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One Lost Chossy Boi

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 2 mins
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 17

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Description

Sadly dislocated from the adjacent boulder fields of the adjoining private property, Craigieburn Park and the nearby Stonehenge, this monolithic granite slug is typical of every other boulder strewn around the countryside. With few known climbers residing in Glen Innes, this boulder is more likely to be visited by kids looking to squeeze in some sweet bike jumps and a cheeky goon bag after school.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

On arrival to the scenic Celtic Country , access the site from the adjoining streets. Follow either Lambeth St South or Heron St West along the unsealed track to the intersection of the gazetted roads.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Stand start 1m left of Not Tommy's Rock on slabby feet. Don't touch the boulder to the left. Trend left to gain a delicious slopey jug, pull out the top and bask in the awesome view of the epic private land boulders next door.

FA: Aidan..., 14 Feb

Stand start on crimps right of JVB's. Don't touch the boulder to the right. Send the clean line trending slightly right up the large bulge on delicate slabby feet. Top out at the highest point.

FA: Aidan..., 14 Feb

This choss magnet will probably be saturated in lichen and moss, don't fight mother nature, just embrace it. There is a distinct lack of good feet after the crux which is getting established on the wall to start with. A good ol' fashioned pistol squat should do the trick though.

FA: Aidan..., 18 Feb

Stand start on with feet on fallen flake in grass matched on good crimps. Work up in search of a shallow 2 finger pocket hidden in the moss. The hollow flake top will probably pop off soon enough solidifying a V3 grading.

FA: Aidan..., 14 Feb

Stand start with slabby smear feet. follow the obvious line up. FA in runners.

FA: Aidan..., 9 Feb

The slabby down climb. In runners the ascent might just qualify for a VB-. Be sure to check if there is some vodka stashed under the block on top.

FA: Aidan..., 9 Feb

The cleanest line on this rock, this project has the potential to be an excellent line. Intended as a stand start on opposing side pull crimps and super obvious foot hold. Move left around the buldge to link onto XA for the top out.

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