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Access issues inherited from Statham's Quarry

The gravel road into the quarry runs off Ridge Hill Road and has a combination-locked gate (normally locked), the code to which can be obtained from the Department of Parks and Wildlife on 9290 6100. The quarry is also easily accessible on foot after parking on the closest corner when driving down the Zig Zag road. Don't leave valuables in the car.

Routes

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Grade Route

Stick clip first bolt, climb spike hanging out of ground, and gain wall and top on loose rock.

Start 2m left of Real Life Ambition up a series of ledges and a hard crux move. Rap off chains at top.

A Perth test piece at the grade. Climb the series of corner flakes to some glorious final moves. Hangers required.

Start as No Ordinary Determination, but traverse left and go up arete to reach anchors.

Overhung line 5m right of Real Life Ambition. Hangers required for carrot.

18/1/15: 1m section of rock, and lots of loose 20cm blocks behind it, came off where the slab meets the face above. This missing section may have jeopardized the integrity of the face above. http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/stathams-rock-fall-nod/

Follow the corner 2m right of NOD up and through the roof to DBB

Start up large jugs on to ledge and traverse right to bulge. Find bolt (hard to spot around corner). Difficult climbs leads u\you up and left on slab to anchor.

Much harder than 26. Apparently holds have broken off. Probably harder than 28, possibly much harder...

Excellent climb with good bouldery movements. Use a biner on first fixed hanger to limit fall, and delicately climb with nervous feet to some good holds. Continue up to anchors

Don't be fooled by the grade. This would make an excellent onsight. Smear like hell to second bolt and continue up big holds in flake and left to anchors.

2nd bolt can be tricky to clip if you are short. A crucial hold has been lost: http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/stathams-incident/ making this climb even harder. Anchors on top allow one to rap down to the climb's ancors and establish a top rope.

FA: N. Gledhill, 2007

Thin climbing up grey line. Technical from start to finish. Proper classic!

FA: Roark Muhlen-Schultze, 1990

Start 2m right of Chips 'n' Dips at junction of grey and orange wall. Strenuous climbing up overhang

Stasrt 2m right of Bastchain Puller. Good rests after every move but still not soft for the grade. Finishes at anchor for Hammer and Tongs.

Climb up flake system to where it blanks out. Big moves get you to a slopey ledge. Strenuous, delicate moves up sloping blocks, followed by a difficult mantel get you to the anchors where you can finally relax.

Up as for Hammer & Tongs, but where flake finishes, move right onto small holds and follow line of FH.

FFA: K. Swain & N. Gledhill, 2010

Two possible starts – up ‘Short Circuit’ to the 4th bolt, then step left on steep juggy wall and follow bolts up through thin, left tending crack on overhanging face (crux). Join with and finish up the last two bolts and lower-off of ‘Scoot Scoot Bandicoot’. Alternatively start up ‘Shorter Circuit’ and cross over ‘Short Circuit’ at bolt 4, 5 or 6!

FA: J. Hollingworth, 2016

Start as for SC, but then deviate from the original line to the left. Many jugs, couple of cruxes.

FA: R. Weiter, 2011

This is an X-rated climb following the weakness diagonally left. The pro is bad at best

A harder alternate start to ‘Short Circuit Direct’ starting 4m further right. Go up the weakness in the detached mega flake. Move left, then up the thin flakey crack until it intersects with the arete to clip the 5th bolt of ‘Short Circuit Direct’.

FA: J. Hollingworth & N. Mertens, 2014

Probably unclimbable these days.

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