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The Quarry Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 5-10mins
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 61
  • Aka: Main Face

Seasonality

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Description

A great sport cliff close to town that offers short, steep and pumpy sandstone routes, equipped with natural and bolt protection. Despite its namesake, the cliff is a natural one, and not the result of quarrying. The sun comes early to this cliff (as early as 10am) so unless you like early starts this one should be left for the winter months. Most routes are graded between 18 & 24, offering a good pump for competent climbers.

Approach

Park at the gate to the quarry . The cliff is up on the right.

History

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Many routes on the main 'quarry wall' were bolted (and probably climbed) by Roark Muhlen-Shultz years ago, however the climbs were not recorded until around 1995, so ascents from this time are likely to be First Recorded Ascents only.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

L most climb on wall. Not really worth the effort. One BR.

FA: Kieran Culhane, 1995

Originally protected by 4 ugly D-Shackles; now chopped, the line can be easily protected. Start 5m right of SM on the steep straight crack behind a tree. Up 2m to a ledge then up steeply past technical jamming, unexpected holds can be found when the going gets really tough. Yes it really is a 21 and no more clues than that. SSB, back it up! (Edit July 2014: No SBB, trad anchor or topout.)

FA: Kieran Culhane, 1995

Can be top roped from DBB. Left trending crack, layback to the awkward mantle onto the ledge, then continue on easier ground to a second left trending crack.

FA: Kieran Culhane, Jo Isgro & Nick Isgro, 1995

Variant start (13) avoid corner, and ascends ramp to the R, to join the line.

FA: Kieran Culhane, Jo Isgro & Nick Isgro, 1995

Start as for WTFIA up the left trending crack to good protection and awkward moves up onto the ledge. Move up the ramp to the left below the shield, then as per Crazy Sexy Cool over the bulge via suss flake and borderline protection trending slightly right to the top

Set by unknown

FA: unknown

FFA: Simon Duke, 26 Mar 2017

Ends at FHB. Good crack climbing. Ramp 5m R of WFA to L leading diagonal crack (next crack R of WFA).

FA: Kieran Culhane, Jo Isgro & Nick Isgro, 1995

As for OSOD, but break left at third bolt and follow very thin diagonal seam to finish at anchor for HB

FA: Leigh, Nov 2018

Start as for HB, then step left at the first FH, then then up past 2 more FH's, veering right to finish. Lower off from same BR's as Superstring

Link up. Up first 2 bolts of S, traverse L on good edges just under small rooflet and finish as for OtSoD

Start 3m L of First Temptation. Up wall BR, FH, then R along diagonal rooflet 2FH, DBB.

FA: Goshen Watts, 1996

Wonderfully sustained. Start at two shallow cracks in the center of the wall, with a BR at arms stretch. Good climbing past 3 FH to finish up large crack. DBB

FA: Kieran Culhane, 1995

Up the L tending crack R of FT. Up to bolt, then smear like a demon through the crux. Continue up line to DBB.

FA: Damian Auton & Kieran Culhane, 1995

Ryan Gaskon Open Project. Terribly thin line snuck between the classics. Start on horizontal break, clip bolt then boulder through tiny crimps and sidepulls, then dyno right to gain ledge. Continue easily up thin diagonal seam past 2nd break to top

Neil had balls - I like that! ;-) Offwidth leading to diagonal ramp about 5m R of LFS. DBB.

FA: Neil Melan, 1996

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