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Bourbon Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 15mins
  • Photos: 8
  • Ascents: 599
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Seasonality

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Description

High concentration of compact quality sport routes on lovely ripply orange rock. Love the Dams Cliffs? You'll also like this! The cliff is tucked away in a scenic and shady bend of the Georges River with great swimming right below the cliff. All routes are well equipped with ringbolts and lower-offs. Stickclipping the first bolt is advised on all routes. The cliff faces south west, so gets late afternoon sun (around 4pm in summer). A faint track leads down to the swimming from below the route Makers Mark.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Drive to 79 Old Kent Rd, Kentlyn NSW (-34.074459, 150.860498). Park just past this on bush side of road next to silver fence. Walk around left end of fence (brick cairn), then follow it back right to overgrown fireroad heading downhill for 50m to gully, cross it and continue along vague overgrown road with large fence and Bubbas house on the the right for another 50m until better defined fireroad heads down into the bush on the left. Follow this downhill for a few hundred metres, ignoring minor side tracks, until a large dirtbike jump appears on the left. Walk past this and down to major intersection with yellow street sign. Walk right along fireroad for 20m and look for rock cairns and blue tape markers that show the start of the climbers track (-34.077626, 150.858130). Follow cairns and blue tape along flat ground then steeply down rocky hillside to crag (-34.077876, 150.855652). It is right above the large swimming hole.

Descent notes

All routes have lower-offs. You can also walk easily to the top of the cliff to setup topropes off large trees.

History

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Discovered by Monty & Matt on yet another kayak trip. An old telegraph pole, small cemented rock pool and various bits of ironmongery below the crag are evidence or previous human occupation in decades past. The routes were all bolted and climbed by Neil & Jeff Crass over a few busy weeks of unemployment and retirement.

Routes

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Grade Route

Worst route at the crag. Overhung little prow on far right of cliff. Scramble onto ledge, then swing up undercut start. Anchor bolts are a tricky clip.

FA: Monty Curtis, 20 Sep 2015

Best place to warm up. Tricky mantle to start then up via blobs and horizontal jugs to anchors under rooflet. Take care with the big undercling at the 2nd bolt.

FA: Jeff Crass & Neil Monteith, 30 Jan 2015

Tricky start then up the Black streak.

Set by Jason Lammers

FA: Jason Lammers & Wade Stewart, 19 Dec 2015

Crag classic. 2nd of the major orange streaks starting in front of a small multi-trunked tree. Easy start then long move off sidepull to gain rail. Up and left on crimps then better holds but pumpy moves up and back right through rooflet at top.

FA: @nmonteith, 18 Jan 2015

The most sustained route at the crag. Starts just right of large grass-tree growing against the cliff base, in the middle of the cliff. Fantastic orange rock with a tough move at the fourth bolt. Hands on top of the cliff for the full tick.

FA: @nmonteith, 19 Jan 2015

Left of Woodstock. Sustained pumpy slopes on sweet stone. Up there with the best at the crag if it stays clean.

FA: Jason Lammers, 24 Oct 2015

Left trending line with hard thin crux. Finishes back right with rad little roof flake. 4th bolt is hard to clip until it's at your chest.

FA: @nmonteith, 19 Jan 2015

Easy start for a few bolts then pinchy underclings through white wall to rooflet. Powerful undercling through this and finish rightwards over final rooflet with victory jugs just above the anchor bolts.

FA: @nmonteith, 30 Jan 2015

More great rock and steep climbing! Bouldery wall to start then reachy jugs and out past nest to steep exciting finish and rap chain. The 'official' finish hold is just right of the bolt on the rap chain. The large pigeon (?) nest near the top of this route is amazingly constructed so please don't touch it and if you see any sort of bird present bail off immediately.

FA: Monty Curtis, Jeff Crass & Jo the American, 19 Jan 2015

Tricky start then into the mini corner for a metre. Out right and up left side of the scoop, finishing at anchors just left of amazing birds nest (take care not to touch the nest).

FA: Monty Curtis & Jason Lammers, 24 Oct 2015

Steep! And one of the best routes at the crag. Climbs the right edge of the cave, starting a few metres right of gumtree growing against cliff on left side of crag. Bouldery start to gain shelf then up and right through steepness. Stay right of last bolt for maximum fun, quality and pump! Climbing right and past the lower-off anchors to the top of the cliff is grade 22.

FA: @nmonteith, 18 Jan 2015

A bit rough. Starts just right of tree growing against cliff. Long move to start then easily to ledge. Swing through steepness and up into jug encrusted cave. Finish right to clip single chain lower-off.

FA: Monty Curtis, 30 Jan 2015

Far left route, starting on left side of tree growing against cliff. Juggy wall to ledge, clip high bolt, then biiiiig reach through bulge to jugs. Finish up flake and bouldery square arete to ledge and lower-off.

FA: Monty Curtis & Jeff Crass, 30 Jan 2015

The next routes are in the little cave 5m to the left, starting on a higher ledge.

Short & sharp with a few interesting moves. Grade is up for debate. Take care at second bolt.

Set by Viona Young & Wade Stewart, 3 Nov 2015

FA: Viona Young, 27 May 2019

Orange stripe in the middle of the cave. Finish involves spicy finish with two hefty hucks between huge jugs to finish at mega jug just left of the anchor bolts right at the top o the cliff. At the 2nd bolt is a fragile but vital flake hold. Please take care with this, and don't stomp your foot onto it.

FFA: Monty Curtis, 6 Mar 2016

Featured left facing flake in the middle of the cave. At last bolt (shared with Jose Cuervo) undercling left powerfully then shared last dyno move.

Set 2015

FFA: @nmonteith, 6 Mar 2016

Nice rock and moves up until the last move which is big. Dyno or static, that's the question? If you're tall it's probably 18. If you're short maybe 24? Short and sweet. Be careful cleaning due to the swing. I may add a lower off biner soon.

Set by Wade Stewart & Viona Young, 3 Nov 2015

FFA: Wade Stewart, 9 Nov 2015

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