This steep cave offers shady, powerful sport climbing on the best quality sandstone in Sydney.
Known to locals as Devil's Dropoff and to climbers as The Junkyard Cave, this recently developed sport climbing cave offers amazingly hard solid sandstone (reminiscent of the Grampians) varying from 10 - 35m high with potential for some really hard routes in close proximity to Sydney. Watch you rope length on lower off of some of these routes as you lower off into space. Crag stay dry in light rain, but can seep after extended period of rain, ie 3 - 4 days
Make sure not to leave anything of value in your car as the parking is a bit suss. No break ins have been recorded yet despite many visits but best to be cautious. Don't leave quickdraws or gear stashed at the crag - the locals will steal it or throw it randomly into the bush!!!.
For The Junkyard cave jump the initial gate take the first R after 100m, then an immediate L at the fork. In a 100m go left on a vague track and follow the rutted track down the hill to a lookout at the top of the crack with a couple of car wrecks. Go R facing out down the gully/track and then back L to the base of the caves.
Bolt, bolt and more ring bolts.
Discovered by Matt Brooks in winter 2012 in a random search for some bouldering and after a tip off from the old Sydney Surf and Sandstone guide.
First time here?
theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a questionAuthor(s): Mike Forward and Peter Balint
Date: 2023
With 2065 bouldering problems ranging from V0-V15 across 57 areas nestled around Sydney, the all new Sydney Bouldering Guide will keep you occupied for years to come. Just because we live in Sydney we'll try not to be biased but honestly this city has some amazing bouldering and usually not more than a few minutes off the road or some even near parks and train stations. There's no need to camp out and trek for hours to get to world class problems, they're right on your door step.
Authors Mike Forward and Peter Balint spent over 7 years putting this guide together and is the first new bouldering guide for Sydney in over 20 years. It's over 350 colour pages including 600+ colour photo tops, crag tops, amazing images and more.
Author(s): Neil Monteith & Simon Carter
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9780645299908
Featuring 1142 climbing routes located at 24 of the best crags in the Sydney area, this A5 size guide book is super user friendly with easy to use colour cliff topos and access maps. Covers sport and trad climbing at a variety of grades, something for everyone.
19 | ★ Grand Theft Auto | ||
24 | ★★★ The Junkyard Dog | ||
26 | ★★★ Junkyard Dog Extension | ||
28 | ★★★ Battle Cat |
Jason Lammers on ★★ Communal Spoon 24 - The FA
Ben Jenga on ★★★ Bogan Direct 26 - Bogan Direct.jpg
Matt Madin on ★★★ Junkyard Dog Extension 26 - Hanging Around.jpg
Matt Brooks on ★★ Tracksuit Time Warp 23 - IMG_2215.jpg
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