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Wedderburn Cave

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 8
18
BLDV

Seasonality

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Description

Just above the bank of Georges River, The Wedderburn Cave boasts some of the longest and best roof climbs in the Sydney area. Most of the bouldering is steep technical roof climbing with exciting top outs and is not a recommend area for people relatively new to climbing. The crag gets full sun from autumn to spring from about 11am-3pm and stays dry in wet weather, however all the top outs will be wet until the sun comes out.

Access issues

Please keep noise to a minimum when walking in and out of the Cave. Stick to the path, staying away from any properties and be friendly to any locals who might be curious. Keep the cave Clean and Tidy. Please do your part in maintaining hassle free access and enjoyment for all.

Approach

https://goo.gl/maps/NHQZ1JgZxLieyNE88

1.2km after the bridge where the road straightens out, park on the left side of Wedderburn Rd just before property number 253, but not too close to their driveway (50 metres minimum!).

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1l_69hOi4I-olIh0-mKZYATgSmpzUiaU5&usp=sharing

Across the road on the other side you will see a white X on a tree. Enter this here and follow the blue arrow track markers all the way. Weaving through the trees for about about 80m onto a ridgeline. Follow this down and take a sharp right at Cairn. Continue to follow to follow this trail under the top cliffline until you get to a big tree with a rope. Enjoy

Routes

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Grade Route

Furthest Line on the left of the cave away from all the rest. Sit start matched on the round hold about a meter and a half towards the back of the cave. Make some burly moves directly out the cave to gain a hug jug before mantling the face.

Beta: https://youtu.be/vLclslVflJ4

FA: Byron Glover, 11 Sep 2011

Stand start in the crack corner near the end of Anger Management. Right hand on the shelf, left hand at the bottom of the crack below it. Move up into the undercling crack and traverse up and left until an easy topout around the corner.

FA: Peter Jeavons, 3 Jan

Up Tiptoe to the jug, then back out around the bulge and across into the last jugs of the Anger Management topout. Minor dabbing on the tree is not an issue but shouldn’t aid the climber. Stay safe.

FA: Peter Jeavons, 9 Jan

Start about 2 Meters right of "Baby Bonus" heading directly out towards the lip of the cave.

Sit start matched on a large jug at the far right end of the cave. Traverse about a meter left on some crimps to meet the Sloper Rail line running along the roof. Follow this to the crack and all the way out the cave traversing right along the face before a scary top out.

Beta: https://youtu.be/1wnGgYHuh3o

https://vimeo.com/240616244

FA: Byron Glover, 23 Sep 2011

Sit start as for Anger Management, following the right side of holds leading to a big move to a crimpy blob/shield like feature and then a good jug rest. Connect back into "Anger Management" following its sloppy crack line, turning about a meter before the crack opening. Then head directly out towards the front of the cave via a large jug and some sharp underlings. Top out as for "Anger Management". Beta: https://youtu.be/QGCqCABdM_s

https://vimeo.com/173987076

FA: Byron Glover, 3 Oct 2011

Start and climb as for Anger Management, take the Persistence exit before the crack. Spicy finish and hard for the grade.

Beta: https://vimeo.com/139846153 @13.25

FA: Roman Hofmann, 12 Jul 2017

Start as for Persistence, climb this to finish out the crack as for Anger Management.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 26 Apr 2017

Start at the big Hueco at the back right hand side of the cave. Climb diagonally left joining Persistence after about 12+ moves, finishing as per this. Long and pumpy!

Beta: https://vimeo.com/176729655

FA: Roman Hofmann, 25 Jul 2017

Start as From Dust Till Dawn, head through Persistence and finish as per roof crack of Anger Management. Another obvious fun classic!

Beta: https://www.instagram.com/tv/B6Jgr-Lp624/

FA: Roman Hofmann, 23 Aug 2019

Sart as for 'From Dust Till Dawn, head back to the start of Anger Management as climb this all the way. Adds a fair bit more decent climbing.

Beta: https://www.instagram.com/tv/B71otr4JrjP/

FA: Roman Hofmann, 20 Sep 2019

Sit-Start at the Letterbox Slot on the right hand entrance of the cave just before the end of Rodeo Clown. Reverse Rodeo Clown, into Persistence and finishing as for Anger Management. A fair bit of climbing involved.

Beta: https://www.instagram.com/tv/B89i2GSDwyh/

FA: Roman Hofmann, 25 Sep 2019

Start as for "Persistence", following the right side of holds approximately 2 meters. Just after the deep two finger pocket climb towards the big Hueco on the lower right side of the cave. Climb the far right side of the cave to finish on the start rail of "Major Lightweight".

FA: Byron Glover, 18 Sep 2011

Start as for Persistence climbing this for about 2m before breaking off via an obvious perfect deep 2 finger pocket heading straight out to the cave entrance via some good holds. Then make a huge span move between 2 good holds heading right. Release the span via the Rodeo move and finish matched on the starting rail of Major Lightweight on the outside of the cave. Beta: https://www.instagram.com/p/BWvyqvUg2T0/?taken-by=romanwh0

FA: Roman Hofmann, 17 Jul 2017

Start on the two incut edges to the right of the Persistence ledge. Up and right to escape just left of Major Lightweight. Careful of the hollow edge and thin flake at the halfway point.

FA: Peter Jeavons, 17 May

Start matched on the large block. Make a couple of huge moves to a pocket, then big span out left to crimp side pull, head straight up the face before a scary mantle to top out. Powerful and big moves. Beta: https://www.facebook.com/thomas.farrell.1213/videos/10150359022325990/

https://www.instagram.com/p/BXJl8ySgMh4/

https://www.instagram.com/p/B1LVDKGjqzm/

FA: Thomas Farrell, 12 Sep 2011

Start on the right of Major Lightweight on a left hand side pull and right hand edge. Big move to the pocked with the left hand, right hand crimp intermediate then to the gnarly 2 finger pocket, hand foot match the left and hold tight to pull over the bulge to small edge via sloper. Top out via slopers and edges. Gymnastic and Powerful.

Beta: https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/the-great-houdini-v11-fa/607189

FA: Roman Hofmann, 25 Jul 2018

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