finger crack left of Blue Lake Crack. This fizzles out at half height. Take your pick of lines to the top.

FA: Peter Mills, 1983

A classic line, but doesn't see a lot of sun, so is often wet. Start in Stag Gully where the left wall of the buttress joins the steep slab.

  1. Follow the obvious crack line. Can be split at a couple of ledges, one at about 15m and one at 30m.

FA: A. Wood, P. Aitchison. 1968

Quite good climbing with a few jams, jugs and some stemming. Just pick a day when the moss is dry. Start just right of Blue Lake Crack up the wide-looking fissure. Once you reach the ledge at 20m, step around the corner to the right and scramble up ledges and grass onto The Terrace.

FA: Peter Aitchison & Chris Burnes, 1968

An excellent middle grade route. Start at the flake line low in the gully.

  1. 20m (17) Excellent hand jams and flaky jugs, a few of them rattling. Fun climbing.

  2. 20m (10) A doddle traverse right and down, up a ramp and scramble up to The Terrace.

FA: M. McPhail, W. Williams, P. Giles. 1972

There is a short curving line down right of Trojan War, it has been climbed at grade 22, further details unknown.

Not a lot to recommend it. Start below a wall at the base of the chimney on the nose of the buttress.

  1. Up the wall then follow the wide crack/chimney to the top.

FA: A. Sargent, R. Eckesley. 1967

Start 7m right of Fluey.

  1. Follow cracks to a ledge then right. Down and to the left to a ramp. Move to a short chimney then to the sloping shelf. Follow the groove leftward then up.

FA: A. Wood, I. Raine. 1968

Start at the extreme right-hand end of Grey Buttress below a large detached flake in the gully.

  1. Up the right side of the flake, around bulge, then up a groove to the top.

FA: P. Aitchison, N. Anderson. 1968


Check out what is happening in Grey Buttress.