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Caramel Slice Buttress

14

Seasonality

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Description

6 good sport climbs and assorted trad

Access issues inherited from Tasmania

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Approach

Park at the last u bend before the car park at the main south sister area, follow the thin track towards the obvious rocky outcrop, climbs start at the first face then follow around the north of the crag.

Ethic inherited from Tasmania

  • The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted​

  • Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

  • Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

  • For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday

https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Just before the main crag is a small face. Climb this.

FA: Ashley Mason, Norm Selby July 2003 & Norm Selby, 2003

The first sport route you see, on the part of the buttress facing the ocean. Nice climbing up a sharp layback flake to DBB. Rock is a bit suspect and rock around last U bolt has half broken away.

FA: A Mason & N Hancock, 2011

This short route, on the pillar below LS, packs a real punch. Slap and span your way up the opposing aretes. Take care clipping. DBB.

FA: N Hancock & A Mason, 2011

An excellect route, up the sustained off vertical arete at the left side of the main north facing buttress. DBB.

FA: N. Selby & A.Mason, 2003

Start as for Science Circus but head up left across the blank face to finish up hand crack. Poorly protected. Possible on top rope from Turn the Page anchors.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz & Bob MacMahon, 1984

Good pro, fiddly and a sparse but adequate. One carrot on the slab.

FA: Ashley Mason, 1996

Follows vague arete on right side of main buttress. Improves with height. DBB.

FA: N.Selby & A.Mason, 2003

A variant of AM27, up a shallow bridging corner right of that route.

FA: N.Selby & A.Mason, 2003

FA: N.Hancock

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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Wed 19 Apr
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